Sunday 5 June 2011
I have a 84 gmc truck. I need to know if i can change the drum brakes to disk brakes from a later model?
I think the common swap is to put the axle from a 94-96 Impala SS. I looked into it, but it was more work than I could do myself. Check out 73-87Chevytrucks.com, that site is packed with info about our trucks. I have a 82 silverado and I go by the name of Team39763 on there. Go check it out.|||There are kits available if you have the 14Bolt Full-Floater axle (8-lug wheels). I%26#039;m not aware of kits for the half-ton trucks. You could do an axle swap from a 2000+ truck, the half-tons had disc brakes on the rear, of course with a little effort; it will not be a direct bolt in.|||sure
How do you change rear drum brakes to disk on a Nissan Sentra?
I have a 1992 Nissan Sentra XE (four door), and I want to change the stock drum brakes on the rear to disk brakes. I would also like to change the rotors in the front to bigger ones. What all do I need to do? I don%26#039;t need an exact answer for my car, just the basic steps for converting drum brakes to disk.
Right now its FWD, so it doesn%26#039;t even have power going back there, but I still want disk brakes. I am planning on doing an engine swap, and making it RWD, but that%26#039;s a whole other animal.|||Your money would be best spent on a car less than 18 years old. That said everything is different from the master Cly to the rear parking brake cables and hydraulic hoses and tubing.. It could get costly quickly. I know only anti lock brake sentra had disks rear the 1994 year model. You could get used parts out of a autorecyclers yard. They don%26#039;t like being called junk yards. I have never seen a rear wheel drive sentra conversion. If you want a 350Z get one it would be cheaper and performance parts will be available. Good Luck|||I have to totally agree with John Paul...These are some ambitious and potentially expensive mods for that old car. As much as I like Nissan and agree they can run and run you gotta worry if or when the rust will start.... The biggest killer of these cars is not mechanical but body cancer....I would drive it the way it is and save your money...If your heart is set on the rear wheel drive consider a Z car--if you like the Sentra a R or Spec V are what is in your future.
Right now its FWD, so it doesn%26#039;t even have power going back there, but I still want disk brakes. I am planning on doing an engine swap, and making it RWD, but that%26#039;s a whole other animal.|||Your money would be best spent on a car less than 18 years old. That said everything is different from the master Cly to the rear parking brake cables and hydraulic hoses and tubing.. It could get costly quickly. I know only anti lock brake sentra had disks rear the 1994 year model. You could get used parts out of a autorecyclers yard. They don%26#039;t like being called junk yards. I have never seen a rear wheel drive sentra conversion. If you want a 350Z get one it would be cheaper and performance parts will be available. Good Luck|||I have to totally agree with John Paul...These are some ambitious and potentially expensive mods for that old car. As much as I like Nissan and agree they can run and run you gotta worry if or when the rust will start.... The biggest killer of these cars is not mechanical but body cancer....I would drive it the way it is and save your money...If your heart is set on the rear wheel drive consider a Z car--if you like the Sentra a R or Spec V are what is in your future.
I changed the 4 wheel cylinders on my drum brake set up. but my steering wheel spins when brakes are applied?
The steering wheel spins violently when the brakes are applied. All cylinders changed and bled. Any ideas?|||sounds like one or more of the brakes are adjusted improperly.... only way to check is to jack the vehicle up and rotate all four wheels... they should drag slightly - too much drag would cause it to pull when accelerating, cruising, and stopping... on the other hand if one isn%26#039;t adjusted out enough when the brakes are applied it may not even contact the drum thus causing a pull to the other side... they are very sensitive to adjustment in that sense..... start with the front two wheels since it is jerking the steering wheel - if it were in the rears it shouldn%26#039;t be so noticeable... hope this helps and good luck with it|||You did it wrong. The brakes don%26#039;t work on one side.|||drum breaks are know for this its just part of drum breaks thats why they are no longer used. something is binding. Check the E-break and ajustment.|||when you replaced them did you notice if they are self-adjusting?
if they are when you change the brakes, make them where they are snug when you put on the brake drum. start the car and back up. as your backing up firmly press the brakes, this will automatically set your brakes.....the self adjusters only adjust in reverse.
if this doesnt work then you might need to re-bleed them once agian. sometimes those air bubbles get a little stubborn. start with the rear drivers tire, then the other rear tire. then your front passenger, then drivers front.
if this still doesnt work take hubs back off and make sure your brake assymble is installed correctly.|||Even a small amount of contamination on the shoes,such as brake fluid or oil,will cause it to grab and pull the car in it%26#039;s direction.The drums should be removed so that the shoes can be lightly sanded.
if they are when you change the brakes, make them where they are snug when you put on the brake drum. start the car and back up. as your backing up firmly press the brakes, this will automatically set your brakes.....the self adjusters only adjust in reverse.
if this doesnt work then you might need to re-bleed them once agian. sometimes those air bubbles get a little stubborn. start with the rear drivers tire, then the other rear tire. then your front passenger, then drivers front.
if this still doesnt work take hubs back off and make sure your brake assymble is installed correctly.|||Even a small amount of contamination on the shoes,such as brake fluid or oil,will cause it to grab and pull the car in it%26#039;s direction.The drums should be removed so that the shoes can be lightly sanded.
Can you change from drum brakes to disc brakes on a 92 Ford F 150 long bed truck?
yeah, you need to buy a conversion kit. the question is do they make one for your truck? call summit racing in akron ohio|||I have seen a lot of conversion kits to do the same thing on Chevy/GMC trucks of that era. I don%26#039;t see why there wouldn%26#039;t be a conversion kit out there somewhere for it. You might want to start looking at the aftermarket accessory kit companies for a starting point.|||funny you ask that, my father and i changed the drum to disk on a short bed dodge 95 last weekend, my best advice to you is, check out your local canadian tire or part source retail chain store and pick up a 92 ford f 150 manuel, in the manuel it will list all possible applications for brakes and changing/mataining and up-keep
you can also check the guide that came with the truck itself....or for further detail, resort to professional opinion....hope i helped somewhat.
you can also check the guide that came with the truck itself....or for further detail, resort to professional opinion....hope i helped somewhat.
Can I change my 1992 ford f-150's drum brakes to Disc brakes?
is it possible to change out from drum brakes to Disc brakes?|||Yes i assume you can, you will have to replace the complete unit, and don%26#039;t forget to bleed the brakes out good !|||yes it can be done if you can find the conversion kit from an aftermarket company or a donor car or truck that will fit your truck.|||Yes, it is possible to that with any car or truck. depending on your setup, it may require a bit more than what you want to pay for, but very possible. i%26#039;m doing the same for my %26#039;84 camaro|||Yes you sure can.|||Your front already has disc.
If they dont make a retro kit-the only thing you can do is go to a salvage yard and find a Ford rear axle that has disc brakes and change them out.|||Sure.
Find a complete rear axle with disc brakes in a junk yard and replace the whole thing.
That%26#039;s probably the easiest and least expensive way to go.
If they dont make a retro kit-the only thing you can do is go to a salvage yard and find a Ford rear axle that has disc brakes and change them out.|||Sure.
Find a complete rear axle with disc brakes in a junk yard and replace the whole thing.
That%26#039;s probably the easiest and least expensive way to go.
I have a bajaj XCD and would like to change the drum brakes to disk. Please tell me whether this is possible.?
How much it would cost me?|||no.
it can not be done.
forget about it.
it can not be done.
forget about it.
How to change out the Drum brakes on a 08 Civic coupe LX to disc brakes?
If you dont buy a manual take one side off at a time and buy the spring tools. If you get lost take the other side other and look at how its put together|||im not real sure how
Drum to disc brakes on 01 celica gt? how to do it?
I am wanting to change my drum brakes to disc in the rear of my 01 celica gt. any ideas on how to do this and do it cost effectively?|||As the guy above said unless you are looking to race the car you shouldn%26#039;t bother with that.
If you are persistent then search for 7th gen. celica forums and they%26#039;ll have you covered.
Get braided stainless steel brake lines, slotted rotors (not cheap ones), and high end brake pads (EBC red stuff or Hawk HP+) or better, and your car will stop about 25 feet shorter than it does right now.
If you are able to do the labor yourself you are looking at $350 and up for that job. I can%26#039;t give you a range on the high end because for all I know you could go out and get a big brake brembo kit and spend $2000 on brakes for the front end alone.|||You really should just forget about this. The reality is that the front brakes do 70-80% of the braking and that is because the rear end is so light and under braking the weight transfers forward so there is almost no traction on the rear. If you put on stronger rear brakes you run the risk of locking the rear wheels and the car will swap ends in a heartbeat. You will get more %26quot;bang for your buck%26quot; if you upgrade the front brakes with top line pads and drilled/grooved discs.
If you are persistent then search for 7th gen. celica forums and they%26#039;ll have you covered.
Get braided stainless steel brake lines, slotted rotors (not cheap ones), and high end brake pads (EBC red stuff or Hawk HP+) or better, and your car will stop about 25 feet shorter than it does right now.
If you are able to do the labor yourself you are looking at $350 and up for that job. I can%26#039;t give you a range on the high end because for all I know you could go out and get a big brake brembo kit and spend $2000 on brakes for the front end alone.|||You really should just forget about this. The reality is that the front brakes do 70-80% of the braking and that is because the rear end is so light and under braking the weight transfers forward so there is almost no traction on the rear. If you put on stronger rear brakes you run the risk of locking the rear wheels and the car will swap ends in a heartbeat. You will get more %26quot;bang for your buck%26quot; if you upgrade the front brakes with top line pads and drilled/grooved discs.
How do i change rear drum brakes on a 1993 Ford Bronco?
Go out and grab yourself two books...The Hayne%26#039;s Manual for your year Bronco, and then the Hayne%26#039;s Brake Manual. This is an intense job and will take time and patience. The books will give you a step by step right there by your side, and most importantly, they%26#039;ll have pictures.
The reason this is so important is because drum brakes use springs to get the pressure from the brake cylinders in each drum to apply evenly to the shoes. One of the best pieces of advice, other than the books, is to get a digital or old school polaroid camera. Pop off both wheels, then the drums. Work on one wheel at a time, but when it comes time to reassemble to the springs, you%26#039;ll have a real-time guide to go by and it%26#039;s a lot easier than getting up and looking and comparing, sitting down, getting back up....
It is a serious job, will take some time if you%26#039;ve never done it before and definitely some patience. It%26#039;s not an impossible job though. It%26#039;s the first thing I learned when I was 15 years old...drum brakes. I did it by myself one weekend and it worked out great.
BTW--grab the Hayne%26#039;s manual because there are a few specific (but cheap) tools you will need to make this easier for yourself. It describes them as well as the actual process for the job. Good luck.|||This is a bit involved for this type of forum. However, if you can turn a wrench, bleed brakes, and follow written directions, you can do it. A 1993 service manual can be found in the reference section of your local library quite easily.
Good luck|||Instructions with step by step pictures can be found here:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>|||Hi,,,, i am going to tell you the truth,,,, take it and have a professional do it for you.... then,, watch him do it,,,,, there are some tricky things to doing rear breaks... compaired to the front ones.....so watch and learn ,, then next time you can do it..(no kidding)...
good luck
The reason this is so important is because drum brakes use springs to get the pressure from the brake cylinders in each drum to apply evenly to the shoes. One of the best pieces of advice, other than the books, is to get a digital or old school polaroid camera. Pop off both wheels, then the drums. Work on one wheel at a time, but when it comes time to reassemble to the springs, you%26#039;ll have a real-time guide to go by and it%26#039;s a lot easier than getting up and looking and comparing, sitting down, getting back up....
It is a serious job, will take some time if you%26#039;ve never done it before and definitely some patience. It%26#039;s not an impossible job though. It%26#039;s the first thing I learned when I was 15 years old...drum brakes. I did it by myself one weekend and it worked out great.
BTW--grab the Hayne%26#039;s manual because there are a few specific (but cheap) tools you will need to make this easier for yourself. It describes them as well as the actual process for the job. Good luck.|||This is a bit involved for this type of forum. However, if you can turn a wrench, bleed brakes, and follow written directions, you can do it. A 1993 service manual can be found in the reference section of your local library quite easily.
Good luck|||Instructions with step by step pictures can be found here:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>|||Hi,,,, i am going to tell you the truth,,,, take it and have a professional do it for you.... then,, watch him do it,,,,, there are some tricky things to doing rear breaks... compaired to the front ones.....so watch and learn ,, then next time you can do it..(no kidding)...
good luck
How do I change rear drum brakes on a 2001 Nissan Altima?
is that a drum brake or disc
anyway
take your rear wheel off
then go on
you will get there|||Your Nissan dealer will do it with a smile on his face. They are the best people to turn to since they are the ones that made the car.|||The biggest trick on this job is getting the drums off! They are usually rusted on and require some heat and tapping of a mallet. Just be sure that you don%26#039;t melt or damage anything in the process! Once you get the drums off the pads are fairly easy to change out, just take your time. You can always take it to the dealer and have them change the brakes which is convienent and less stressful, but you will pay out the nose! The front brakes are very simple (about 15 minutes per side) i change them myself and would even change the rears. If you mechanically capable them try it yourself! Good Luck and take you time!!!
anyway
take your rear wheel off
then go on
you will get there|||Your Nissan dealer will do it with a smile on his face. They are the best people to turn to since they are the ones that made the car.|||The biggest trick on this job is getting the drums off! They are usually rusted on and require some heat and tapping of a mallet. Just be sure that you don%26#039;t melt or damage anything in the process! Once you get the drums off the pads are fairly easy to change out, just take your time. You can always take it to the dealer and have them change the brakes which is convienent and less stressful, but you will pay out the nose! The front brakes are very simple (about 15 minutes per side) i change them myself and would even change the rears. If you mechanically capable them try it yourself! Good Luck and take you time!!!
How to remove the drum to change the brakes on a 2001 toyota rav 4?
I am having trouble removing the drum. I have adjusted the star wheel back and forth and it still will not come off. Do you have any suggestions. Thank You.|||banging will help...look at the center where the big hole in the drum fits over the shaft..if there is any rust on it, it need to be removed...if this doesnt work then the drum is rusted to the hub underneath that hold the studs...smack the crap out of it around the outer edge on the front...the drum wont break so have at it....if this still fail get a pry bar and jam it behind the drum..but becarefull what your using inside..things can bend inside including the dust sheildso get it in the as far as possible..if u got a friend pry and hammer at the same time...hope this help for you..its what i do when doing rear breaks|||Take the handbrake off if it%26#039;s on. Then grab a hammer. Bang the front(careful with the wheel studs) right in between the wheel studs. Also you can spin the drum and just start banging away at the sides. Eventually it will loosen up.
How do you change drum brakes on an 02 jeep liberty. 4x4 with 3.7L?
I don%26#039;t imagine its much different than on a TJ
http://www.4x4xplor.com/drum-brakes.html
http://www.4x4xplor.com/drum-brakes.html
Ist it possible to change out the rear drum brakes on 2007 New Body Silverado and switch to OEM disc?
I have found aftermarket kits but I would rather have oem disc brakes. My dealer said it would require computer changes and such costing 10k! However I think he has no idea what he is speaking of when I see aftermarket kits out there. Can%26#039;t I just have the parts ordered? Does this impact the abs? Proportioning valve?|||i know the kits your talking about ,and yes it can alter the braking system sometimes,but the kits for the newer vehicles they give you everything needed to do this with,it doesn%26#039;t alter the proportioning valve none but it can affect the abs system on it,some kits come with extra sensors for this,if you buy one buy a good kit,good luck with it.
I just change drum brakes and now the shakes?
did you have the drums turned?, if not that is your problem.|||Warped drums?|||%26quot;The Shakes%26quot; can be caused by a rotational misbalance that can occur during intense centrifugal force; wether it be normal driving or during braking. There are very small weights that can balance out you brake drum, or rotor, and work in unison with your (balanced) wheel to make things run smoothly. The weights are pretty similar to a tire weight and can be found at your local brake shop, i.e. midas, just brakes, or dealership. I would think that professional help and installation would be better than guessing, though. Perhaps it could be a bent drum, or warped pressure plate of some sort. Good luck!
Can you change from disc brakes to drum on 1967 AMC Ambassador?
I just bought a 1967 AMC Ambassador that i%26#039;m gonna be working on and so far i%26#039;ve done the minor stuff but the only thing i don%26#039;t like is the drum brakes. Is it possible for me to switch all 4 to disc or would it be better to leave it as drum and just put new parts on?|||If they make a changeover kit you can do it, call summit racing or jeggs and see what they say.|||leave well enough alone......
Guide to drum brake changing.?
Is there an in-depth guide online (w/ pics) to changing drum bakes? I%26#039;m having a hard time.|||depends on the brakes-the car in question
in general secure car-unlock wheel nuts,raise car,remove wheel/s
remove dust cap/s-u hav 2 shoes+they are held in by springs,remove the upper first with pliers(the return spring)this allows removal of the upper leading shoe-the other can be removed as the spring can now be accessed
there is a knack 2 spring removal/replacement as they are twisty+bendy+fit in a certain way that means they wont fail in service.what is the car please?
also people get brake issues as they forget the handbrake is connected to the trailing shoe by means of a hook etc
i would invest in a haynes-will save you god knows how much in real terms-ebay have them for a penny to a tenner
even new is worth the 20 quid if u canot find one
reason i ask iss i have several from wen i was a car breaker they are as valuable as any 1st edition 2 me+they have EXACTLY what u are askin for-pics+explanation|||you can try to log in to autozone they have some good pics and how to%26#039;s|||Hi,My friend I believe I have what you are looking for to do your project.Go to auto repair how to-(info.com) do a search.Has step by step pictures of the job.Good Luck.|||Drums CAN be a real pain! I%26#039;ve found OEM manuals from Helm,inc. to be the best out there. Beware! They are not cheap! I do imagine you might get some info at cartalk.com.|||haynes books are junk - they don%26#039;t show the details you need.
The best way to accomplish drum break overhaul is to do one side at a time, while using the other assembled side as a reference.
The hardest thing is getting the drums off and is done by loosening the adjusters off. To to this, you have to hold the anti-reverse tab off of the little adjusting wheel while turning it with an adjusting tool. After replacing the shoes and putting the drum back on, you will need to tighten this adjustment back up to where the shoes are contacting the drum.|||Get yourself a Haynes book for your car, they have very detailed instructions and pics, they cost about $20.00. You can get them at most auto parts stores.
in general secure car-unlock wheel nuts,raise car,remove wheel/s
remove dust cap/s-u hav 2 shoes+they are held in by springs,remove the upper first with pliers(the return spring)this allows removal of the upper leading shoe-the other can be removed as the spring can now be accessed
there is a knack 2 spring removal/replacement as they are twisty+bendy+fit in a certain way that means they wont fail in service.what is the car please?
also people get brake issues as they forget the handbrake is connected to the trailing shoe by means of a hook etc
i would invest in a haynes-will save you god knows how much in real terms-ebay have them for a penny to a tenner
even new is worth the 20 quid if u canot find one
reason i ask iss i have several from wen i was a car breaker they are as valuable as any 1st edition 2 me+they have EXACTLY what u are askin for-pics+explanation|||you can try to log in to autozone they have some good pics and how to%26#039;s|||Hi,My friend I believe I have what you are looking for to do your project.Go to auto repair how to-(info.com) do a search.Has step by step pictures of the job.Good Luck.|||Drums CAN be a real pain! I%26#039;ve found OEM manuals from Helm,inc. to be the best out there. Beware! They are not cheap! I do imagine you might get some info at cartalk.com.|||haynes books are junk - they don%26#039;t show the details you need.
The best way to accomplish drum break overhaul is to do one side at a time, while using the other assembled side as a reference.
The hardest thing is getting the drums off and is done by loosening the adjusters off. To to this, you have to hold the anti-reverse tab off of the little adjusting wheel while turning it with an adjusting tool. After replacing the shoes and putting the drum back on, you will need to tighten this adjustment back up to where the shoes are contacting the drum.|||Get yourself a Haynes book for your car, they have very detailed instructions and pics, they cost about $20.00. You can get them at most auto parts stores.
Can I change my 1993 impreza's rear drum brakes to disk brakes?
My impreza has disk in the front and drum in the rear. I want to change the drum to disk. Should i? Can i? Link or explanetion on how please.|||you%26#039;ll need new/used knuckles with mounting points for the calipers. running the brake line from where the wheel cylinder was and swapping over the ebrake parts are the hardest part. i%26#039;ve done it so it is possible, just gotta find all the parts.
Do I need a high pressure master cylinder if I changed my 73 Nova from drum to disc brakes?
I changed front %26amp; rear brakes from drum to disc on my 73 Nova. After bleeding the brakes, the petal is still soft. Master cylinder is a stock non power unit.|||To add to what Dave said, there may be a distribution block, but also make sure the proportioning valve is for disc brakes or the car will never stop right. Also make sure you have bench bled the new master cylinder.|||You need a master cylinder for disc brakes. Disk brakes take more fluid to move the pistons and the drum brake cylinder will not move the correct volume of fluid to move the caliper pistons. You may also need to install the disc/drum block after the mastercylinder. Go to any good brake web site for the correct parts. Plenty of Nova owner web sites to help you out.
How much does it cost to change the rear drum brakes on a 2004 honda accord?
self- $35.00
at dealer or garage- about $150.|||Where? At a Honda dealer in the USA or at a Mikey Mouse garage in India?|||Call an auto repair shop and ask them. Lots cheaper than a Honda dealer.
at dealer or garage- about $150.|||Where? At a Honda dealer in the USA or at a Mikey Mouse garage in India?|||Call an auto repair shop and ask them. Lots cheaper than a Honda dealer.
Whats the most cost effective way to convert my drum brakes to disc brakes?
i have a 93 mustang. i want to change the rear drum set to disc brakes. whats the best way to go about doing it? cost and time.|||Most cost effective is a tape measure and a junk yard (or recycling center) as properly called now For a couple hundred bucks and some tools and jacks it can be easily done by the inexperienced.|||You will have to check out some of the brake companies on the internet to see if they have a kit for your car. Try Brembo, Reybestos, or Brake Planet.|||get a used rear end with disks from the junk yard that will fit .|||The cheapest way is to find a later model that has the rear disks, and buy the complete thing. Either take the parts off and remount them to your rear end or change the complete unit out. These can be found starting at 175 dollars (93 four lug 8.8). 95 Cobra rear ends can be found for 150 dollars up. Of course plan on buying new disks and pads at least. If needed spend a few dollars on new calipers.
The cheapest complete kit that I could find costs 374 dollars (summit racing) you might find it cheaper. This should be used as a guide in shopping to beat.|||Obtain a late model mustang rear end with disk brakes......salvage yard, junk yard, recyclers, midnight auto supply......Converting what you have would be rather costly and it would be sub standard to Fords disk brakes....
The cheapest complete kit that I could find costs 374 dollars (summit racing) you might find it cheaper. This should be used as a guide in shopping to beat.|||Obtain a late model mustang rear end with disk brakes......salvage yard, junk yard, recyclers, midnight auto supply......Converting what you have would be rather costly and it would be sub standard to Fords disk brakes....
Changed drum brakes, not breaking takes longer - help!?
Ok, I changed my rear drum brakes and the test drive was interesting. The brake pedal pushes way further towards the floor than it did before and breaking is really soft. I%26#039;m guessing that I didn%26#039;t turn the adjusting screw for the shoes far enough and now the shoes aren%26#039;t fully pressing against the drum to provide enough stopping power.
A reasonable assumption?
The directions said to press the shoes against the drum and then back off a bit. Well, I find it a tad difficult to tell when the shoes are touching the drum. I turn the wheel and the noises all sound the same to me. Any ideas?
Also, is it necessary to adjust the parking break after installing rear shoes and drums?
%26#039;03 Ford Taurus Sedan|||As you say it may be shoe to drum Clearance or air has got into the hydraulic system so may have to bleed the brakes.
Once that is fine you should be able to tell if your handbrake needs adjusting.|||I don%26#039;t know much about the taurus but it sounds like you might have air in your line, which would cause the symptoms you are talking about.|||Well so long as you have replaced all the parts, Spreader, spring and tensioner and such properly then you need to pump the brake pads just a bit more to adjust the brakes. roll the car in drive in a neighborhood a bit at slow speed and work the line out.
What you do need to be sure is that the Brake line is not leaking near the brake drums, then check the fluid levels in the brake cylinder at the reservoir.
if you cannot correct or tighten the brakes within an hour call a friend to come over who knows more about brakes than you do to trouble shoot.
You may have a air bubble in the line when you were removing the brakes or adjusting the fluid.
If you two cannot figure it out, then take it to a garage immediately.
Good luck|||The self adjusting mechanism should take out the slack, eventually. While parked, step on the brake pedal hard a few times, that should make them adjust. Some require you to step on the brake pedal while moving backwards to adjust.
After the brakes are adjusted, make sure the parking brake is working properly. Might need adjusting.
A reasonable assumption?
The directions said to press the shoes against the drum and then back off a bit. Well, I find it a tad difficult to tell when the shoes are touching the drum. I turn the wheel and the noises all sound the same to me. Any ideas?
Also, is it necessary to adjust the parking break after installing rear shoes and drums?
%26#039;03 Ford Taurus Sedan|||As you say it may be shoe to drum Clearance or air has got into the hydraulic system so may have to bleed the brakes.
Once that is fine you should be able to tell if your handbrake needs adjusting.|||I don%26#039;t know much about the taurus but it sounds like you might have air in your line, which would cause the symptoms you are talking about.|||Well so long as you have replaced all the parts, Spreader, spring and tensioner and such properly then you need to pump the brake pads just a bit more to adjust the brakes. roll the car in drive in a neighborhood a bit at slow speed and work the line out.
What you do need to be sure is that the Brake line is not leaking near the brake drums, then check the fluid levels in the brake cylinder at the reservoir.
if you cannot correct or tighten the brakes within an hour call a friend to come over who knows more about brakes than you do to trouble shoot.
You may have a air bubble in the line when you were removing the brakes or adjusting the fluid.
If you two cannot figure it out, then take it to a garage immediately.
Good luck|||The self adjusting mechanism should take out the slack, eventually. While parked, step on the brake pedal hard a few times, that should make them adjust. Some require you to step on the brake pedal while moving backwards to adjust.
After the brakes are adjusted, make sure the parking brake is working properly. Might need adjusting.
Changing from drum to disc brake!?
Is it hard to change your drum brakes to disc brakes? How do you change your brakes from drum to disc?|||Why? Drums work fine.|||You would simply install the kit you bought for your vehicle by following the instructions. It also helps to know the type of vehicle , and if there is a kit , or you have to piece something together from the wreckers. Hey Someone! keep your crap to yourself, We don`t need your junk on here.|||hard not so much but costly. better to just ask a parts store or shop if it can be done on your car or truck sometimes its just not worfth it|||Have a professional do the job.|||It%26#039;s not hard but one has to ask why? On a street driven vehicle there is no larger waste of money. You will get no performance benefit.
98 Toyota 4Runner rear drum brakes want to know if I can change it to disc like the front?
I don%26#039;t like the drum brakes on the back. I was wondering if Toyota or maybe another after market company makes a kit to change the back from drum to disc. If so how much does it cost? Where do I find it?How long will it take me to do this? Thanks.|||You can, but it will be expensive, a lot of work, and have no real benefit.
Most of your braking power comes from the front brakes. The rears don%26#039;t need the power of a disc setup.
And while it is more of a pain to do a drum brake job, rear drum brakes wear very slowly; you probably only have to do read drums every 60,000 or so miles (more or less depending on how you drive),|||your gonna be better off jus leaving it the way it is. I helped a friend last summer do that to his 4runner and it was a pain!!!! It didnt make much diffrence at all either! He spent 600 in junk yard parts|||Check to see if Toyota had another later model SUV with rear disc brakes.
Most of your braking power comes from the front brakes. The rears don%26#039;t need the power of a disc setup.
And while it is more of a pain to do a drum brake job, rear drum brakes wear very slowly; you probably only have to do read drums every 60,000 or so miles (more or less depending on how you drive),|||your gonna be better off jus leaving it the way it is. I helped a friend last summer do that to his 4runner and it was a pain!!!! It didnt make much diffrence at all either! He spent 600 in junk yard parts|||Check to see if Toyota had another later model SUV with rear disc brakes.
How to convert my 96 Camaro rear drum brakes into disc brakes?
how can i change my rear drum brakes into disc brake? and are they better? and how much would the rough cost be?|||Are they better? Absolutely. Difficulty? Well, its a bit involved - I haven%26#039;t done them on a 4th gen, but on the earlier, you were best off swapping an entire rear axle from a disc-equipped car, or buying an aftermarket kit. On top of that, you need the proportioning valve and master cylinder for a 4 wheel disc equipped camaro.
I%26#039;d estimate the cost (with effective scrounging) to be about 1000-1200 bucks.
You can improve the braking performance of your rear drums by switching over to performance shoes on your 96. While they%26#039;re not the equivalent to the disc setup, it will improve the grip and fade on your drums, and pairing that with performance pads on the front will net you a very capable braking system for a fraction of the cost of the upgrade. Unless you autocross or are into 0-100-0 contests, you may find that to be a very effective alternative.|||Easiest option, get a used rear end from a camaro that had disc brakes. Check ebay or a local parts lot.
go to camaroz28.com for advice on how to do this. those guys should be able to help you significantly on what all the job entails.|||Disc brakes are much better. They make conversion kits. Start with Summit Racing and check around. You do NOT need another rear end.|||Easiest option, get a used rear end from a camaro that had disc brakes.
------------------
What that guy said.
Besides, you%26#039;d also be getting that limited slip differential (Positrac) as well.
What is not to like about that?
$200 part or some stupid $500 kit?
Exactly.
No prop valve necessary if I recall.
I%26#039;d estimate the cost (with effective scrounging) to be about 1000-1200 bucks.
You can improve the braking performance of your rear drums by switching over to performance shoes on your 96. While they%26#039;re not the equivalent to the disc setup, it will improve the grip and fade on your drums, and pairing that with performance pads on the front will net you a very capable braking system for a fraction of the cost of the upgrade. Unless you autocross or are into 0-100-0 contests, you may find that to be a very effective alternative.|||Easiest option, get a used rear end from a camaro that had disc brakes. Check ebay or a local parts lot.
go to camaroz28.com for advice on how to do this. those guys should be able to help you significantly on what all the job entails.|||Disc brakes are much better. They make conversion kits. Start with Summit Racing and check around. You do NOT need another rear end.|||Easiest option, get a used rear end from a camaro that had disc brakes.
------------------
What that guy said.
Besides, you%26#039;d also be getting that limited slip differential (Positrac) as well.
What is not to like about that?
$200 part or some stupid $500 kit?
Exactly.
No prop valve necessary if I recall.
Can I change my 1969 Caprice drum brakes to disc brakes off of a 1972 Pick up truck?
Also i want to know that i should take the spinner from the left side of the truck and put it on the right side of the car and take the right spinner off the truck and put it on the left side of the car. I know I must change the brake line and ball joints from the car! PLEASE ANSWER!!!!!!!|||I%26#039;m not sure if you can do that, or if a 1972 pick up would even have disc brakes. Disc brakes never really became standard equiptment on most American cars until the 1980%26#039;s. Even some 1980%26#039;s Camaros have disc brakes. Luckily my IROC has discs.
Just check this out, it%26#039;s a disc brake conversion. Hope I helped out.
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/ssbc-鈥?/a>
Just check this out, it%26#039;s a disc brake conversion. Hope I helped out.
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/ssbc-鈥?/a>
Honda Accord brake is like mush after replacing rear drum brakes?
I replaced my rear drum brakes and now I have to pump my car%26#039;s brakes to stop the car...on the first pump it goes all the way to the floor and after that about halfway then on the third time it will start to stop the car. I accidentally had brake fluid come out of the cylinder when I was changing the drum...
HELP ASAP PLEASE!!!|||did u bleed the brakes properly?sounds like u didnt do that right.u have to open the bleed valve,press the brake,hold the brake,then close the valve back up,while ur foot is still holding the brakes down.do not let go until the valve is closed becuz u will just suck air right back into the line..keep doing it till u see a solid stream of brake fluid come out 3 times.then u have gotten the air out of the lines.do it to both sides.|||I concur with everyone, sounds like air got into the lines. Anytime you have brake fluid coming out like a leak, you can get air in there. If fluid comes out, air can go in. I will add that when you bleed the brakes, start at the wheel farthest from the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. So, in this order bleed the passenger back wheel, then the driver%26#039;s back wheel, then the passenger front wheel, then the driver%26#039;s front wheel. If you don%26#039;t know how to do it, you should get someone that knows to help you. It%26#039;s not a difficult thing to do but it can be dangerous if you don%26#039;t do it right. Air in the lines is dangerous because that means little or no brake pressure.|||It sounds like air has gotten into the lines. You should pick up some of the correct brake fluid and then bleed the brakes. This is a two man job; One to control the bleed valve on the wheel, and one to pump the brake pedal. Bleed all 4 wheels. Make sure a clear stream is coming out without bubbles before tightening each bleed valve.|||it,s your duty to run a safe motor , dont do your own brakes take to a garage and let them fix it
HELP ASAP PLEASE!!!|||did u bleed the brakes properly?sounds like u didnt do that right.u have to open the bleed valve,press the brake,hold the brake,then close the valve back up,while ur foot is still holding the brakes down.do not let go until the valve is closed becuz u will just suck air right back into the line..keep doing it till u see a solid stream of brake fluid come out 3 times.then u have gotten the air out of the lines.do it to both sides.|||I concur with everyone, sounds like air got into the lines. Anytime you have brake fluid coming out like a leak, you can get air in there. If fluid comes out, air can go in. I will add that when you bleed the brakes, start at the wheel farthest from the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. So, in this order bleed the passenger back wheel, then the driver%26#039;s back wheel, then the passenger front wheel, then the driver%26#039;s front wheel. If you don%26#039;t know how to do it, you should get someone that knows to help you. It%26#039;s not a difficult thing to do but it can be dangerous if you don%26#039;t do it right. Air in the lines is dangerous because that means little or no brake pressure.|||It sounds like air has gotten into the lines. You should pick up some of the correct brake fluid and then bleed the brakes. This is a two man job; One to control the bleed valve on the wheel, and one to pump the brake pedal. Bleed all 4 wheels. Make sure a clear stream is coming out without bubbles before tightening each bleed valve.|||it,s your duty to run a safe motor , dont do your own brakes take to a garage and let them fix it
Change 1967 Chevy from drum to disk brakes and from assist to power steering. What years will work?
I have a 1967 chevy c20 2wd heavy 3/4 ton pickup truck. It has 4 wheel drum brakes and power assist steering from the factory. I want to change the front drum brakes to disk, and change the power assist steering to true power steering. I have access to a 1995 Chevy 1 ton truck for parts. I plan on using all of the steering linkage, p.s. pump, control arms, gearbox, spindles, steering shaft, brake booster, and all brake materials from the 1995 to retrofit the 1967. I know you can accomplish this interchange with Chevy trucks up to 1987, but I don%26#039;t know if the newer body styles will also interchange. Any info would be greatly appreciated!|||i did a 69 chevy 1/2 change over of brakes and steering from a 72 and i know they worked just fine. had to change a-arms and install new balljoints, not to hard to do. that gave me disc%26#039;s and the steering upgrade for full power, not power assist steering. there should be interchange books around, sorry i dont know of any sites that might help. good luck. 67%26#039;s-71%26#039;s were the best trucks.|||Well I hope you know how to weld, make parts and have access to a mechanine shop, cause that is what it is gonna take.
You will have to build most of it from scrach. It is not as easy as just swaping parts.
The best advice I can give you is don%26#039;t do it.
If you still want to do the job, then go to a junk yard and borrow there parts interchange book.
This book tell you what parts will and wont interchange with what you want to do.|||Check out: www.hemmingsmotornews.com
They have brake conversion kits for 1967 Chevy%26#039;s. Also, For some real stopping power, install 1967-1969 Corvette brakes and P/S unit.
You will have to build most of it from scrach. It is not as easy as just swaping parts.
The best advice I can give you is don%26#039;t do it.
If you still want to do the job, then go to a junk yard and borrow there parts interchange book.
This book tell you what parts will and wont interchange with what you want to do.|||Check out: www.hemmingsmotornews.com
They have brake conversion kits for 1967 Chevy%26#039;s. Also, For some real stopping power, install 1967-1969 Corvette brakes and P/S unit.
Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
I changed the front rotors and pads in my 02%26#039; Prizm myself, with great success. I just researched how the pads, rotors and calipers work together and how they are housed and bam I bought a couple jack stands, and a jack and I changed my front disc brakes for the first time, taking about 1.5 hrs. Now this car has drum brakes in the back, and I wanted to know how much harder is that to replace for someone like me you think? I now know how drum system%26#039;s work, and have all the tools to change the brakes, but i wanna get an idea of what i should be expecting. Also if you have done this, is there any advice you would give me? Thanks!|||Take a picture of the shoes, springs and all the other stuff BEFORE you take it apart.
You can do it.
Got a spring brake tool?
And retainer tool?
You can do it without them, but it%26#039;s a bugger getting it all back together.
Oh, and a brake adjuster spoon too.|||If you are doing it for the first time it is best to jack up both sides of the car and set on jack stands pull both wheels and drums and use one side as a reference to put the other side back together a few more parts than the front pads but it is easy to do. This is how i learned many many years ago.|||I agree, do one side at a time and use the other as a reference. Its not as easy as disc brakes but you should be able to figure it out. Plan on it taking longer than a few hours your first time Good luck!|||You%26#039;ll need a few drum brake tools - a tool to release and reinstall the springs and a tool to install the keepers against the shoes.
Disassemble one side at a time and lay the springs out on the floor in the position that you removed them. It%26#039;s good to have the other side as a guide if you get confused (keep in mind, it%26#039;s a mirror image - left to right is reversed).
Put a little dab of grease on the tabs where the shoes ride against the backing plate, check the self adjuster for proper operation, slap the drum back on and you should be good to go.
If the pedal seems lower than usual, try tapping the brake while you back up - this will self adjust the brakes.|||its a pain in the *** getting it back together..disc brakes are a breeze compared to drums. need a spring tool of course. also when putting the drum back on the shoes mess with the star wheel to get the shoes to just be scraping the drum by a hair. good luck|||Easier if you are just going to change the drums, just take the old one off and replace it with the new one. But if you are talking about doing the whole back break system, then yes it can be, only because you have to take it a part and put it back together the right way. If you know how it works then you have it half beat.
The only thing I can tell you that will make a difference is that, you should take your time and clean every thing as clean as possible.
Make sure you clean or replace the masters as well as the shoes of course and make sure to bleed the entire system when you are done starting with the one that is farthest from the master break cylinder in the engine compartment which will be the right rear wheel.
Good luck....peace....
You can do it.
Got a spring brake tool?
And retainer tool?
You can do it without them, but it%26#039;s a bugger getting it all back together.
Oh, and a brake adjuster spoon too.|||If you are doing it for the first time it is best to jack up both sides of the car and set on jack stands pull both wheels and drums and use one side as a reference to put the other side back together a few more parts than the front pads but it is easy to do. This is how i learned many many years ago.|||I agree, do one side at a time and use the other as a reference. Its not as easy as disc brakes but you should be able to figure it out. Plan on it taking longer than a few hours your first time Good luck!|||You%26#039;ll need a few drum brake tools - a tool to release and reinstall the springs and a tool to install the keepers against the shoes.
Disassemble one side at a time and lay the springs out on the floor in the position that you removed them. It%26#039;s good to have the other side as a guide if you get confused (keep in mind, it%26#039;s a mirror image - left to right is reversed).
Put a little dab of grease on the tabs where the shoes ride against the backing plate, check the self adjuster for proper operation, slap the drum back on and you should be good to go.
If the pedal seems lower than usual, try tapping the brake while you back up - this will self adjust the brakes.|||its a pain in the *** getting it back together..disc brakes are a breeze compared to drums. need a spring tool of course. also when putting the drum back on the shoes mess with the star wheel to get the shoes to just be scraping the drum by a hair. good luck|||Easier if you are just going to change the drums, just take the old one off and replace it with the new one. But if you are talking about doing the whole back break system, then yes it can be, only because you have to take it a part and put it back together the right way. If you know how it works then you have it half beat.
The only thing I can tell you that will make a difference is that, you should take your time and clean every thing as clean as possible.
Make sure you clean or replace the masters as well as the shoes of course and make sure to bleed the entire system when you are done starting with the one that is farthest from the master break cylinder in the engine compartment which will be the right rear wheel.
Good luck....peace....
How do i change rear drum brakes and what tools do i need?
i like to work on my vehicle myself, so help would be nice thank you...|||You will need to lift and support the car. (Jack and jack stands) You will need lug wrench to remove wheel. You will have to back down the brake shoes (brake adjusting tool) to get the drum off. You might want a large slip joint pliers or tool to remove brake springs. You also want some Brakleen to clean the parts. Go to a good parts store and ask about brake tooks for your car.|||besides the obvious to get the tire off, basic hand tools are all you need to do drums.
Take tire off,
pry off dust cap with screwdriver
remove rotor (sometimes you need a bolt or two and socket to back the rotor off the assembly as they might be frozen on there)
Once off, needle nose pliers to remove the spring clips and spring. (take a picture of the assembly if you%26#039;ve never done it before so you will and see it when you put it back together)
Brake clean etc.
remove and replace the pads etc.|||Go to the local auto parts store and invest in the Chilton%26#039;s or Hayes repair manual for your vehicle! Will be the best investment you ever made and you%26#039;ll be sure to have %26quot;good%26quot; information. On here, there are too many idiots posting stupidity!
Take tire off,
pry off dust cap with screwdriver
remove rotor (sometimes you need a bolt or two and socket to back the rotor off the assembly as they might be frozen on there)
Once off, needle nose pliers to remove the spring clips and spring. (take a picture of the assembly if you%26#039;ve never done it before so you will and see it when you put it back together)
Brake clean etc.
remove and replace the pads etc.|||Go to the local auto parts store and invest in the Chilton%26#039;s or Hayes repair manual for your vehicle! Will be the best investment you ever made and you%26#039;ll be sure to have %26quot;good%26quot; information. On here, there are too many idiots posting stupidity!
I have a 1970s Datsun 120Y and I'd like to change the front-wheel drum brakes to disk brakes to have more stop?
I%26#039;d specially would like to know how to change the brakes without having to do extravagant transformation work in other words doing it myself if possible!|||you will need backing plates spindles rotors calipers find a junk yard that has a vehicle with parts that fit would be best bet it would be quite an under taking why not just replaceall components on existing system ad adjust it properly would be sufficient as designed|||lots of work, and to find a used datsun with these parts is only the start
do not advise
do not advise
Changing from drums to disc brakes on 1964 Lincoln?
I want to change the brakes on my 1964 Lincoln from drums to disc brakes. How do I do that?|||Well, first you will need to find out what kits are available, or what replacement parts you can use.
This swap may require new spindles. It WILL require rotors, calipers, caliper brackets, flexible brake lines, master cylinder, and maybe a brake booster. You will also need either the proper brake bias block, or a manual bias adjuster.
When I changed the brakes in my 69 F100, I used parts from a late 70s pickup because they are interchangable. I used the spindles, rotors and bias block off of a junkyard truck, got rebuilt calipers, and a new master cylinder. I did not install a power assist booster, as I prefer the feel of manual brakes.
Good luck!|||rightnow and GearHeadEngineer.com have very good answers as well. That site would be the way I%26#039;d go, and only $845 is a very good deal.
|||http://www.gearheadengineer.co鈥?/a>
|||That%26#039;s a major re-engineering project. The below URL gives some pertinent information. Don%26#039;t expect a bolt-in swap.|||Check out Danial he is on the money If you follow that procedure you will be fine, hope this helps.|||Don%26#039;t bother. If you do something wrong the car hits something when you are trying to stop and the brakes fail.|||the best way to switch over is to find say a 1965 Lincoln or Mercury that has disc brakes. 1965 was the first year they were standard on all Lincolns and an option on Mercury%26#039;s. All you would have to do is move all the parts over spindle and all its not really all that complicated to do. If there are kits out there they would probably work but I would look for a parts car and switch.|||I designed and manufacture a bolt-on conversion kit, specifically for the 1961-1964 Lincolns. Takes about 2-3 hours to install and works great. Check out our web site:
www.gearheadengineer.com
- John
This swap may require new spindles. It WILL require rotors, calipers, caliper brackets, flexible brake lines, master cylinder, and maybe a brake booster. You will also need either the proper brake bias block, or a manual bias adjuster.
When I changed the brakes in my 69 F100, I used parts from a late 70s pickup because they are interchangable. I used the spindles, rotors and bias block off of a junkyard truck, got rebuilt calipers, and a new master cylinder. I did not install a power assist booster, as I prefer the feel of manual brakes.
Good luck!|||rightnow and GearHeadEngineer.com have very good answers as well. That site would be the way I%26#039;d go, and only $845 is a very good deal.
Report Abuse
|||http://www.gearheadengineer.co鈥?/a>
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|||That%26#039;s a major re-engineering project. The below URL gives some pertinent information. Don%26#039;t expect a bolt-in swap.|||Check out Danial he is on the money If you follow that procedure you will be fine, hope this helps.|||Don%26#039;t bother. If you do something wrong the car hits something when you are trying to stop and the brakes fail.|||the best way to switch over is to find say a 1965 Lincoln or Mercury that has disc brakes. 1965 was the first year they were standard on all Lincolns and an option on Mercury%26#039;s. All you would have to do is move all the parts over spindle and all its not really all that complicated to do. If there are kits out there they would probably work but I would look for a parts car and switch.|||I designed and manufacture a bolt-on conversion kit, specifically for the 1961-1964 Lincolns. Takes about 2-3 hours to install and works great. Check out our web site:
www.gearheadengineer.com
- John
How do I change out Rear drum brake on a 2000 Dodge Neon to make them disk brakes like the front.?
I have a 2000 Dodge Neon 2.0L I bought front/rear drilled and slotted rotors for. I am trying to change out the rear Drum brakes and replace it with an assembly to house calipers so I may use my matching Rotos on the back. I just got new rims and it looks very bad against the new rim.|||this would be an expensive and time consuming conversion.
the brake lines, maybe master cylinder, and rear brake mounts would have to be changed, go to a junk yard and get all the parts off of a vehicle
the brake lines, maybe master cylinder, and rear brake mounts would have to be changed, go to a junk yard and get all the parts off of a vehicle
How do I change my drum brakes for disc brakes on my 1973 Scout II?
The individual drums are $170 per drum, I was wondering if it was cheaper to convert or find another drum that fits.|||It isn%26#039;t a simple matter to change from drum to disk brakes espically on a vehicle this old that was never designed for disk brakes in the first place. You are going to need backing plates and rotors and calipers that will work and then get a proportioning valve for the system. The parts for the conversion are going to be more than the $170 per drum that you are looking at now.|||This isn%26#039;t something you do to save money. This is something you do because you want the improved performance and money is no object!
How to change drum brakes to disc brakes.?
Do anyone know how to change drum brakes to disc brakes on a 1964 Lincoln Continental.|||if u don%26#039;t find a kit to do it on that car, I would caution that u may have to replace other parts like a master cylinder because the pressure for a disk brake is probably not going to be the same as that for a drum. There may be a specific regulator if the pressure is lower, but if it is higher it can%26#039;t be regulated up.|||there are kits available to make this very swap. as i recall the lincoln uses the same spindle as the 66 galaxie and thunderbird, and both of those cars had disc brakes. these cars use a bracket that bolted to the spindle, to which the caliper was then bolted. they also used a two piece rotor and hub assembly. these are available new, but you may have to order them and wait a day or two. as for the rear brakes, there are many kits available to put disc brakes on the ford 9%26quot; rear end. just let the kit supplier know what bearing size you have so they can send you the right bracket. check with master power brakes, and stainless steel brakes for kits front and rear.|||need to find a retro kit it will make it easyer to do|||I doubt you%26#039;ll find a kit to do it (though looking wouldn%26#039;t hurt). Unless disc brakes were an option on that vehicle then a professional mechanic will need to fabricate a solution. We%26#039;re talking big money here.
How hard is it to change drum brakes to disk brakes on a off road motorcycle ?
Yeh , so how hard would it be ? and does any one know a rough cost ?
thanks all|||Depends on what motorcycle and if your talking both front and back brakes. Front disc bakes change- again depending on bike- $100.00 for complete front end of same manufacture from a salvage yard, simplest way. Otherwise you%26#039;re talking disk wheel, caliper, at least one lower leg to mount caliper, and hydraulic master cylinder- salvage yard parts may be 1/2 hundred- new will be $300.00+. You may find a disk adapter kit that would mount to lower leg- Some Hondas with the brake backing plate link bolted to lower leg upgraded late 70s to disc- the caliper was forward mounted and used the drum brake link bolt as mount- This was using the Honda 750 disc brake assembly on some earlier drums and one setup was for Harley legs-that was about $500.00 for new parts at the time. Dirt bikes rear rarely disc, the newer fronts for 250cc up usually are. Find a blown engine frame of same manufacture as your current dirt bike and get the whole front end- could maybe use a street bike frontend if extended forks are available like from Franks. A bent front end goes real cheap-$20.00- you would be using lower legs and disc assembly withnew extended front to get needed height.|||Do you have lugs on the forks to bolt the calipers on to?
Will the wheel accept the disk?
Best bet: buy a new front fork assembly with wheel %26amp; brakes,
that will fit the %26#039;head%26#039; bearing in your frame.|||I swapped a Honda XR 250 to an XR 200. It was a simple swap using the upper and lower triple clamps and fork assembly from the 250. The steering stem had to be pressed out of the old clamp (XR 200) and into the XR 250 clamp. Then it was a simple bolt up process. In addition to gaining a disc front brake I gained an inch of travel. I had $300.00 in parts and about an hour of my own labor. Good luck.
thanks all|||Depends on what motorcycle and if your talking both front and back brakes. Front disc bakes change- again depending on bike- $100.00 for complete front end of same manufacture from a salvage yard, simplest way. Otherwise you%26#039;re talking disk wheel, caliper, at least one lower leg to mount caliper, and hydraulic master cylinder- salvage yard parts may be 1/2 hundred- new will be $300.00+. You may find a disk adapter kit that would mount to lower leg- Some Hondas with the brake backing plate link bolted to lower leg upgraded late 70s to disc- the caliper was forward mounted and used the drum brake link bolt as mount- This was using the Honda 750 disc brake assembly on some earlier drums and one setup was for Harley legs-that was about $500.00 for new parts at the time. Dirt bikes rear rarely disc, the newer fronts for 250cc up usually are. Find a blown engine frame of same manufacture as your current dirt bike and get the whole front end- could maybe use a street bike frontend if extended forks are available like from Franks. A bent front end goes real cheap-$20.00- you would be using lower legs and disc assembly withnew extended front to get needed height.|||Do you have lugs on the forks to bolt the calipers on to?
Will the wheel accept the disk?
Best bet: buy a new front fork assembly with wheel %26amp; brakes,
that will fit the %26#039;head%26#039; bearing in your frame.|||I swapped a Honda XR 250 to an XR 200. It was a simple swap using the upper and lower triple clamps and fork assembly from the 250. The steering stem had to be pressed out of the old clamp (XR 200) and into the XR 250 clamp. Then it was a simple bolt up process. In addition to gaining a disc front brake I gained an inch of travel. I had $300.00 in parts and about an hour of my own labor. Good luck.
How to change drum brakes to disc brakes on a 2000 honda civic.?
I have a 2000 honda civic EX. I have rear drum brakes and i want to convert it to discs. Can anyone tell me how i would be able to do that and can anyone also give me an estimate to how much that could cost.|||Vendor: AEM Performance Products
Part Number: PSL-29-601
Application: 1996-00 CIVIC EX
Item: Rear drum-to-disc conversion kit
$1071 Retail
And the kit will come with full instructions.
I am way off the beaten path, but I am sure you can find a Performance Shop in your area that sells AEM Performance Products and likely get it even cheaper.
And I would think that a competent garage could install this kit in 2 - 4 hours if you are not adventurous enough to install it yourself.
Assuming a labour rate of $50 per hour, you should be able to purchase this kit and have it installed for $1300 at worst.
EDIT: Additional Information
I do not normally do this but the post below mine is so incorrect that I had to say something.
Decreasing the safe stopping distance by over 50% is %26quot;No Benefit What So Ever%26quot; ?
If this was installed on every car, it would likely save tens of thousands of lives and accidents each year.|||I think the best way to sort your prob is by lookin for a crashed car the same mod as yours but wit higher spec which has d parts your lookin fo, ya should be able ta pick 1 up quite cheap and just transfer parts across! just a thought.:D
|||You%26#039;d need to change the proportion valve, brake hoses, calipers, spindles, abs sensors, wiring, not worth it, figure at a shop about 3 grand.|||Why?
Are you spending most of your weekends at Road American or Laguna Seca raceway? If not you will be pissing away thousands of dollars for absolutely no benefit whatsoever.
Part Number: PSL-29-601
Application: 1996-00 CIVIC EX
Item: Rear drum-to-disc conversion kit
$1071 Retail
And the kit will come with full instructions.
I am way off the beaten path, but I am sure you can find a Performance Shop in your area that sells AEM Performance Products and likely get it even cheaper.
And I would think that a competent garage could install this kit in 2 - 4 hours if you are not adventurous enough to install it yourself.
Assuming a labour rate of $50 per hour, you should be able to purchase this kit and have it installed for $1300 at worst.
EDIT: Additional Information
I do not normally do this but the post below mine is so incorrect that I had to say something.
Decreasing the safe stopping distance by over 50% is %26quot;No Benefit What So Ever%26quot; ?
If this was installed on every car, it would likely save tens of thousands of lives and accidents each year.|||I think the best way to sort your prob is by lookin for a crashed car the same mod as yours but wit higher spec which has d parts your lookin fo, ya should be able ta pick 1 up quite cheap and just transfer parts across! just a thought.:D
Report Abuse
|||You%26#039;d need to change the proportion valve, brake hoses, calipers, spindles, abs sensors, wiring, not worth it, figure at a shop about 3 grand.|||Why?
Are you spending most of your weekends at Road American or Laguna Seca raceway? If not you will be pissing away thousands of dollars for absolutely no benefit whatsoever.
How to change drum brakes on 99 Kia Sephia?
I cant get the drum off any suggestions? Am I missing something?
I already took off the two screws on the front but drum does not want to come off!|||try hitting drum with hammer this will usually loosen drum and should pull off. provided you dont have the parking brake applied|||Screws? Sorry, you bought the Foreign thing, It just cost%26#039;s more to fix them.
Suggestion, bfh!|||I have noticed this on a few Asian vehicles with drum brakes. You will see 2 threaded holes on the drum where you need to insert 2 8mm bolts ( M8 X 1.25 I believe). Slowly turn each bolt a little at a time and it will easily pull the drum off. I hope this helps.|||I don%26#039;t know if this applies to a 99 Kia, but you may have to adjust the brake shoes away from the drum. There should be a slot either at the edge of the drum or on the backing plate (or support plate, whetever you call it). You will however need some specialized tools or a couple of screwdrivers.
I already took off the two screws on the front but drum does not want to come off!|||try hitting drum with hammer this will usually loosen drum and should pull off. provided you dont have the parking brake applied|||Screws? Sorry, you bought the Foreign thing, It just cost%26#039;s more to fix them.
Suggestion, bfh!|||I have noticed this on a few Asian vehicles with drum brakes. You will see 2 threaded holes on the drum where you need to insert 2 8mm bolts ( M8 X 1.25 I believe). Slowly turn each bolt a little at a time and it will easily pull the drum off. I hope this helps.|||I don%26#039;t know if this applies to a 99 Kia, but you may have to adjust the brake shoes away from the drum. There should be a slot either at the edge of the drum or on the backing plate (or support plate, whetever you call it). You will however need some specialized tools or a couple of screwdrivers.
Is it possible to change drum brakes to disk brakes?
my 200 honda civic im about to put 16%26quot; rims on it and it wouldn%26#039;t look right with out all disk. so im looking to change the rear disk brakes and just replace the front ones.|||There are kits out there to upgrade many vehicles to disk brakes on the rear. Check out any auto parts store to get an idea of the cost of a kit locally. Then go to the web and check out Stainless Steel Brakes at www.ssbrakes.com. Also check out the local stores for car magazines and you will be able to find ads for several other companies that sell aftermarket brake kits. Good luck %26amp; happy motoring.|||Yes...but it will cost you more money than you%26#039;re going to want to spend (over 1000 likely) to get everything fitted and installed. It involves a lot of fabrication and honestly if you can%26#039;t do it yourself you%26#039;re going to get gouged. Machinists and mechanics will definitely take advantage of you...hell, I would; it%26#039;s a stupid request like installing a spoiler on a kia.
For the guy below who provided a link but didn%26#039;t read it: read the faq. hondaluver(sp?) already listed all the parts that is need.as for the price, if u get it from honda, it would be around $700 total for brand new parts.junk yard and other places would run u between three to five hundred. if you want %26quot;professional installation%26quot; that would be extra of course.|||I%26#039;m guessing that you were typing %26quot;2000%26quot; and left off the last %26quot;0%26quot;. Here%26#039;s a post in the Civic Forums that spells out exactly what you need to convert from drums to disks on a 7th generation Civic. Seems like it gets asked so often that it frustrates veteran users. :-)
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/43-whe鈥?/a>|||dont listen to the first answer. i been fixig import for awhile....2000 civic%26gt;??? easy find a 1999- 01 honda civic si rear dis brakes and there u go everything fits in there since honda makes all the parts to be interchagnable....search the junk yard site i gave|||yes it is possible ask the speed shops in your town if the higher end honda brakes are a direct bolt on with no mods i believe they are like off the ex model which has a bigger motor and four wheel disc brakes
For the guy below who provided a link but didn%26#039;t read it: read the faq. hondaluver(sp?) already listed all the parts that is need.as for the price, if u get it from honda, it would be around $700 total for brand new parts.junk yard and other places would run u between three to five hundred. if you want %26quot;professional installation%26quot; that would be extra of course.|||I%26#039;m guessing that you were typing %26quot;2000%26quot; and left off the last %26quot;0%26quot;. Here%26#039;s a post in the Civic Forums that spells out exactly what you need to convert from drums to disks on a 7th generation Civic. Seems like it gets asked so often that it frustrates veteran users. :-)
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/43-whe鈥?/a>|||dont listen to the first answer. i been fixig import for awhile....2000 civic%26gt;??? easy find a 1999- 01 honda civic si rear dis brakes and there u go everything fits in there since honda makes all the parts to be interchagnable....search the junk yard site i gave|||yes it is possible ask the speed shops in your town if the higher end honda brakes are a direct bolt on with no mods i believe they are like off the ex model which has a bigger motor and four wheel disc brakes
How do i change the drum brakes on my 1986 regal?
I have no clue as to what to do or how to change drum brakes...I dont even know if they are drum or disk brakes, much less the difference between the two... Can someone plesase walk me through or give a good website to learn!!!!!!!!! thanks|||You probably need to go get them done at a repair shop. Brakes are not the place to learn.|||Not a chance to %26quot;walk you through it %26quot; especially if you don%26#039;t know what you%26#039;re working with
find a friend that knows what he%26#039;s doing to work with you at least one time|||front tires are disk brakes. to remove rotor remove tire. then you will see the caliper . need to push the pads back good way to do that is use a screw drive common or flat tip. stick in rotor ( not far just enof to to pry apart) and pull to you and you should see the caliper move and open up..on caliper their are two screws on the back mounted in rubber. most of time they have a Allen head of stair head UN screw them and the caliper will come off and then the rotor will slide off. Use a c clamp to push the pucks back beast way is to use a old pad lay it on the puck and tighten the clamp up till the pad is flush with the caliper. the rear brakes are drum. on the back side you. the backing plate. you will See a rubber plug remove it use a brake spoon or small tip common. stick in slot their is a wheel in their you turn one way tighten the brakes the other way loosen them. one way it will turn easy the other way kinda hard. one way to find out is to spin the wheel and turn the adjusting wheel if tire gets harder to turn the going wrong way. once you get the wheel to turn really easy then take off tire and you will see the drum. pull on it with both hands if wont move then use a hammer and hit the front a few times it should pop off a little then pull it off. hope this helps.|||If you have any mechanical skill the best thing to do is get a book and take plenty of pictures . Do not disassemble bothsides at the same time as you will need the other for reference when you are done . If this is an 1985 Buick Regal rear wheel drive car you have disc in front and drums in the rear . The disc takes a 3/8 allen wrench to take the calipar loose . There are 2 bolts holding it on and once you get it loose you need to back the calipars off to get new pads in . There are several ways to do this one is to use a C-clamp and drive it back . This is the way most people do it and watch to make sure you don%26#039;t pinch the rubber boot around the piston . On the back you have an aguster that needs backed off and it has to go back in the same way it came out or it will loosen up on its own and fall out leaving you with no back brakes . The best way to do one of these the first time is to have someone there who has done this often to help when you get stuck . Books or web sites are fine but experienced eyes are a lot better . Most of the time a buddy or friend might do it for a few beers ( afterward is recommended ) and a good bullshit session while doing this . Good Luck and call a few friends and see who is willing . Don%26#039;t over look chicks either as they can work on cars to or their man can anyway . This is how my wife gets me to do stuff for her friends .|||If a car won%26#039;t start, won%26#039;t run, won%26#039;t accelerate or any of a number of other things it is very annoying.
However, if a car won%26#039;t STOP you have a serious problem, perhaps even a fatal problem. Take your car to a pro or at least get a friend who knows what is happening to show you.
find a friend that knows what he%26#039;s doing to work with you at least one time|||front tires are disk brakes. to remove rotor remove tire. then you will see the caliper . need to push the pads back good way to do that is use a screw drive common or flat tip. stick in rotor ( not far just enof to to pry apart) and pull to you and you should see the caliper move and open up..on caliper their are two screws on the back mounted in rubber. most of time they have a Allen head of stair head UN screw them and the caliper will come off and then the rotor will slide off. Use a c clamp to push the pucks back beast way is to use a old pad lay it on the puck and tighten the clamp up till the pad is flush with the caliper. the rear brakes are drum. on the back side you. the backing plate. you will See a rubber plug remove it use a brake spoon or small tip common. stick in slot their is a wheel in their you turn one way tighten the brakes the other way loosen them. one way it will turn easy the other way kinda hard. one way to find out is to spin the wheel and turn the adjusting wheel if tire gets harder to turn the going wrong way. once you get the wheel to turn really easy then take off tire and you will see the drum. pull on it with both hands if wont move then use a hammer and hit the front a few times it should pop off a little then pull it off. hope this helps.|||If you have any mechanical skill the best thing to do is get a book and take plenty of pictures . Do not disassemble bothsides at the same time as you will need the other for reference when you are done . If this is an 1985 Buick Regal rear wheel drive car you have disc in front and drums in the rear . The disc takes a 3/8 allen wrench to take the calipar loose . There are 2 bolts holding it on and once you get it loose you need to back the calipars off to get new pads in . There are several ways to do this one is to use a C-clamp and drive it back . This is the way most people do it and watch to make sure you don%26#039;t pinch the rubber boot around the piston . On the back you have an aguster that needs backed off and it has to go back in the same way it came out or it will loosen up on its own and fall out leaving you with no back brakes . The best way to do one of these the first time is to have someone there who has done this often to help when you get stuck . Books or web sites are fine but experienced eyes are a lot better . Most of the time a buddy or friend might do it for a few beers ( afterward is recommended ) and a good bullshit session while doing this . Good Luck and call a few friends and see who is willing . Don%26#039;t over look chicks either as they can work on cars to or their man can anyway . This is how my wife gets me to do stuff for her friends .|||If a car won%26#039;t start, won%26#039;t run, won%26#039;t accelerate or any of a number of other things it is very annoying.
However, if a car won%26#039;t STOP you have a serious problem, perhaps even a fatal problem. Take your car to a pro or at least get a friend who knows what is happening to show you.
Has anyone ever changed drum brakes to disc brakes?
I have a 1966 Ford Ranchero project car. It is drivable, but I have two kids in car seats, which don%26#039;t all fit inside, so I don%26#039;t drive it often. When it sits for more than a few months, the %26quot;rubber%26quot; seals in the wheel cylinders get hard and freeze up -- no brakes. I am interested in changing to disc brakes to avoid this.
Has anyone done this themselves?
Is it expensive?
Is it a hassle?
Do you do all four wheels?
I am somewhat mechanically inclined, which is to say I can change out parts without breaking anything. I run into trouble when bolt holes don%26#039;t line up and there are extra parts, etc.
Any advice? Please don%26#039;t say just drive the car more often.|||Letting the car sit for 2-3 months shouldn%26#039;t cause brake failure. I would suspect contamination of water or rust in the brake lines. Have you completely flushed the brake system with new fluid? Use only regular DOT3 fluid, the newer fluids and synthetics can eat the rubber parts in older brake systems. I would also suggest newer rubber lines that go from the frame to the wheel cylinders.
I%26#039;ve got a %26#039;54 Chevy with drum brakes. It was in storage over the past year, and the brakes still work fine. The trick is to use good parts, right fluid, and keep lines clean.|||it would be a rather dificult process. youd essentially be switching out the entire hub assembly, and replacing it with a disk brake setup. i dont know if there are direct swaps available, but it could be done, and has been many times before.|||change out the backing plates and spindles to disk you can get those out of junk yard off of Galaxy 500 or mercury only change the front. get back with me for more info. hotwheelzfuzzytoolboxx@yahoo.com 30 years exp.|||You can do only the front brakes and be OK. Most of your stopping power comes from the front brakes. You would need a proportioning valve to balance the front and rear brakes, otherwise you will have a condition where your brakes will want to lock up too easily.
Expect to pay at least $1000 for the conversion.
Follow the link below for a place to start|||Yes, it%26#039;s expensive, and as it%26#039;s a 66, it most likely never came with disc option so it may be difficult to match or retrofit hubs, rotors, calipers, etc. You%26#039;ll probably have to adjust the brake metering, too. I don%26#039;t often mess with stuff like that so I forget what that little bit is called right now Yes, it is a hassle. You want to do at least the front, if you don%26#039;t do it all the way around.
I strongly recommend you do not cheap out and use junk yard parts if you decide to do the research to find out what will fit. If you go to a Ford tuners forum, they may be able to point you in the right direction with a drum to disc swap. Be warned about tuner forums though, they%26#039;re all over chicks like flies on ... you know.|||yes: but it is expensive and much more involved than backyard mechanics .. seek professional help ...
many autos have disc front and drum rear.. this is widely accepted. if your wheel cylinder seals get hard in a few months . i would talk to a professional mechanic . something is wrong !!!
your life and the life of your children are riding on those brakes.. that%26#039;s something to think about . when you are in the driveway tinkering with them ...|||It is a bit of a job, but ther are kit conversons available. Some are good and some require work to adapt. Ususally only the front brakes are converted. However, conversons are usually done to improve stopping power. I had a ranchero and it sat for over a year with no problems, so I wonder what is the cause of your failure. the only problem I ever had was the head gasket. Had to replace every 60,000 miles or so. I loved that car, was so easy to work on and very economical to operate.|||O-k well, In newer cars or trucks that have drum brakes in the rear they usually have an option for a model with disk brakes that you can steel the rear axle with all the needed components already on it.In the case of one as old as yours,you need to find out what options were sold from factory in that year for that car.I do believe they did make front disk brake option for that vehicle but they all were rear drum brakes.So, What you will need to do for the rear is to check on rear differential (complete Axel assembly) possibilities to other model cars around the same year range that came with a rear disk brake option.Which from my recollection will be nearly impossible considering there wasn%26#039;t alot of vehicles with rear disk brakes as an option around that time period.
So what you will have to do is find a newer model car where the measurements are the same and the spring set up is the same.My suggestions to check are a ford Mustang.1983-1990. Or a Chevy elcamino which I recall had disk rear as an option at 1984 and after.Its not same manufacture but if measurements and spring pockets are the same and rear end gearing is similar,with a little modification it should fit.|||Yes the front drum brakes can be converted to disk.
the conversion requires that the spindles, proportioning valve, master cylinder and power booster(if power brake) be changed.
the spindles could be used but all other parts should be purchased new.
I believe you can use same year LTD or Galaxie parts but I am not positive so check with a Ford shop or a recking yard that sells used parts either should be able to confirm this.
changing only the drum brakes to disc brakes without changing the proportioning valve and master cylinder would not be a safe conversion. disc brake are more efficient and require less pressure that drum brake so a proportioning valve used for drum brakes when used for disc brakes would cause uneven braking. also disc brake require a greater volume of brake fluid that drum brakes. this requires the master cylinder be changed.
if safety is your main concern do all or none!
Has anyone done this themselves?
Is it expensive?
Is it a hassle?
Do you do all four wheels?
I am somewhat mechanically inclined, which is to say I can change out parts without breaking anything. I run into trouble when bolt holes don%26#039;t line up and there are extra parts, etc.
Any advice? Please don%26#039;t say just drive the car more often.|||Letting the car sit for 2-3 months shouldn%26#039;t cause brake failure. I would suspect contamination of water or rust in the brake lines. Have you completely flushed the brake system with new fluid? Use only regular DOT3 fluid, the newer fluids and synthetics can eat the rubber parts in older brake systems. I would also suggest newer rubber lines that go from the frame to the wheel cylinders.
I%26#039;ve got a %26#039;54 Chevy with drum brakes. It was in storage over the past year, and the brakes still work fine. The trick is to use good parts, right fluid, and keep lines clean.|||it would be a rather dificult process. youd essentially be switching out the entire hub assembly, and replacing it with a disk brake setup. i dont know if there are direct swaps available, but it could be done, and has been many times before.|||change out the backing plates and spindles to disk you can get those out of junk yard off of Galaxy 500 or mercury only change the front. get back with me for more info. hotwheelzfuzzytoolboxx@yahoo.com 30 years exp.|||You can do only the front brakes and be OK. Most of your stopping power comes from the front brakes. You would need a proportioning valve to balance the front and rear brakes, otherwise you will have a condition where your brakes will want to lock up too easily.
Expect to pay at least $1000 for the conversion.
Follow the link below for a place to start|||Yes, it%26#039;s expensive, and as it%26#039;s a 66, it most likely never came with disc option so it may be difficult to match or retrofit hubs, rotors, calipers, etc. You%26#039;ll probably have to adjust the brake metering, too. I don%26#039;t often mess with stuff like that so I forget what that little bit is called right now Yes, it is a hassle. You want to do at least the front, if you don%26#039;t do it all the way around.
I strongly recommend you do not cheap out and use junk yard parts if you decide to do the research to find out what will fit. If you go to a Ford tuners forum, they may be able to point you in the right direction with a drum to disc swap. Be warned about tuner forums though, they%26#039;re all over chicks like flies on ... you know.|||yes: but it is expensive and much more involved than backyard mechanics .. seek professional help ...
many autos have disc front and drum rear.. this is widely accepted. if your wheel cylinder seals get hard in a few months . i would talk to a professional mechanic . something is wrong !!!
your life and the life of your children are riding on those brakes.. that%26#039;s something to think about . when you are in the driveway tinkering with them ...|||It is a bit of a job, but ther are kit conversons available. Some are good and some require work to adapt. Ususally only the front brakes are converted. However, conversons are usually done to improve stopping power. I had a ranchero and it sat for over a year with no problems, so I wonder what is the cause of your failure. the only problem I ever had was the head gasket. Had to replace every 60,000 miles or so. I loved that car, was so easy to work on and very economical to operate.|||O-k well, In newer cars or trucks that have drum brakes in the rear they usually have an option for a model with disk brakes that you can steel the rear axle with all the needed components already on it.In the case of one as old as yours,you need to find out what options were sold from factory in that year for that car.I do believe they did make front disk brake option for that vehicle but they all were rear drum brakes.So, What you will need to do for the rear is to check on rear differential (complete Axel assembly) possibilities to other model cars around the same year range that came with a rear disk brake option.Which from my recollection will be nearly impossible considering there wasn%26#039;t alot of vehicles with rear disk brakes as an option around that time period.
So what you will have to do is find a newer model car where the measurements are the same and the spring set up is the same.My suggestions to check are a ford Mustang.1983-1990. Or a Chevy elcamino which I recall had disk rear as an option at 1984 and after.Its not same manufacture but if measurements and spring pockets are the same and rear end gearing is similar,with a little modification it should fit.|||Yes the front drum brakes can be converted to disk.
the conversion requires that the spindles, proportioning valve, master cylinder and power booster(if power brake) be changed.
the spindles could be used but all other parts should be purchased new.
I believe you can use same year LTD or Galaxie parts but I am not positive so check with a Ford shop or a recking yard that sells used parts either should be able to confirm this.
changing only the drum brakes to disc brakes without changing the proportioning valve and master cylinder would not be a safe conversion. disc brake are more efficient and require less pressure that drum brake so a proportioning valve used for drum brakes when used for disc brakes would cause uneven braking. also disc brake require a greater volume of brake fluid that drum brakes. this requires the master cylinder be changed.
if safety is your main concern do all or none!
Is it necessary to replace the springs when changing drum brake pads?
My %26#039;96 Buick Skylark needs new rear brake pads, I plan to do it myself for the first time and have watched a few youtube clips; the professional auto repair vids. say all the hardware should be replaced.... but does it have to be? Do the springs really wear out as fast as the pads, or can they be reused? Personal experience or expert advice appreciated!|||they dont wear out but they do rust and break, I always replace hardware. Its cheap insurance, if a spring breaks it usually ruins the drum.|||I%26#039;ve reused them several time, they don%26#039;t usually wear out for 10 years or more, then they will break. You can reuse them once.|||YOU DON%26#039;T HAVE TO IF THEY ARE IN GOOD SHAPE BUT THE RULE OF THUMB IS TO REPLACE THEM SO THAT YOU ARE SURE THEY ARE PULLING THE SHOES BACK TO THE WHEEL CYLINDERS LIKE THEY SHOULD.|||generally you don%26#039;t need to replace them, I have never had to replace a brake spring, except for the one or 2 il lost.
How do you change drum brakes on a rwd dodge dakota?
Can anyone explain this in detail or please give me a site to to go where it explains it and also uses pictures? It%26#039;s easier to understand that way since i cant read the instructions while i change them|||First, you need to have the right brake tools. Any parts store has them, but without them, your just giving yourself more misery than anything else. The easiest way to do any drum brake is one side at a time, and use the other side as a reference. Take off one spring at a time, and put it on the ground in front of you in the position it goes on the truck. A soft cover Chilton book for your specific truck is extremely helpful, as it has the pics, and step bt step instructions, also available at a parts store. Another is Chilton DIY.com, it costs like 20 bucks a year, but you have the entire service manual right there if you need it. Good luck.|||buy a chiltons or haynes manual,step by step, pictures, 25$ at autozone you gotta get the brakes there anyway, sometimes they can print it for you off their compu
Spongy Brakes on 1995 Toyota Corolla after changing rear drum brakes?
My Husband and a friend just changed the rear drum brakes on my 1995 Toyota Corolla and now the brakes feel spongy and the emergency brake does not work. He thinks that maybe the star aligner might not have set properly and the front brakes are what is causing the sponginess. I know that the drum brakes should not need to be bled but do we need to bleed the front brakes anyway because we changed the rears? The front brakes were changed about 18 months ago.|||Well... if they didn%26#039;t touch the wheel cylinders back there, there shouldn%26#039;t be air in the system. When you hold the pedal to the floor, does it slow sink down towards the floorboard? If it does, you%26#039;ve got air. If not, I would try adjusting the rears. Drums are a PITA...|||sounds like you have a broken break line in the back or they probably didn%26#039;t bleed the breaks.|||Sounds like air in the brake lines. I would suggest bleeding the system.|||http://autorepair.about.com/od/troublesh鈥?/a>|||You need to bleed the air out of your system and it will solve your problem|||%26quot;spongy%26quot; brakes mean there is air in the lines,bleed BOTH the front and rear brakes,if you opened the master cylinder/fluid reservoir,you could have inadvertantly captured air in the system.Did you %26quot;adjust%26quot; the rear brakes when you put on the new drums? You should have adjusted the shoes so that the pads gently scrape against the inside of drum when slipping on the new drums,if you didn%26#039;t do this, you need to re-do it.|||The shoes can hung up sideways, you pull %26amp; yank. He probably jarred %26amp; aggrevated the wheel cylinder internally, from the outside pins, making it leak internally. It sounds like he did more than change drums. He probably changed shoes also. There are adjusters %26amp; lots of parts that move. It may not have been put back together right.
EI want to change drum brakes to disc brakes on a 69 mustang. Does annyone know what year disc brake set ups w
I need to swap out drum brakes for front disc brakes on a 69 Mustang. I don%26#039;t havean interchange book, but I know there are a few years of Ford parts that will fit at a fraction of the cost of conversions|||the 69 to 73 should work, they were a available on most Mustangs.
Boss 409? I think your mean Boss 429|||Disc brakes were availible as an option in 69.
cars with hipo engines had them. like a boss 409 or a boss 302.
Boss 409? I think your mean Boss 429|||Disc brakes were availible as an option in 69.
cars with hipo engines had them. like a boss 409 or a boss 302.
Changing Drum brakes to disc ,is it that easy ? ?
i have a toyota corola 2007 and wana change the brakes of all 4 tyers from drum to disc brakes, is it that easy , or do i need to change other things, coz i heard theres some controller that is programed with the drum brakes and if i put disc it might mess it up or something ?
thanks|||not so easy....especially if you have anti lock brake,s....disc brake,s distribute approx.75% to front/25% to rear...as where drum brake,s distribute approx. 60% front/40% rear...changing over would involve...master , line,s %26amp; hose,s , proportioning valve , wheel spindel,s , bracket,s , antilock sensor,s , %26amp; antilock computer...and probably a few other thing,s I havent thought of.....it would be much easier if you had a donor car....good luck!|||Since your car already has decent disks on the front I would leave the drums on the rear. The cost to replace them would not be worth the expense. The fronts do most of the actual stopping so your improvement to cost ratio would be very low. Spend the money on gas and save some for when you smash something or need a new timing belt. You will be glad you did.
thanks|||not so easy....especially if you have anti lock brake,s....disc brake,s distribute approx.75% to front/25% to rear...as where drum brake,s distribute approx. 60% front/40% rear...changing over would involve...master , line,s %26amp; hose,s , proportioning valve , wheel spindel,s , bracket,s , antilock sensor,s , %26amp; antilock computer...and probably a few other thing,s I havent thought of.....it would be much easier if you had a donor car....good luck!|||Since your car already has decent disks on the front I would leave the drums on the rear. The cost to replace them would not be worth the expense. The fronts do most of the actual stopping so your improvement to cost ratio would be very low. Spend the money on gas and save some for when you smash something or need a new timing belt. You will be glad you did.
Any good websites that teach you how to change drum brakes?
I%26#039;m pretty good at changing rotors and front brakes but I%26#039;ve never bothered with the drums. There are plenty of sites that teach you how to do the front brakes, what about drum brakes?
Do you need special tools to do this job or any special knowledge?|||Try here:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityours鈥?/a>
good luck|||using jack stands get both drums off. this is sometimes the hardest part. then do one side at a time so you can look at the other side to see how it goes when you can%26#039;t remember. After the drums are off it is a 2 minute job on some cars, 2 hour on others. Brake spring tools are nice to have but not necessary. Check the hydraulic cylinders as they are prone to leaking when new shoes are installed. They are pushed back up into their bore where rust will be if the car is old and water has made it into the brake fluid. Do not try to get by without having the drums turned or replaced unless you really didn%26#039;t care about the brakes anyway.|||drums are a pain in the ***...but they at the same time are simple its just a matter of remembering where the springs and adjusting the adjuster right. just remember how you took them off and youll be fine putting them back on..there isnt really a universal way to take them off because all drum setups are different...just take a picture when you take the drum off so you can see how they went or do 1 side at a time and youll be able to see how the other side went|||SAME IDEA AS FRONT. JUST REMEMBER TO LEAVE E BRAKE OFF. There is an adjustment on the inside of the drum you acces through a hole on the side to loosen your shoes. Its pretty much a gear . I just use a screwdriver to turn it until it frees up the drums. sometimes ya gotta bang on drums to get them off|||Best to get a manual as there are specific needs for serviceing emergency barkes (attachec) and adkusting them that make them more complicated than disc brakes...and you may need some spring tools and an adjusting tool|||Been a while since i%26#039;ve done a drum but easy enough, just make sure the cylinder is not leaking when you put it back together.|||znet.com supported by autozone and alldata repiar services|||What kind of vehicle do you own? I think Autozone.com has step by step directions with pictures.
-Olivia
OH and DO NOT step on the brake pedal with the drum off!! You will blow out your wheel cylinders lol
Do you need special tools to do this job or any special knowledge?|||Try here:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityours鈥?/a>
good luck|||using jack stands get both drums off. this is sometimes the hardest part. then do one side at a time so you can look at the other side to see how it goes when you can%26#039;t remember. After the drums are off it is a 2 minute job on some cars, 2 hour on others. Brake spring tools are nice to have but not necessary. Check the hydraulic cylinders as they are prone to leaking when new shoes are installed. They are pushed back up into their bore where rust will be if the car is old and water has made it into the brake fluid. Do not try to get by without having the drums turned or replaced unless you really didn%26#039;t care about the brakes anyway.|||drums are a pain in the ***...but they at the same time are simple its just a matter of remembering where the springs and adjusting the adjuster right. just remember how you took them off and youll be fine putting them back on..there isnt really a universal way to take them off because all drum setups are different...just take a picture when you take the drum off so you can see how they went or do 1 side at a time and youll be able to see how the other side went|||SAME IDEA AS FRONT. JUST REMEMBER TO LEAVE E BRAKE OFF. There is an adjustment on the inside of the drum you acces through a hole on the side to loosen your shoes. Its pretty much a gear . I just use a screwdriver to turn it until it frees up the drums. sometimes ya gotta bang on drums to get them off|||Best to get a manual as there are specific needs for serviceing emergency barkes (attachec) and adkusting them that make them more complicated than disc brakes...and you may need some spring tools and an adjusting tool|||Been a while since i%26#039;ve done a drum but easy enough, just make sure the cylinder is not leaking when you put it back together.|||znet.com supported by autozone and alldata repiar services|||What kind of vehicle do you own? I think Autozone.com has step by step directions with pictures.
-Olivia
OH and DO NOT step on the brake pedal with the drum off!! You will blow out your wheel cylinders lol
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