i just had my 95 suburban checked out thoroughly. its a good runner with not much major work needed.
i didnt pay much for it , and just bought it, so i expect to put a little money into it.
my brakes are the only thing i need done. here is what i need: 3 brake hoses, 1 drum, 4 tire rods and sleeves, 4 balljoints, 1 idler arm, and 1 pitmen arm.
the brakes arent giving me trouble and i thought it was just the pads need changing. now when i stop sometimes, they squeak, just a little. also the wheel in the rear locks up real quick when i hit the brakes. i have no other problems.
i am getting all this done, but not at once. i have to do whats more important first. what should i get changed first?
I need some help with my brakes..... please?
you need more than brake work. the brake work is the most important because it's a safety issue. but the other stuff has to do with steering and can also lead to accidents.
I need some help with my brakes..... please?
Quote: %26quot;also the wheel in the rear locks up real quick when I hit the brakes.%26quot;
Check both rear brakes for a leaking wheel cylinder. Leaking wheel cylinders flow brake fluid on to the rear shoes causing grabbing or locking brakes.
1. replace leaking wheel cylinders...
2. replace brake pads and shoes as needed...
3. tackle frontend work ball joints, tie-rod ends, et cetera...
Does this help any?
Friday, 7 October 2011
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
I am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum puller
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum puller
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Do you have to oil them??
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
never put oil on the brake drums or brake shoes.
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Oh my lord !! Who told you to oil the drums and shoes ? He oughtta be slapped for trying to get you killed !! Did he tell you to check your flasher fluid, your muffler bearings, your high-speed lock-washer indicator adjustment locator screw too ??? I hope you are NOWHERE around me when yer driving !
There is no such term as brake oil. Brake fluid yes, but that's for the reservoir, and the brake lines to the calipers, and wheel cylinders. To put a lubricant on the certain areas of pads, and shoes, you can use lithium grease, sparingly.
none, just some lube on the backing plates where the shoe's contact ( the small flat spots on the plate only)
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
never put oil on the brake drums or brake shoes.
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Oh my lord !! Who told you to oil the drums and shoes ? He oughtta be slapped for trying to get you killed !! Did he tell you to check your flasher fluid, your muffler bearings, your high-speed lock-washer indicator adjustment locator screw too ??? I hope you are NOWHERE around me when yer driving !
There is no such term as brake oil. Brake fluid yes, but that's for the reservoir, and the brake lines to the calipers, and wheel cylinders. To put a lubricant on the certain areas of pads, and shoes, you can use lithium grease, sparingly.
none, just some lube on the backing plates where the shoe's contact ( the small flat spots on the plate only)
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
hi,
i have a 93 toyota corolla with front disk brakes and rear drum breakes. i just changed the rear brakes and got the front brakes services.
now when ever i brake on high speed some kind of noise (like scratching or some thing hitting something) came from passenger front side.
the streeing wheel also shakes while braking.
an other thing. i feel kind of echo sound (woo, woo) while driving above 100 KM/H.
before changing the brakes and front end service brakes these problems were not there
pls advise what to do
thaks
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
You could have a pad sticking and it is heating up. When you apply your break it applies uneven pressure onto the pads and it could be causing the noise.
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
i own a repair shop,and to me it sounds like you have a warped rotor on it,and that would seem impossible ,considering that you just had them done,but that's what it sounds like,they may have actually turned a rotor down to far on it or goofed up when turning it,and got it out of round,id take it back,because its not supposed to sound like that at all,it should be really smooth,and quiet when braking,so id take this back to them,and tell them to fix it,you done paid for it once,and there's no sense in paying again to get it repaired,i have seen some shops make brakes worse than they was,and this sounds like what may have happened to you this time,but take it back,money is too hard to come by to let this one go,good luck i hope this helps.
the front brakes were service??? what the hell does that mean?? they charged you for that bud ? ether the front brake pads are bad or there not, there's nothing in between!!!
all rotors and drums need to be turn to make them round again so when you hit the brake the car does not shake..
have them double check there work they are guaranteed .....
Sounds like they need to be bled, did you bleed them after replacing the rear drums?
sounds like your wheel bearing is making the noise i would bring this car back to where you serviced it
i have a 93 toyota corolla with front disk brakes and rear drum breakes. i just changed the rear brakes and got the front brakes services.
now when ever i brake on high speed some kind of noise (like scratching or some thing hitting something) came from passenger front side.
the streeing wheel also shakes while braking.
an other thing. i feel kind of echo sound (woo, woo) while driving above 100 KM/H.
before changing the brakes and front end service brakes these problems were not there
pls advise what to do
thaks
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
You could have a pad sticking and it is heating up. When you apply your break it applies uneven pressure onto the pads and it could be causing the noise.
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
i own a repair shop,and to me it sounds like you have a warped rotor on it,and that would seem impossible ,considering that you just had them done,but that's what it sounds like,they may have actually turned a rotor down to far on it or goofed up when turning it,and got it out of round,id take it back,because its not supposed to sound like that at all,it should be really smooth,and quiet when braking,so id take this back to them,and tell them to fix it,you done paid for it once,and there's no sense in paying again to get it repaired,i have seen some shops make brakes worse than they was,and this sounds like what may have happened to you this time,but take it back,money is too hard to come by to let this one go,good luck i hope this helps.
the front brakes were service??? what the hell does that mean?? they charged you for that bud ? ether the front brake pads are bad or there not, there's nothing in between!!!
all rotors and drums need to be turn to make them round again so when you hit the brake the car does not shake..
have them double check there work they are guaranteed .....
Sounds like they need to be bled, did you bleed them after replacing the rear drums?
sounds like your wheel bearing is making the noise i would bring this car back to where you serviced it
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
I have a red brake light on i just had my rear brakes changed but the light is still on what makes that light go on? i cant seem to find anything around the drum or brake shoes wear would the sensor be or what would set it off how can i fix this?
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
sensor is usually on the master cylinder and is telling you you have low fluid check that
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
An '83 Ram PU isn't going to have a low fluid level warning light. That's just the normal brake warning light, which is triggered by a sensor in your proportioning valve (a little metal block that the 2 lines from the master go into, and then 3-4 lines come out to the wheels, just below the master). It shows that there is some sort of an imbalance in pressure between the 2 brake circuits. A lot of times it will be on after a brake job because the wheel cylinders got pushed back in to make room for the new shoes. It will usually go out after you press the brake pedal a few times. If not, it could be that the proportioning valve needs to be reset, or the wheel cylinders started leaking when they were pushed in. Normally, it will come on if you have a fluid leak, air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder plunger.creating file msdn
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
sensor is usually on the master cylinder and is telling you you have low fluid check that
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
An '83 Ram PU isn't going to have a low fluid level warning light. That's just the normal brake warning light, which is triggered by a sensor in your proportioning valve (a little metal block that the 2 lines from the master go into, and then 3-4 lines come out to the wheels, just below the master). It shows that there is some sort of an imbalance in pressure between the 2 brake circuits. A lot of times it will be on after a brake job because the wheel cylinders got pushed back in to make room for the new shoes. It will usually go out after you press the brake pedal a few times. If not, it could be that the proportioning valve needs to be reset, or the wheel cylinders started leaking when they were pushed in. Normally, it will come on if you have a fluid leak, air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder plunger.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Doesn't this have disk brakes on the back too? Rotors and pads are easy fairly to change.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Find a good independent shop, that specializes in european cars. Hard to give you advice on what shop, since you don't give your general location.
I have a VW New Beetle, so I know.
This thing, you can do in your driveway.
The only tool you may not have is the calipher tool to rotate the back caliphers to install back brake pads. That you can loan from autozone. You can get more info on online forums like www.newbeetle.org or a passat forum.
To save $$$, you can buy the parts yourself, and just have them installed by the garage.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
why do you need to change the drums ? , Surely there are plenty of shadetree mechanics around, ask one of them to do it, and for how much
i'm not sure whether you are talking front or rear as pads arein front with roters/discs. drums are in back with shoes. that said, if in front it is best to change the rotors with the pads. ask for the cheapest. pads you will find different qualitys for your driving habits. a cheap pad if you are severe on brakes will not be the best deal. shoes in the back may be replaced with the cheaper makes as they usually last a long time. inspect the drums before deciding to replace. if all goes well you should not pay more than 1 hour labor. ask friends for a reliable garage or backyard mecano. you get what you pay for and its your life.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Find a good independent shop, that specializes in european cars. Hard to give you advice on what shop, since you don't give your general location.
I have a VW New Beetle, so I know.
This thing, you can do in your driveway.
The only tool you may not have is the calipher tool to rotate the back caliphers to install back brake pads. That you can loan from autozone. You can get more info on online forums like www.newbeetle.org or a passat forum.
To save $$$, you can buy the parts yourself, and just have them installed by the garage.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
why do you need to change the drums ? , Surely there are plenty of shadetree mechanics around, ask one of them to do it, and for how much
i'm not sure whether you are talking front or rear as pads arein front with roters/discs. drums are in back with shoes. that said, if in front it is best to change the rotors with the pads. ask for the cheapest. pads you will find different qualitys for your driving habits. a cheap pad if you are severe on brakes will not be the best deal. shoes in the back may be replaced with the cheaper makes as they usually last a long time. inspect the drums before deciding to replace. if all goes well you should not pay more than 1 hour labor. ask friends for a reliable garage or backyard mecano. you get what you pay for and its your life.
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
changing over from a auto to a t-5 5 speed. using 70 torino pedal assembly going into auto drum brake ps car no pb
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
Yes as long as you have all the parts from the torino to include what bolts up to the motor and the body.The lower rod should have the
adjuster while you have it off unscrew it along with the lock nut wire brush the threads light coat of grease reinstall.If your top rod has ajustment do the same to it.Not sure on that model
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
did ford even make a Cougar with a stik ?in 70. use a measure . you may have to go older or a different car. you will no doubt be making your own brackets or modifying what you get. i would check with junk yard cross reference...
should but might make right part for car if not even a ford truck might work same years of any ford might
Yes, I believe so.
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
Yes as long as you have all the parts from the torino to include what bolts up to the motor and the body.The lower rod should have the
adjuster while you have it off unscrew it along with the lock nut wire brush the threads light coat of grease reinstall.If your top rod has ajustment do the same to it.Not sure on that model
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
did ford even make a Cougar with a stik ?in 70. use a measure . you may have to go older or a different car. you will no doubt be making your own brackets or modifying what you get. i would check with junk yard cross reference...
should but might make right part for car if not even a ford truck might work same years of any ford might
Yes, I believe so.
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
go to the dealer and have them fix it
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
If you aren't familiar with standard drum brake service, then I would recommend either purchasing a service manual for the car, or taking it in for service. There are too many possible details to cover here without having a lot of liability, so the service manual is a good cheap place to start.
Are you just wanting to check the brakes, or did someone tell you that they need to be changed? They typically aren't that hard to remove unless they've been on for a long time. Sometimes they rust to the center hub, and also sometimes a ridge of rust can form on the back outer lip preventing them from clearing the shoes. For this the shoes need to be retracted - again, see the service manual, or let a trained technician do the job.
Where I am, brake work can only legally be done by the vehicle owner, or a licensed technician.
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
does any one else hate this Lamborghini guy what a douche bag
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
If you aren't familiar with standard drum brake service, then I would recommend either purchasing a service manual for the car, or taking it in for service. There are too many possible details to cover here without having a lot of liability, so the service manual is a good cheap place to start.
Are you just wanting to check the brakes, or did someone tell you that they need to be changed? They typically aren't that hard to remove unless they've been on for a long time. Sometimes they rust to the center hub, and also sometimes a ridge of rust can form on the back outer lip preventing them from clearing the shoes. For this the shoes need to be retracted - again, see the service manual, or let a trained technician do the job.
Where I am, brake work can only legally be done by the vehicle owner, or a licensed technician.
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
does any one else hate this Lamborghini guy what a douche bag
Brakes squeal when there hot ...?
i have a 1990 Buick lesabre. i recently changes my brake pads and found out later the mechanic that put them in twisted the hose line so there was no brake fluid going threw. so i took it to a different mechanic and he just sprayed the pads with something and then SPRAYED MY ROTORS WITH WD/40. none of that was any good and a few people told me the guy was an idiot. i guess spraying the rotors was bad. so then i take it to another mechanic and he said my brake pedal felt spongy and he heard clicking when braking. so he said he turned the rotors greased the pads and drums and bled the brakes. well that was a waste of time and money because they still squeal. when i start driving in the morning after the car has been sitting all night the brakes don't make any noise when i brake but after driving a little while they slowly start to squeal and by the time i make it back home my brakes sound like school bus. i have told every mechanic this and every time i bring it in they do different stuff and charge me an arm n leg and its still not fixed . i don't know what to do or what is the problem. maybe if i knew what was causing the squeal i could tell them exactly what to do. instead of getting jerked around. if someone can help me with some advice or what to do i or what it could be i would greatly appreciate it =)
Brakes squeal when there hot ...?
I would say to fix your problem is to get new calipers and rotors and put on if your problem is in the front disc brake set up.I work on brakes and I have never heard of these type of stupid tricks people put on other people like this while working on there cars.If I was there I would be willing to fix it right.I have never heard of anyone placing WD 40 on rotors unless they are just spraying the studs to mount the tire back on and to make it easier for the lug nuts to go back on.Is the noise coming from the front or the back brakes?.But there is a spray that is to be used for cleaning the brake pads which is called brak-leen this is to remove build up of glaze on the pads and brake shoes and rotors and drums.Did they do a over haul job on the back wheel cylinders or replace them?.I would really like to know what was really done.if you could email me with other question or what you know other than what is on here about it I could help you.Too bad I wasnt there i would fix them.Thanks! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Brakes squeal when there hot ...?
I would say to fix your problem is to get new calipers and rotors and put on if your problem is in the front disc brake set up.I work on brakes and I have never heard of these type of stupid tricks people put on other people like this while working on there cars.If I was there I would be willing to fix it right.I have never heard of anyone placing WD 40 on rotors unless they are just spraying the studs to mount the tire back on and to make it easier for the lug nuts to go back on.Is the noise coming from the front or the back brakes?.But there is a spray that is to be used for cleaning the brake pads which is called brak-leen this is to remove build up of glaze on the pads and brake shoes and rotors and drums.Did they do a over haul job on the back wheel cylinders or replace them?.I would really like to know what was really done.if you could email me with other question or what you know other than what is on here about it I could help you.Too bad I wasnt there i would fix them.Thanks! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
I HAVE A 62 IMPALA THAT WAS WEARING A TIRE ON ONE SIDE, SHOP SAID NEEDED NEW UPPER BALL JOINTS... I CHANGED THOSE AND THE LOWER BALL JOINTS, HAD IT ALIGNED AND NOW THE FRONT END SHAKES WHEN I STOP?? BEFORE ANYTHING WAS WORKED ON IT DROVE PERFECTLY. ??
I ALSO HAVE A 64 IMPALA THAT HADNT BEEN DRIVEN IN 20+ YEARS SO I CHANGED DRUMS AND BRAKES AND THIS ONE SHAKES AS I STOP AS WELL...
ANY HELP??
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
shocks/springs, both tires, a-arm bushings etc, bearings???
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
There probably two diffrent problems. master cylinder problem or a valve problem would be my guess
If the shaking only occurs when you attempt to stop the vehicle then it is usually from warped brake rotors. Also your brake caliper piston might need to be re-honed if the piston is coming out crooked.
you might wanna get the whole steering and suspension checked out because that will cause it to do that. the 62 might have warped brake parts that will cause it to do that, and the 64 might have the steering and suspension problems or vise versa
all of the above plus front brakes itself. rotor turned when front brake job was done?new hair styles Fish
I ALSO HAVE A 64 IMPALA THAT HADNT BEEN DRIVEN IN 20+ YEARS SO I CHANGED DRUMS AND BRAKES AND THIS ONE SHAKES AS I STOP AS WELL...
ANY HELP??
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
shocks/springs, both tires, a-arm bushings etc, bearings???
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
There probably two diffrent problems. master cylinder problem or a valve problem would be my guess
If the shaking only occurs when you attempt to stop the vehicle then it is usually from warped brake rotors. Also your brake caliper piston might need to be re-honed if the piston is coming out crooked.
you might wanna get the whole steering and suspension checked out because that will cause it to do that. the 62 might have warped brake parts that will cause it to do that, and the 64 might have the steering and suspension problems or vise versa
all of the above plus front brakes itself. rotor turned when front brake job was done?
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
Ive just had the front brake pads and discs changed wich made the ABS light go off, but now theres a red circle with a line on either side. Ive had the back drums changed too. Could this be the brake light sensor? if so, will it fail the MOT?
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
there is a sensor on the front left and right rear they should have been change try this get in leave driver door open hold brake turn key dont start keep brake down if they sensors were replaced it should clear in about a min or so if not cut the end off and twist the wires together they will skweeek bad when there low you dont need sensors
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
It is recommended to change the brake sensors anytime you change the brake pads.
New Sensors should have been put on.
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
there is a sensor on the front left and right rear they should have been change try this get in leave driver door open hold brake turn key dont start keep brake down if they sensors were replaced it should clear in about a min or so if not cut the end off and twist the wires together they will skweeek bad when there low you dont need sensors
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
It is recommended to change the brake sensors anytime you change the brake pads.
New Sensors should have been put on.
I think i need a brake change please help.?
Just recently my car brakes started to squeak. Ive had those brakes for about a year and six months. I dont know if the brakes have dust in them, i dont know. It only squeaks when i slightly press the brake, when i press it all the way its all good. If i do need this brake change how difficult is it to do it your self, i have never changed brakes my self, but i did rebuild a top end of a AMC and made it run again. I have front disk brakes and drums in the back. what kind of brake pads should i get, cause iam getting them from auto zone, and the prices very bettween diffrent brands, $35 is the most ill pay for a pair of brake pads. so which ones should i get, what do i need to keep in mind. thank you for all your help
I think i need a brake change please help.?
OK it sounds like it's about time, dust is a factor but after 20 months it's time. %26quot;Bendix or Raybestes%26quot; are your best bet and you may get another 16 to 20 months. With the rotors and drums if you run a finger nail across the surface and it gets caught or really feels rough they need to be turned, turning the drums and rotors will make the brake shoes and pads last longer. Yes get the %26quot;Auto Repair Manual%26quot; for your car to help you with the job the first time or 2. Good Luck and take it slow the first time or 2.
I think i need a brake change please help.?
mate. there's usually inspection slots in the caliber so go look at the pad thickness.
get Bendix brand,, the best is the only way to go with your brakes. I get mine from Advance Auto.
You get what you pay for, get the cheap ones and they blow out black dust and squeal like a retarded pig..... get the better pads, ceramic are the best. They are easy to change, you will need to buy a C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper for the disc brakes.
You do not know what the problem is and do not know how to do it. Yet you want to fix it your self for $35. I am glad I do not live in Long Beach.
Hey: We mechanic need to make a living too.
Well for starters you get what you pay for. Pads will range anywhere from 6.00 to 60.00. They have the regular elcheapo and then they have extreme duty. You asked a question that leaves a lot of questions open. You need to go somewhere and get a free brake check. There are a number of things that could be making the pads squeak besides actually needing to replace them. You mentioned dust that is one thing. Stuck caliper will give that effect also. Dry slides. Broken anti squeaker. I have even had a bad hose cause that effect. How old is the car.
Yeah, you can do it ,but you might want to buy a Haynes repair manual for your car. It will tell you what, if any ,special tools you will need.
Get the middle priced set of pads and be sure to apply the anti squeal paste or the plastic shims that come with them.
DON'T use a bumper jack or the jack that came with your car unless you place it on stands . Be safe, don't get under ANY car if it's not on stands.
It depends, how hard are you on your breaks? If you ease into everything, they may just be glazed over. If this is the problem, a spin on a grinding wheel should do the trick. As for difficulty, disc breaks are easier to change and drums are a little more complicated.
get semi -metallic pads and shoes about 20.00 ea set The sound you hear by that description is that of the early warning device on the pads to tell you that the pads are ready to be changed-- its a piece of metal that makes a noise because it touches the rotor first when the pads are worn. as for the work it is fair but the trick is that you need some specialty tools ie brake spring pliers, brake spoon, hex or torques wrench/socket 6%26quot; c-clamp and you have to run the rotors and drums down some where to get them cut in the back take both drums off but only change one set of shoes at a time so you can look at the other side if you get lost If you have abs most of them dont like having the fluid pushed back into the master cylinder so you have to clamp the line open the bleeder screw to push the caliper back if you do it yourself get a book hope this helps
I think i need a brake change please help.?
OK it sounds like it's about time, dust is a factor but after 20 months it's time. %26quot;Bendix or Raybestes%26quot; are your best bet and you may get another 16 to 20 months. With the rotors and drums if you run a finger nail across the surface and it gets caught or really feels rough they need to be turned, turning the drums and rotors will make the brake shoes and pads last longer. Yes get the %26quot;Auto Repair Manual%26quot; for your car to help you with the job the first time or 2. Good Luck and take it slow the first time or 2.
I think i need a brake change please help.?
mate. there's usually inspection slots in the caliber so go look at the pad thickness.
get Bendix brand,, the best is the only way to go with your brakes. I get mine from Advance Auto.
You get what you pay for, get the cheap ones and they blow out black dust and squeal like a retarded pig..... get the better pads, ceramic are the best. They are easy to change, you will need to buy a C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper for the disc brakes.
You do not know what the problem is and do not know how to do it. Yet you want to fix it your self for $35. I am glad I do not live in Long Beach.
Hey: We mechanic need to make a living too.
Well for starters you get what you pay for. Pads will range anywhere from 6.00 to 60.00. They have the regular elcheapo and then they have extreme duty. You asked a question that leaves a lot of questions open. You need to go somewhere and get a free brake check. There are a number of things that could be making the pads squeak besides actually needing to replace them. You mentioned dust that is one thing. Stuck caliper will give that effect also. Dry slides. Broken anti squeaker. I have even had a bad hose cause that effect. How old is the car.
Yeah, you can do it ,but you might want to buy a Haynes repair manual for your car. It will tell you what, if any ,special tools you will need.
Get the middle priced set of pads and be sure to apply the anti squeal paste or the plastic shims that come with them.
DON'T use a bumper jack or the jack that came with your car unless you place it on stands . Be safe, don't get under ANY car if it's not on stands.
It depends, how hard are you on your breaks? If you ease into everything, they may just be glazed over. If this is the problem, a spin on a grinding wheel should do the trick. As for difficulty, disc breaks are easier to change and drums are a little more complicated.
get semi -metallic pads and shoes about 20.00 ea set The sound you hear by that description is that of the early warning device on the pads to tell you that the pads are ready to be changed-- its a piece of metal that makes a noise because it touches the rotor first when the pads are worn. as for the work it is fair but the trick is that you need some specialty tools ie brake spring pliers, brake spoon, hex or torques wrench/socket 6%26quot; c-clamp and you have to run the rotors and drums down some where to get them cut in the back take both drums off but only change one set of shoes at a time so you can look at the other side if you get lost If you have abs most of them dont like having the fluid pushed back into the master cylinder so you have to clamp the line open the bleeder screw to push the caliper back if you do it yourself get a book hope this helps
Worn rear brakes?
How do I change the rear brakes on a 86 Honda Rebel, it has a rear drum and I wonder if it is possible to change the brake shoes without removing the wheel.
If I have to remove the wheel, how do you do that, I mean, how do you lift the rear end of the bike?
Worn rear brakes?
The rear wheel has to be removed to change the brakes.
Put the side stand down.
Put a floor jack under the frame at the right front foot peg (or a little more to the rear) to get the rear wheel off of the ground.
http://www.dansmc.com/rear_wheels.htm
Any questions - just ask.
Worn rear brakes?
save yourself a headache and bring it somewhere
If you dont know how I would take it to a friend or to a motorcylcle shop and they should have some tips on how to change the brakes. Good luck
You have to jack it up at the frame in front of the wheel.A motrocycle jack is best.The wheel does have to come off so make sure you jack it up enough to get the wheel out.Once you get it up take off the brake rod loosen the axle,take the chain off the rear sprocket,pull the axle and comes right out.The brake hub slides right out of the wheel.It's not a hard job just be carefull not to let your bike fall on you...Ride safe,there's stupid people on the road.
I would strongly suggest buying a repair manual. It will clearly show and tell how to perform this operation. Brakes are serious business. They are not hard to repair, but they must be done right.
No-one has done brake work on any of my vehicles or cycles except me. I trust myself. Also, I will not work on another person's brakes. I don't want the liability. Which, actually, is why you did not get an answer from me.
any serious biker should know something about their machine.take firecrackers advice and purchase a good shop manual, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
If I have to remove the wheel, how do you do that, I mean, how do you lift the rear end of the bike?
Worn rear brakes?
The rear wheel has to be removed to change the brakes.
Put the side stand down.
Put a floor jack under the frame at the right front foot peg (or a little more to the rear) to get the rear wheel off of the ground.
http://www.dansmc.com/rear_wheels.htm
Any questions - just ask.
Worn rear brakes?
save yourself a headache and bring it somewhere
If you dont know how I would take it to a friend or to a motorcylcle shop and they should have some tips on how to change the brakes. Good luck
You have to jack it up at the frame in front of the wheel.A motrocycle jack is best.The wheel does have to come off so make sure you jack it up enough to get the wheel out.Once you get it up take off the brake rod loosen the axle,take the chain off the rear sprocket,pull the axle and comes right out.The brake hub slides right out of the wheel.It's not a hard job just be carefull not to let your bike fall on you...Ride safe,there's stupid people on the road.
I would strongly suggest buying a repair manual. It will clearly show and tell how to perform this operation. Brakes are serious business. They are not hard to repair, but they must be done right.
No-one has done brake work on any of my vehicles or cycles except me. I trust myself. Also, I will not work on another person's brakes. I don't want the liability. Which, actually, is why you did not get an answer from me.
any serious biker should know something about their machine.take firecrackers advice and purchase a good shop manual, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
Corolla spongy brakes?
i just changed the front disc brake pads and rotors on my 2000 corolla and the mechanic said the rear drums still have 45% left on them so i didn't have the rear changed. I'm not exactly sure if this problem was present before the brake change or not but i noticed that my brake is really spongy and i have to press it about 90% down to get a good brake response and after 90% it is really stiff and makes it hard for me to judge how hard i am braking before locking the wheels. This is important cause my car lacks ABS. I have heard that changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines helps my brakes be more sharper and less spongy but my receipt from the brake job indicates that they did change the brake fluid and did bleed the lines!? so im wondering whether i should take it to toyota instead and ask them to bleed the line and change the brake fluid or just to ask them to inspect the brakes? i know there is a 80$ diagnostic charge if no problem is found and im wondering whether i should risk it?
Corolla spongy brakes?
just drive it it will get better
Corolla spongy brakes?
whoever changed your brake pads and rotors must have not followed the proper procedure to bleed brakes. OR did it half assed. i suggest taking it back to them, and telling them politely to do it again, or have a technician try and press the brakes and see what he thinks about it. if its obvious to you , it should be obvious to him. if u took it to a good shop, theyll re do it for you at no cost.
you may have air in your brakes system,noot a big deal just bleed the brakes,did you remove a caliper when you did the change,it could also just e the brakes you got,did you go cheap?cause you get what you pay for,
Corolla spongy brakes?
just drive it it will get better
Corolla spongy brakes?
whoever changed your brake pads and rotors must have not followed the proper procedure to bleed brakes. OR did it half assed. i suggest taking it back to them, and telling them politely to do it again, or have a technician try and press the brakes and see what he thinks about it. if its obvious to you , it should be obvious to him. if u took it to a good shop, theyll re do it for you at no cost.
you may have air in your brakes system,noot a big deal just bleed the brakes,did you remove a caliper when you did the change,it could also just e the brakes you got,did you go cheap?cause you get what you pay for,
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
I have a '65 mustang with manual brakes (four drums). Obviously it is an outdated system, however I have had almost no problems out of it.
I was having a discussion with an older guy at work, and was mentioning that when I first get in the car, I usually push the brake pedal in, and let it out to get it 'pumped up', so that if I need to stop suddenly while I am driving, I don't have to worry about the pedal dropping to the floor.
He seemed to be convinced that there was some sort of problem with my brake system, although I have changed all four brake cylinders and the master cylinder. None of the brake lines leak, and I have had no problem with brake power. They will lock up easily if I slam on them, but that is true of every car without ABS.
Is he on crack? (he is kind of a weirdo) Or does it sound like I maybe got a defective master cylinder? I constantly have discussions of this sort with this guy, and he usually comes off as a crackpot.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
If your pedal drops to the floor sometimes and sometimes does not - it's not right. If you don't have leaks, and your hoses are fine, then your master cylinder definitely needs attention.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
Like I said, it doesn't seem to have any problems after that first pump.
I had another guy at work suggest that it might have something to do with the proportional valve, which is the only original part still in the car.
On any car equipped with MANUAL brakes, the pedal will pump up some. This is normal as long as the pedal height stays relatively close to the %26quot;pumped up%26quot; height.
If your brake shoes are out of adjustment, you can have a low pedal with no hydraulic problems. A %26quot;Rule of Thumb%26quot; is for the pedal to be even with the accelerator pedal or slightly above it.
There are circumstances where drum diameter and brake adjustment may cause variance in pedal height. If the fluid is not going down in the master cylinder then it is probably adjustment. If you need to add fluid you have a leak. I have come across bad rebuilds on master cylinders. No leaks found, brakes adjusted correctly, drum diameter within specifications, vacuum bled the hydraulics, emergency brake adjusted correctly, brake HOSES in good condition, and still had the pedal travel BELOW the accelerator pedal. I found that the master cylinder bore allowed fluid to go between the primary and secondary piston cups. %26quot;PEDAL MUST BE EVEN OR ABOVE GAS PEDAL%26quot;.
If your brake pedal does indeed drop to the floor, perhaps your masster cylinder or wheel drums need attention. I have noticed evenon my '91 mustang that it is possible to %26quot;pump them up%26quot; slightely, but i think this is normal. I think that it is pretty normal, but it probably won't drop to the floor. Pumping them before driving can't hurt.
You should not have to pump up your brakes, that is a clear sign that you have air in your system. Do a real good brake bleed, including the new master cylinder and you won't have to pump anymore. I learned a long time ago, when an old guy tells you something like this, it is well worth considering.
It sounds like you definately have air in your lines somewhere. Try bleeding your brakes starting with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the front driver's side. If you have new wheel cylinders, you shouldn't have any problem with the bleeders busting off. Have a partner get in the drivers seat and pump the pedal until stiff and keep foot pressure on it while you crack open a bleeder. Let the fluid squirt out while your partner is letting the pedal go to the floor. Keep pedal to the floor until you tighten the bleeder. Yell up there and tell him (her) to pump it up again. Do that to every wheel and see if you can keep a stiff pedal after finished.
If this fails, you have a leak somewhere...more than likely it is like what you mentioned in your question....a faulty master cylinder or maybe even one of those new wheel cylinders was bad. No, your friend isn't a crack-pot...he makes sense. He is probably just a little weird hahatalk in front of class celeb myspace
I was having a discussion with an older guy at work, and was mentioning that when I first get in the car, I usually push the brake pedal in, and let it out to get it 'pumped up', so that if I need to stop suddenly while I am driving, I don't have to worry about the pedal dropping to the floor.
He seemed to be convinced that there was some sort of problem with my brake system, although I have changed all four brake cylinders and the master cylinder. None of the brake lines leak, and I have had no problem with brake power. They will lock up easily if I slam on them, but that is true of every car without ABS.
Is he on crack? (he is kind of a weirdo) Or does it sound like I maybe got a defective master cylinder? I constantly have discussions of this sort with this guy, and he usually comes off as a crackpot.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
If your pedal drops to the floor sometimes and sometimes does not - it's not right. If you don't have leaks, and your hoses are fine, then your master cylinder definitely needs attention.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
Like I said, it doesn't seem to have any problems after that first pump.
I had another guy at work suggest that it might have something to do with the proportional valve, which is the only original part still in the car.
Report Abuse
On any car equipped with MANUAL brakes, the pedal will pump up some. This is normal as long as the pedal height stays relatively close to the %26quot;pumped up%26quot; height.
If your brake shoes are out of adjustment, you can have a low pedal with no hydraulic problems. A %26quot;Rule of Thumb%26quot; is for the pedal to be even with the accelerator pedal or slightly above it.
There are circumstances where drum diameter and brake adjustment may cause variance in pedal height. If the fluid is not going down in the master cylinder then it is probably adjustment. If you need to add fluid you have a leak. I have come across bad rebuilds on master cylinders. No leaks found, brakes adjusted correctly, drum diameter within specifications, vacuum bled the hydraulics, emergency brake adjusted correctly, brake HOSES in good condition, and still had the pedal travel BELOW the accelerator pedal. I found that the master cylinder bore allowed fluid to go between the primary and secondary piston cups. %26quot;PEDAL MUST BE EVEN OR ABOVE GAS PEDAL%26quot;.
If your brake pedal does indeed drop to the floor, perhaps your masster cylinder or wheel drums need attention. I have noticed evenon my '91 mustang that it is possible to %26quot;pump them up%26quot; slightely, but i think this is normal. I think that it is pretty normal, but it probably won't drop to the floor. Pumping them before driving can't hurt.
You should not have to pump up your brakes, that is a clear sign that you have air in your system. Do a real good brake bleed, including the new master cylinder and you won't have to pump anymore. I learned a long time ago, when an old guy tells you something like this, it is well worth considering.
It sounds like you definately have air in your lines somewhere. Try bleeding your brakes starting with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the front driver's side. If you have new wheel cylinders, you shouldn't have any problem with the bleeders busting off. Have a partner get in the drivers seat and pump the pedal until stiff and keep foot pressure on it while you crack open a bleeder. Let the fluid squirt out while your partner is letting the pedal go to the floor. Keep pedal to the floor until you tighten the bleeder. Yell up there and tell him (her) to pump it up again. Do that to every wheel and see if you can keep a stiff pedal after finished.
If this fails, you have a leak somewhere...more than likely it is like what you mentioned in your question....a faulty master cylinder or maybe even one of those new wheel cylinders was bad. No, your friend isn't a crack-pot...he makes sense. He is probably just a little weird haha
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
I just change out my front brakes from drums to disc, is it nesacery to installe a proportioning valve, or can go with out one??
Its a 1968 ford mustang coupe with 289 automatic.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
Yes!!! You will not have any control over the differences between the front %26amp; rear brakes otherwise. Different distances from the master, etc can cause the rear tires to lock up when you brake.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
you better put one in if you don't want the back end slidding every time you hit the brakes :)
Yes you should . The front disc will grab a lot more then the old drums . Could get wild .
Its a 1968 ford mustang coupe with 289 automatic.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
Yes!!! You will not have any control over the differences between the front %26amp; rear brakes otherwise. Different distances from the master, etc can cause the rear tires to lock up when you brake.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
you better put one in if you don't want the back end slidding every time you hit the brakes :)
Yes you should . The front disc will grab a lot more then the old drums . Could get wild .
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
I got front and rear drums... when i press the pedal it goes mad close to the floor w/o resistance... then the last inch gives resistance and brakes the car.. but when i press really hard... the rear tires lock up if it's wet out... i changed the shoes and bled the brakes but it's still a death machine.. what's the deal
it's a 71 nova btw
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
sounds like the front shoes needs adjusted a little bit tighter against the drums.
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
Did you check the master cylinder ? Did you try pumping the brakes to see if they would hold better ? If so , when pumped and you got a little better pedal did it still go slowly to the floor ? If yes to last question , bad master cylinder . Also look at proportioning valve .
Couple of options.
1.) Leaking brake lines. A cracked brake line will spew out fluid when you press the pedal and the pedal will drop to the floor.
2.) Air in the lines, if you let in air by having low fluid levels the air pocket can be way up the line and you might need to bleed them more.
3.) Failed wheel cylinders. If the wheel cylinder is leaking or has a failed seal it will spew brake fluid and cause the brake to not function and your pedal will drop to the floor.
Sounds like you need to adjust them. If the self adjusters are working properly you can back up and brake hard then go forward and brake. Do this several times (don't hit anything) and they should adjust otherwise you'll need to do it manually.
Car has a %26quot;shuttle valve%26quot; that shuts down one side of %26quot;dual circuit brakes%26quot;! It could be stuck, -- or you could have bad master cylinder, - air in lines, (no fluid), - broken brake line or hose to calipers, -or calipers seized! Years ago cars only had the one circuit system, -- when you lost fluid you had a %26quot;neutral pedal on right side of steering column, -- quite messy if the emergency brake didn't work, or you had an automatic transmission, -- gears slow you down somewhat, and if you have enough space you can shut off the engine and let engine finally stop car! If that doesn't work, find something %26quot;cheap and soft%26quot; to hit! In almost 60 years of driving I have been down that road a number of times!! Actually I drive as if they aren't gong to work anyway, -- my brake pads last in excess of 40,000 miles most of the time! And no I don't drive like %26quot;an old lady%26quot;!!
I naturally assume that you have adjusted the front brake shoes with adjuster at bottom of housing, -- if they have to travel too far, they may be needing more fluid than one push on pedal can move! If you can pump up with for or 5 jabs quickly on brake pedal it is a pretty good indicator that shoes need adjusted!
it's a 71 nova btw
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
sounds like the front shoes needs adjusted a little bit tighter against the drums.
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
Did you check the master cylinder ? Did you try pumping the brakes to see if they would hold better ? If so , when pumped and you got a little better pedal did it still go slowly to the floor ? If yes to last question , bad master cylinder . Also look at proportioning valve .
Couple of options.
1.) Leaking brake lines. A cracked brake line will spew out fluid when you press the pedal and the pedal will drop to the floor.
2.) Air in the lines, if you let in air by having low fluid levels the air pocket can be way up the line and you might need to bleed them more.
3.) Failed wheel cylinders. If the wheel cylinder is leaking or has a failed seal it will spew brake fluid and cause the brake to not function and your pedal will drop to the floor.
Sounds like you need to adjust them. If the self adjusters are working properly you can back up and brake hard then go forward and brake. Do this several times (don't hit anything) and they should adjust otherwise you'll need to do it manually.
Car has a %26quot;shuttle valve%26quot; that shuts down one side of %26quot;dual circuit brakes%26quot;! It could be stuck, -- or you could have bad master cylinder, - air in lines, (no fluid), - broken brake line or hose to calipers, -or calipers seized! Years ago cars only had the one circuit system, -- when you lost fluid you had a %26quot;neutral pedal on right side of steering column, -- quite messy if the emergency brake didn't work, or you had an automatic transmission, -- gears slow you down somewhat, and if you have enough space you can shut off the engine and let engine finally stop car! If that doesn't work, find something %26quot;cheap and soft%26quot; to hit! In almost 60 years of driving I have been down that road a number of times!! Actually I drive as if they aren't gong to work anyway, -- my brake pads last in excess of 40,000 miles most of the time! And no I don't drive like %26quot;an old lady%26quot;!!
I naturally assume that you have adjusted the front brake shoes with adjuster at bottom of housing, -- if they have to travel too far, they may be needing more fluid than one push on pedal can move! If you can pump up with for or 5 jabs quickly on brake pedal it is a pretty good indicator that shoes need adjusted!
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
i change the front and rear brake new pads new shoes turned rotors and turned drums it still crunches at final stop
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
weird that it crunches to a stop after that work (everyting you did was right, new pads and turned rotors) the squeek could be the disc brakes, some cars have a anti squeel pin that go on the pads. not sure on PT Cruiser. make sure your drum pads are on right, little pad goes toward the front of the car. ( check your bearings while you got it jack up )
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
They will take a while to seat so they won't make nise give it some time.
i'd say whoever did them didn't lubricate them correctly
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
weird that it crunches to a stop after that work (everyting you did was right, new pads and turned rotors) the squeek could be the disc brakes, some cars have a anti squeel pin that go on the pads. not sure on PT Cruiser. make sure your drum pads are on right, little pad goes toward the front of the car. ( check your bearings while you got it jack up )
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
They will take a while to seat so they won't make nise give it some time.
i'd say whoever did them didn't lubricate them correctly
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
I have a honda civic 05ex coupe and I want to convert 4 lugs pattern to 5 lugs pattern. I don't know what parts should i get to do it, and I also want to change the front rotor brakes and rear brake ( my rear brakes are drum and I want to convert it into brake rotor). Can you guys help me out with this?
thankz
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
#1 get a wheelbarrow full of money! #2 If you are lucky you might find a Honda with 5 lug wheels, - you then might be able to pull hubs off and change out with stock parts! Or you might be able to buy adapters at auto parts store (or custom wheel shop)! This will cost you plenty! For non drive wheels you can change hubs, -- but you need to find one at junkyard (preferably) that has disc brakes on back and buy all the stuff needed to remove drum brakes and backing plates and install lines that go with disc brakes! Then you have problem of parking brake, which has to have all the conversion stuff to to work!
When you get finished with that, all you have to do is get master cylinder for disc brakes, (for all 4 wheels), change anti skid brake parts (if so equipped) and possibly %26quot;shuttle valve that shuts off fluid flow should one %26quot;end %26quot; of car have brake leak, and then I guess you are ready to go!
Possibly you can buy conversion kit for disc brakes at a%26quot;speed shop/custom car supply%26quot; place for somewhere around $900-1000! They also might have adapters to bolt on. but this will make your wheels sit out about 1 1/2%26quot; probably - so you might need %26quot;deep dish%26quot; wheels to go that way!
To me it would be unwarranted expense, as only about 1/3 of braking goes to rear wheels! And if you are going to %26quot;play competition%26quot; you will probably tear car up and ruin it in short order anyway!
But then what do I know!! I have only been fixing cars since I was 9,---which is almost 60 years ago!
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
The lugs are part of the %26quot;brake-rotor%26quot;
The lugs are mounted in the hub assembly of each wheel, the key is finding 5 lug hubs which have the same size bearing mounting shaft as the 4 lug hubs which you have. once you locate a set of the proper hubs you will have to obtain rotors to match, Brake caliper mounts to match the rotors (front and rear) which may require replacement of the knuckles in the front and will certainly require modifications to the rear spindle supports to mount the rear calipers. This is not going to be a simple swap a few pieces operation - your best bet will be to find a disk brake equipped rear %26quot;axle%26quot; assembly from a similar car so you have all the pieces in one assembly then find a really good welder who you can persuade ($$$) to perform non dot approved modifications to your machine. If you are reasonable lucky on the parts locating side of this you might get it accomplished for less than 2 or 3 thousand dollars.
WHY would you want to do this? It would be very expensive for no benefit whatsoever.
thankz
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
#1 get a wheelbarrow full of money! #2 If you are lucky you might find a Honda with 5 lug wheels, - you then might be able to pull hubs off and change out with stock parts! Or you might be able to buy adapters at auto parts store (or custom wheel shop)! This will cost you plenty! For non drive wheels you can change hubs, -- but you need to find one at junkyard (preferably) that has disc brakes on back and buy all the stuff needed to remove drum brakes and backing plates and install lines that go with disc brakes! Then you have problem of parking brake, which has to have all the conversion stuff to to work!
When you get finished with that, all you have to do is get master cylinder for disc brakes, (for all 4 wheels), change anti skid brake parts (if so equipped) and possibly %26quot;shuttle valve that shuts off fluid flow should one %26quot;end %26quot; of car have brake leak, and then I guess you are ready to go!
Possibly you can buy conversion kit for disc brakes at a%26quot;speed shop/custom car supply%26quot; place for somewhere around $900-1000! They also might have adapters to bolt on. but this will make your wheels sit out about 1 1/2%26quot; probably - so you might need %26quot;deep dish%26quot; wheels to go that way!
To me it would be unwarranted expense, as only about 1/3 of braking goes to rear wheels! And if you are going to %26quot;play competition%26quot; you will probably tear car up and ruin it in short order anyway!
But then what do I know!! I have only been fixing cars since I was 9,---which is almost 60 years ago!
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
The lugs are part of the %26quot;brake-rotor%26quot;
The lugs are mounted in the hub assembly of each wheel, the key is finding 5 lug hubs which have the same size bearing mounting shaft as the 4 lug hubs which you have. once you locate a set of the proper hubs you will have to obtain rotors to match, Brake caliper mounts to match the rotors (front and rear) which may require replacement of the knuckles in the front and will certainly require modifications to the rear spindle supports to mount the rear calipers. This is not going to be a simple swap a few pieces operation - your best bet will be to find a disk brake equipped rear %26quot;axle%26quot; assembly from a similar car so you have all the pieces in one assembly then find a really good welder who you can persuade ($$$) to perform non dot approved modifications to your machine. If you are reasonable lucky on the parts locating side of this you might get it accomplished for less than 2 or 3 thousand dollars.
WHY would you want to do this? It would be very expensive for no benefit whatsoever.
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I've got a '98 Wrangler with 84,000 miles on it. I assume the brake pads have never been changed which I am planning on doing soon. My question has arisen because on several occasions now after I was driving in the rain and then let the vehicle sit for several hours, I started driving again and the first time I push the breaks (even very lightly) one of the rear wheels will completely lock up and the tire just starts dragging and screeching loudly leaving a hefty skid mark behind. Is this just being caused by the old brake pads and drums which need replacing and turning, respectively? Or will I need to plan on repairing something else in there? Thanks!
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I am thinking that the brake shoes you have back there are next to none for brake lining.I would really be thinking if I am not wrong the brake shoes on this jeep have no lining left.That is what might be causing the brake grab.On some brake linings they use rivets to hold the brake lining on the metal shoes with bonding.Other time they only use just bonding and no rivets just so you can go farther on a set of brake shoes.Its up to the customer witch brake shoes to use for the car.Have you brake drums checked also for scaring and out of roundness by taking them to a machine shop or just get new drums for the rear.And after you have gone and done all that check your wheel cylinders on the rear to see if anything is leaking.If it is you can get replacement parts for the hydralic system.But if you need to get into that have someone there to pump the brake pedal to bleed the system to get the air out of the system but make sure you have plenty of brake fluid for the job.Good luck! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I just recently had this exact same problem with my '90 Dodge Daytona. Replace your brake pads as soon as possible. Cleaning the brake shoe(the one that's locking) and making sure there are no leaks should do the trick. I had to have the shoe replaced for it to stop locking. Hopefully all you have to do is replace the brake pads. I waited so long to do so that the rotors needed to be resurfaced and it cost me a pretty penny. ($200)database rodents
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I am thinking that the brake shoes you have back there are next to none for brake lining.I would really be thinking if I am not wrong the brake shoes on this jeep have no lining left.That is what might be causing the brake grab.On some brake linings they use rivets to hold the brake lining on the metal shoes with bonding.Other time they only use just bonding and no rivets just so you can go farther on a set of brake shoes.Its up to the customer witch brake shoes to use for the car.Have you brake drums checked also for scaring and out of roundness by taking them to a machine shop or just get new drums for the rear.And after you have gone and done all that check your wheel cylinders on the rear to see if anything is leaking.If it is you can get replacement parts for the hydralic system.But if you need to get into that have someone there to pump the brake pedal to bleed the system to get the air out of the system but make sure you have plenty of brake fluid for the job.Good luck! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I just recently had this exact same problem with my '90 Dodge Daytona. Replace your brake pads as soon as possible. Cleaning the brake shoe(the one that's locking) and making sure there are no leaks should do the trick. I had to have the shoe replaced for it to stop locking. Hopefully all you have to do is replace the brake pads. I waited so long to do so that the rotors needed to be resurfaced and it cost me a pretty penny. ($200)
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)