i just had my 95 suburban checked out thoroughly. its a good runner with not much major work needed.
i didnt pay much for it , and just bought it, so i expect to put a little money into it.
my brakes are the only thing i need done. here is what i need: 3 brake hoses, 1 drum, 4 tire rods and sleeves, 4 balljoints, 1 idler arm, and 1 pitmen arm.
the brakes arent giving me trouble and i thought it was just the pads need changing. now when i stop sometimes, they squeak, just a little. also the wheel in the rear locks up real quick when i hit the brakes. i have no other problems.
i am getting all this done, but not at once. i have to do whats more important first. what should i get changed first?
I need some help with my brakes..... please?
you need more than brake work. the brake work is the most important because it's a safety issue. but the other stuff has to do with steering and can also lead to accidents.
I need some help with my brakes..... please?
Quote: %26quot;also the wheel in the rear locks up real quick when I hit the brakes.%26quot;
Check both rear brakes for a leaking wheel cylinder. Leaking wheel cylinders flow brake fluid on to the rear shoes causing grabbing or locking brakes.
1. replace leaking wheel cylinders...
2. replace brake pads and shoes as needed...
3. tackle frontend work ball joints, tie-rod ends, et cetera...
Does this help any?
Friday, 7 October 2011
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
I am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum puller
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum puller
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Do you have to oil them??
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
never put oil on the brake drums or brake shoes.
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Oh my lord !! Who told you to oil the drums and shoes ? He oughtta be slapped for trying to get you killed !! Did he tell you to check your flasher fluid, your muffler bearings, your high-speed lock-washer indicator adjustment locator screw too ??? I hope you are NOWHERE around me when yer driving !
There is no such term as brake oil. Brake fluid yes, but that's for the reservoir, and the brake lines to the calipers, and wheel cylinders. To put a lubricant on the certain areas of pads, and shoes, you can use lithium grease, sparingly.
none, just some lube on the backing plates where the shoe's contact ( the small flat spots on the plate only)
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
never put oil on the brake drums or brake shoes.
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Oh my lord !! Who told you to oil the drums and shoes ? He oughtta be slapped for trying to get you killed !! Did he tell you to check your flasher fluid, your muffler bearings, your high-speed lock-washer indicator adjustment locator screw too ??? I hope you are NOWHERE around me when yer driving !
There is no such term as brake oil. Brake fluid yes, but that's for the reservoir, and the brake lines to the calipers, and wheel cylinders. To put a lubricant on the certain areas of pads, and shoes, you can use lithium grease, sparingly.
none, just some lube on the backing plates where the shoe's contact ( the small flat spots on the plate only)
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
hi,
i have a 93 toyota corolla with front disk brakes and rear drum breakes. i just changed the rear brakes and got the front brakes services.
now when ever i brake on high speed some kind of noise (like scratching or some thing hitting something) came from passenger front side.
the streeing wheel also shakes while braking.
an other thing. i feel kind of echo sound (woo, woo) while driving above 100 KM/H.
before changing the brakes and front end service brakes these problems were not there
pls advise what to do
thaks
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
You could have a pad sticking and it is heating up. When you apply your break it applies uneven pressure onto the pads and it could be causing the noise.
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
i own a repair shop,and to me it sounds like you have a warped rotor on it,and that would seem impossible ,considering that you just had them done,but that's what it sounds like,they may have actually turned a rotor down to far on it or goofed up when turning it,and got it out of round,id take it back,because its not supposed to sound like that at all,it should be really smooth,and quiet when braking,so id take this back to them,and tell them to fix it,you done paid for it once,and there's no sense in paying again to get it repaired,i have seen some shops make brakes worse than they was,and this sounds like what may have happened to you this time,but take it back,money is too hard to come by to let this one go,good luck i hope this helps.
the front brakes were service??? what the hell does that mean?? they charged you for that bud ? ether the front brake pads are bad or there not, there's nothing in between!!!
all rotors and drums need to be turn to make them round again so when you hit the brake the car does not shake..
have them double check there work they are guaranteed .....
Sounds like they need to be bled, did you bleed them after replacing the rear drums?
sounds like your wheel bearing is making the noise i would bring this car back to where you serviced it
i have a 93 toyota corolla with front disk brakes and rear drum breakes. i just changed the rear brakes and got the front brakes services.
now when ever i brake on high speed some kind of noise (like scratching or some thing hitting something) came from passenger front side.
the streeing wheel also shakes while braking.
an other thing. i feel kind of echo sound (woo, woo) while driving above 100 KM/H.
before changing the brakes and front end service brakes these problems were not there
pls advise what to do
thaks
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
You could have a pad sticking and it is heating up. When you apply your break it applies uneven pressure onto the pads and it could be causing the noise.
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
i own a repair shop,and to me it sounds like you have a warped rotor on it,and that would seem impossible ,considering that you just had them done,but that's what it sounds like,they may have actually turned a rotor down to far on it or goofed up when turning it,and got it out of round,id take it back,because its not supposed to sound like that at all,it should be really smooth,and quiet when braking,so id take this back to them,and tell them to fix it,you done paid for it once,and there's no sense in paying again to get it repaired,i have seen some shops make brakes worse than they was,and this sounds like what may have happened to you this time,but take it back,money is too hard to come by to let this one go,good luck i hope this helps.
the front brakes were service??? what the hell does that mean?? they charged you for that bud ? ether the front brake pads are bad or there not, there's nothing in between!!!
all rotors and drums need to be turn to make them round again so when you hit the brake the car does not shake..
have them double check there work they are guaranteed .....
Sounds like they need to be bled, did you bleed them after replacing the rear drums?
sounds like your wheel bearing is making the noise i would bring this car back to where you serviced it
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
I have a red brake light on i just had my rear brakes changed but the light is still on what makes that light go on? i cant seem to find anything around the drum or brake shoes wear would the sensor be or what would set it off how can i fix this?
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
sensor is usually on the master cylinder and is telling you you have low fluid check that
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
An '83 Ram PU isn't going to have a low fluid level warning light. That's just the normal brake warning light, which is triggered by a sensor in your proportioning valve (a little metal block that the 2 lines from the master go into, and then 3-4 lines come out to the wheels, just below the master). It shows that there is some sort of an imbalance in pressure between the 2 brake circuits. A lot of times it will be on after a brake job because the wheel cylinders got pushed back in to make room for the new shoes. It will usually go out after you press the brake pedal a few times. If not, it could be that the proportioning valve needs to be reset, or the wheel cylinders started leaking when they were pushed in. Normally, it will come on if you have a fluid leak, air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder plunger.creating file msdn
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
sensor is usually on the master cylinder and is telling you you have low fluid check that
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
An '83 Ram PU isn't going to have a low fluid level warning light. That's just the normal brake warning light, which is triggered by a sensor in your proportioning valve (a little metal block that the 2 lines from the master go into, and then 3-4 lines come out to the wheels, just below the master). It shows that there is some sort of an imbalance in pressure between the 2 brake circuits. A lot of times it will be on after a brake job because the wheel cylinders got pushed back in to make room for the new shoes. It will usually go out after you press the brake pedal a few times. If not, it could be that the proportioning valve needs to be reset, or the wheel cylinders started leaking when they were pushed in. Normally, it will come on if you have a fluid leak, air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder plunger.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Doesn't this have disk brakes on the back too? Rotors and pads are easy fairly to change.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Find a good independent shop, that specializes in european cars. Hard to give you advice on what shop, since you don't give your general location.
I have a VW New Beetle, so I know.
This thing, you can do in your driveway.
The only tool you may not have is the calipher tool to rotate the back caliphers to install back brake pads. That you can loan from autozone. You can get more info on online forums like www.newbeetle.org or a passat forum.
To save $$$, you can buy the parts yourself, and just have them installed by the garage.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
why do you need to change the drums ? , Surely there are plenty of shadetree mechanics around, ask one of them to do it, and for how much
i'm not sure whether you are talking front or rear as pads arein front with roters/discs. drums are in back with shoes. that said, if in front it is best to change the rotors with the pads. ask for the cheapest. pads you will find different qualitys for your driving habits. a cheap pad if you are severe on brakes will not be the best deal. shoes in the back may be replaced with the cheaper makes as they usually last a long time. inspect the drums before deciding to replace. if all goes well you should not pay more than 1 hour labor. ask friends for a reliable garage or backyard mecano. you get what you pay for and its your life.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Find a good independent shop, that specializes in european cars. Hard to give you advice on what shop, since you don't give your general location.
I have a VW New Beetle, so I know.
This thing, you can do in your driveway.
The only tool you may not have is the calipher tool to rotate the back caliphers to install back brake pads. That you can loan from autozone. You can get more info on online forums like www.newbeetle.org or a passat forum.
To save $$$, you can buy the parts yourself, and just have them installed by the garage.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
why do you need to change the drums ? , Surely there are plenty of shadetree mechanics around, ask one of them to do it, and for how much
i'm not sure whether you are talking front or rear as pads arein front with roters/discs. drums are in back with shoes. that said, if in front it is best to change the rotors with the pads. ask for the cheapest. pads you will find different qualitys for your driving habits. a cheap pad if you are severe on brakes will not be the best deal. shoes in the back may be replaced with the cheaper makes as they usually last a long time. inspect the drums before deciding to replace. if all goes well you should not pay more than 1 hour labor. ask friends for a reliable garage or backyard mecano. you get what you pay for and its your life.
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
changing over from a auto to a t-5 5 speed. using 70 torino pedal assembly going into auto drum brake ps car no pb
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
Yes as long as you have all the parts from the torino to include what bolts up to the motor and the body.The lower rod should have the
adjuster while you have it off unscrew it along with the lock nut wire brush the threads light coat of grease reinstall.If your top rod has ajustment do the same to it.Not sure on that model
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
did ford even make a Cougar with a stik ?in 70. use a measure . you may have to go older or a different car. you will no doubt be making your own brackets or modifying what you get. i would check with junk yard cross reference...
should but might make right part for car if not even a ford truck might work same years of any ford might
Yes, I believe so.
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
Yes as long as you have all the parts from the torino to include what bolts up to the motor and the body.The lower rod should have the
adjuster while you have it off unscrew it along with the lock nut wire brush the threads light coat of grease reinstall.If your top rod has ajustment do the same to it.Not sure on that model
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
did ford even make a Cougar with a stik ?in 70. use a measure . you may have to go older or a different car. you will no doubt be making your own brackets or modifying what you get. i would check with junk yard cross reference...
should but might make right part for car if not even a ford truck might work same years of any ford might
Yes, I believe so.
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