i just had my 95 suburban checked out thoroughly. its a good runner with not much major work needed.
i didnt pay much for it , and just bought it, so i expect to put a little money into it.
my brakes are the only thing i need done. here is what i need: 3 brake hoses, 1 drum, 4 tire rods and sleeves, 4 balljoints, 1 idler arm, and 1 pitmen arm.
the brakes arent giving me trouble and i thought it was just the pads need changing. now when i stop sometimes, they squeak, just a little. also the wheel in the rear locks up real quick when i hit the brakes. i have no other problems.
i am getting all this done, but not at once. i have to do whats more important first. what should i get changed first?
I need some help with my brakes..... please?
you need more than brake work. the brake work is the most important because it's a safety issue. but the other stuff has to do with steering and can also lead to accidents.
I need some help with my brakes..... please?
Quote: %26quot;also the wheel in the rear locks up real quick when I hit the brakes.%26quot;
Check both rear brakes for a leaking wheel cylinder. Leaking wheel cylinders flow brake fluid on to the rear shoes causing grabbing or locking brakes.
1. replace leaking wheel cylinders...
2. replace brake pads and shoes as needed...
3. tackle frontend work ball joints, tie-rod ends, et cetera...
Does this help any?
Friday 7 October 2011
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
I am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum puller
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum puller
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Do you have to oil them??
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
never put oil on the brake drums or brake shoes.
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Oh my lord !! Who told you to oil the drums and shoes ? He oughtta be slapped for trying to get you killed !! Did he tell you to check your flasher fluid, your muffler bearings, your high-speed lock-washer indicator adjustment locator screw too ??? I hope you are NOWHERE around me when yer driving !
There is no such term as brake oil. Brake fluid yes, but that's for the reservoir, and the brake lines to the calipers, and wheel cylinders. To put a lubricant on the certain areas of pads, and shoes, you can use lithium grease, sparingly.
none, just some lube on the backing plates where the shoe's contact ( the small flat spots on the plate only)
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
never put oil on the brake drums or brake shoes.
What kind of brake oil do you put on your brake drums and shoes when you change them?
Oh my lord !! Who told you to oil the drums and shoes ? He oughtta be slapped for trying to get you killed !! Did he tell you to check your flasher fluid, your muffler bearings, your high-speed lock-washer indicator adjustment locator screw too ??? I hope you are NOWHERE around me when yer driving !
There is no such term as brake oil. Brake fluid yes, but that's for the reservoir, and the brake lines to the calipers, and wheel cylinders. To put a lubricant on the certain areas of pads, and shoes, you can use lithium grease, sparingly.
none, just some lube on the backing plates where the shoe's contact ( the small flat spots on the plate only)
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
hi,
i have a 93 toyota corolla with front disk brakes and rear drum breakes. i just changed the rear brakes and got the front brakes services.
now when ever i brake on high speed some kind of noise (like scratching or some thing hitting something) came from passenger front side.
the streeing wheel also shakes while braking.
an other thing. i feel kind of echo sound (woo, woo) while driving above 100 KM/H.
before changing the brakes and front end service brakes these problems were not there
pls advise what to do
thaks
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
You could have a pad sticking and it is heating up. When you apply your break it applies uneven pressure onto the pads and it could be causing the noise.
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
i own a repair shop,and to me it sounds like you have a warped rotor on it,and that would seem impossible ,considering that you just had them done,but that's what it sounds like,they may have actually turned a rotor down to far on it or goofed up when turning it,and got it out of round,id take it back,because its not supposed to sound like that at all,it should be really smooth,and quiet when braking,so id take this back to them,and tell them to fix it,you done paid for it once,and there's no sense in paying again to get it repaired,i have seen some shops make brakes worse than they was,and this sounds like what may have happened to you this time,but take it back,money is too hard to come by to let this one go,good luck i hope this helps.
the front brakes were service??? what the hell does that mean?? they charged you for that bud ? ether the front brake pads are bad or there not, there's nothing in between!!!
all rotors and drums need to be turn to make them round again so when you hit the brake the car does not shake..
have them double check there work they are guaranteed .....
Sounds like they need to be bled, did you bleed them after replacing the rear drums?
sounds like your wheel bearing is making the noise i would bring this car back to where you serviced it
i have a 93 toyota corolla with front disk brakes and rear drum breakes. i just changed the rear brakes and got the front brakes services.
now when ever i brake on high speed some kind of noise (like scratching or some thing hitting something) came from passenger front side.
the streeing wheel also shakes while braking.
an other thing. i feel kind of echo sound (woo, woo) while driving above 100 KM/H.
before changing the brakes and front end service brakes these problems were not there
pls advise what to do
thaks
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
You could have a pad sticking and it is heating up. When you apply your break it applies uneven pressure onto the pads and it could be causing the noise.
Noise from front brake.when apply break at high speed above 80Km/H?
i own a repair shop,and to me it sounds like you have a warped rotor on it,and that would seem impossible ,considering that you just had them done,but that's what it sounds like,they may have actually turned a rotor down to far on it or goofed up when turning it,and got it out of round,id take it back,because its not supposed to sound like that at all,it should be really smooth,and quiet when braking,so id take this back to them,and tell them to fix it,you done paid for it once,and there's no sense in paying again to get it repaired,i have seen some shops make brakes worse than they was,and this sounds like what may have happened to you this time,but take it back,money is too hard to come by to let this one go,good luck i hope this helps.
the front brakes were service??? what the hell does that mean?? they charged you for that bud ? ether the front brake pads are bad or there not, there's nothing in between!!!
all rotors and drums need to be turn to make them round again so when you hit the brake the car does not shake..
have them double check there work they are guaranteed .....
Sounds like they need to be bled, did you bleed them after replacing the rear drums?
sounds like your wheel bearing is making the noise i would bring this car back to where you serviced it
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
I have a red brake light on i just had my rear brakes changed but the light is still on what makes that light go on? i cant seem to find anything around the drum or brake shoes wear would the sensor be or what would set it off how can i fix this?
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
sensor is usually on the master cylinder and is telling you you have low fluid check that
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
An '83 Ram PU isn't going to have a low fluid level warning light. That's just the normal brake warning light, which is triggered by a sensor in your proportioning valve (a little metal block that the 2 lines from the master go into, and then 3-4 lines come out to the wheels, just below the master). It shows that there is some sort of an imbalance in pressure between the 2 brake circuits. A lot of times it will be on after a brake job because the wheel cylinders got pushed back in to make room for the new shoes. It will usually go out after you press the brake pedal a few times. If not, it could be that the proportioning valve needs to be reset, or the wheel cylinders started leaking when they were pushed in. Normally, it will come on if you have a fluid leak, air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder plunger.creating file msdn
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
sensor is usually on the master cylinder and is telling you you have low fluid check that
Brake light on 1983 dodge power ram 150?
An '83 Ram PU isn't going to have a low fluid level warning light. That's just the normal brake warning light, which is triggered by a sensor in your proportioning valve (a little metal block that the 2 lines from the master go into, and then 3-4 lines come out to the wheels, just below the master). It shows that there is some sort of an imbalance in pressure between the 2 brake circuits. A lot of times it will be on after a brake job because the wheel cylinders got pushed back in to make room for the new shoes. It will usually go out after you press the brake pedal a few times. If not, it could be that the proportioning valve needs to be reset, or the wheel cylinders started leaking when they were pushed in. Normally, it will come on if you have a fluid leak, air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder plunger.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Doesn't this have disk brakes on the back too? Rotors and pads are easy fairly to change.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Find a good independent shop, that specializes in european cars. Hard to give you advice on what shop, since you don't give your general location.
I have a VW New Beetle, so I know.
This thing, you can do in your driveway.
The only tool you may not have is the calipher tool to rotate the back caliphers to install back brake pads. That you can loan from autozone. You can get more info on online forums like www.newbeetle.org or a passat forum.
To save $$$, you can buy the parts yourself, and just have them installed by the garage.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
why do you need to change the drums ? , Surely there are plenty of shadetree mechanics around, ask one of them to do it, and for how much
i'm not sure whether you are talking front or rear as pads arein front with roters/discs. drums are in back with shoes. that said, if in front it is best to change the rotors with the pads. ask for the cheapest. pads you will find different qualitys for your driving habits. a cheap pad if you are severe on brakes will not be the best deal. shoes in the back may be replaced with the cheaper makes as they usually last a long time. inspect the drums before deciding to replace. if all goes well you should not pay more than 1 hour labor. ask friends for a reliable garage or backyard mecano. you get what you pay for and its your life.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
Find a good independent shop, that specializes in european cars. Hard to give you advice on what shop, since you don't give your general location.
I have a VW New Beetle, so I know.
This thing, you can do in your driveway.
The only tool you may not have is the calipher tool to rotate the back caliphers to install back brake pads. That you can loan from autozone. You can get more info on online forums like www.newbeetle.org or a passat forum.
To save $$$, you can buy the parts yourself, and just have them installed by the garage.
To change both brake pads+drums on a 98 VW passat, could you please suggest a cheap place and rough estimate?
why do you need to change the drums ? , Surely there are plenty of shadetree mechanics around, ask one of them to do it, and for how much
i'm not sure whether you are talking front or rear as pads arein front with roters/discs. drums are in back with shoes. that said, if in front it is best to change the rotors with the pads. ask for the cheapest. pads you will find different qualitys for your driving habits. a cheap pad if you are severe on brakes will not be the best deal. shoes in the back may be replaced with the cheaper makes as they usually last a long time. inspect the drums before deciding to replace. if all goes well you should not pay more than 1 hour labor. ask friends for a reliable garage or backyard mecano. you get what you pay for and its your life.
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
changing over from a auto to a t-5 5 speed. using 70 torino pedal assembly going into auto drum brake ps car no pb
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
Yes as long as you have all the parts from the torino to include what bolts up to the motor and the body.The lower rod should have the
adjuster while you have it off unscrew it along with the lock nut wire brush the threads light coat of grease reinstall.If your top rod has ajustment do the same to it.Not sure on that model
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
did ford even make a Cougar with a stik ?in 70. use a measure . you may have to go older or a different car. you will no doubt be making your own brackets or modifying what you get. i would check with junk yard cross reference...
should but might make right part for car if not even a ford truck might work same years of any ford might
Yes, I believe so.
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
Yes as long as you have all the parts from the torino to include what bolts up to the motor and the body.The lower rod should have the
adjuster while you have it off unscrew it along with the lock nut wire brush the threads light coat of grease reinstall.If your top rod has ajustment do the same to it.Not sure on that model
Will a clutch pedal assembly from a 1970 ford torino fit in a 1970 mercury cougar?
did ford even make a Cougar with a stik ?in 70. use a measure . you may have to go older or a different car. you will no doubt be making your own brackets or modifying what you get. i would check with junk yard cross reference...
should but might make right part for car if not even a ford truck might work same years of any ford might
Yes, I believe so.
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
go to the dealer and have them fix it
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
If you aren't familiar with standard drum brake service, then I would recommend either purchasing a service manual for the car, or taking it in for service. There are too many possible details to cover here without having a lot of liability, so the service manual is a good cheap place to start.
Are you just wanting to check the brakes, or did someone tell you that they need to be changed? They typically aren't that hard to remove unless they've been on for a long time. Sometimes they rust to the center hub, and also sometimes a ridge of rust can form on the back outer lip preventing them from clearing the shoes. For this the shoes need to be retracted - again, see the service manual, or let a trained technician do the job.
Where I am, brake work can only legally be done by the vehicle owner, or a licensed technician.
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
does any one else hate this Lamborghini guy what a douche bag
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
If you aren't familiar with standard drum brake service, then I would recommend either purchasing a service manual for the car, or taking it in for service. There are too many possible details to cover here without having a lot of liability, so the service manual is a good cheap place to start.
Are you just wanting to check the brakes, or did someone tell you that they need to be changed? They typically aren't that hard to remove unless they've been on for a long time. Sometimes they rust to the center hub, and also sometimes a ridge of rust can form on the back outer lip preventing them from clearing the shoes. For this the shoes need to be retracted - again, see the service manual, or let a trained technician do the job.
Where I am, brake work can only legally be done by the vehicle owner, or a licensed technician.
How do i change the rear brake drums on a 2001 pontiac sunfire.?
does any one else hate this Lamborghini guy what a douche bag
Brakes squeal when there hot ...?
i have a 1990 Buick lesabre. i recently changes my brake pads and found out later the mechanic that put them in twisted the hose line so there was no brake fluid going threw. so i took it to a different mechanic and he just sprayed the pads with something and then SPRAYED MY ROTORS WITH WD/40. none of that was any good and a few people told me the guy was an idiot. i guess spraying the rotors was bad. so then i take it to another mechanic and he said my brake pedal felt spongy and he heard clicking when braking. so he said he turned the rotors greased the pads and drums and bled the brakes. well that was a waste of time and money because they still squeal. when i start driving in the morning after the car has been sitting all night the brakes don't make any noise when i brake but after driving a little while they slowly start to squeal and by the time i make it back home my brakes sound like school bus. i have told every mechanic this and every time i bring it in they do different stuff and charge me an arm n leg and its still not fixed . i don't know what to do or what is the problem. maybe if i knew what was causing the squeal i could tell them exactly what to do. instead of getting jerked around. if someone can help me with some advice or what to do i or what it could be i would greatly appreciate it =)
Brakes squeal when there hot ...?
I would say to fix your problem is to get new calipers and rotors and put on if your problem is in the front disc brake set up.I work on brakes and I have never heard of these type of stupid tricks people put on other people like this while working on there cars.If I was there I would be willing to fix it right.I have never heard of anyone placing WD 40 on rotors unless they are just spraying the studs to mount the tire back on and to make it easier for the lug nuts to go back on.Is the noise coming from the front or the back brakes?.But there is a spray that is to be used for cleaning the brake pads which is called brak-leen this is to remove build up of glaze on the pads and brake shoes and rotors and drums.Did they do a over haul job on the back wheel cylinders or replace them?.I would really like to know what was really done.if you could email me with other question or what you know other than what is on here about it I could help you.Too bad I wasnt there i would fix them.Thanks! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Brakes squeal when there hot ...?
I would say to fix your problem is to get new calipers and rotors and put on if your problem is in the front disc brake set up.I work on brakes and I have never heard of these type of stupid tricks people put on other people like this while working on there cars.If I was there I would be willing to fix it right.I have never heard of anyone placing WD 40 on rotors unless they are just spraying the studs to mount the tire back on and to make it easier for the lug nuts to go back on.Is the noise coming from the front or the back brakes?.But there is a spray that is to be used for cleaning the brake pads which is called brak-leen this is to remove build up of glaze on the pads and brake shoes and rotors and drums.Did they do a over haul job on the back wheel cylinders or replace them?.I would really like to know what was really done.if you could email me with other question or what you know other than what is on here about it I could help you.Too bad I wasnt there i would fix them.Thanks! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
I HAVE A 62 IMPALA THAT WAS WEARING A TIRE ON ONE SIDE, SHOP SAID NEEDED NEW UPPER BALL JOINTS... I CHANGED THOSE AND THE LOWER BALL JOINTS, HAD IT ALIGNED AND NOW THE FRONT END SHAKES WHEN I STOP?? BEFORE ANYTHING WAS WORKED ON IT DROVE PERFECTLY. ??
I ALSO HAVE A 64 IMPALA THAT HADNT BEEN DRIVEN IN 20+ YEARS SO I CHANGED DRUMS AND BRAKES AND THIS ONE SHAKES AS I STOP AS WELL...
ANY HELP??
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
shocks/springs, both tires, a-arm bushings etc, bearings???
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
There probably two diffrent problems. master cylinder problem or a valve problem would be my guess
If the shaking only occurs when you attempt to stop the vehicle then it is usually from warped brake rotors. Also your brake caliper piston might need to be re-honed if the piston is coming out crooked.
you might wanna get the whole steering and suspension checked out because that will cause it to do that. the 62 might have warped brake parts that will cause it to do that, and the 64 might have the steering and suspension problems or vise versa
all of the above plus front brakes itself. rotor turned when front brake job was done?new hair styles Fish
I ALSO HAVE A 64 IMPALA THAT HADNT BEEN DRIVEN IN 20+ YEARS SO I CHANGED DRUMS AND BRAKES AND THIS ONE SHAKES AS I STOP AS WELL...
ANY HELP??
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
shocks/springs, both tires, a-arm bushings etc, bearings???
My front end shakes when I brake.. ?? (62-64 impala)?
There probably two diffrent problems. master cylinder problem or a valve problem would be my guess
If the shaking only occurs when you attempt to stop the vehicle then it is usually from warped brake rotors. Also your brake caliper piston might need to be re-honed if the piston is coming out crooked.
you might wanna get the whole steering and suspension checked out because that will cause it to do that. the 62 might have warped brake parts that will cause it to do that, and the 64 might have the steering and suspension problems or vise versa
all of the above plus front brakes itself. rotor turned when front brake job was done?
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
Ive just had the front brake pads and discs changed wich made the ABS light go off, but now theres a red circle with a line on either side. Ive had the back drums changed too. Could this be the brake light sensor? if so, will it fail the MOT?
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
there is a sensor on the front left and right rear they should have been change try this get in leave driver door open hold brake turn key dont start keep brake down if they sensors were replaced it should clear in about a min or so if not cut the end off and twist the wires together they will skweeek bad when there low you dont need sensors
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
It is recommended to change the brake sensors anytime you change the brake pads.
New Sensors should have been put on.
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
there is a sensor on the front left and right rear they should have been change try this get in leave driver door open hold brake turn key dont start keep brake down if they sensors were replaced it should clear in about a min or so if not cut the end off and twist the wires together they will skweeek bad when there low you dont need sensors
What is the red circle light on 1995 bmw 318i SE?
It is recommended to change the brake sensors anytime you change the brake pads.
New Sensors should have been put on.
I think i need a brake change please help.?
Just recently my car brakes started to squeak. Ive had those brakes for about a year and six months. I dont know if the brakes have dust in them, i dont know. It only squeaks when i slightly press the brake, when i press it all the way its all good. If i do need this brake change how difficult is it to do it your self, i have never changed brakes my self, but i did rebuild a top end of a AMC and made it run again. I have front disk brakes and drums in the back. what kind of brake pads should i get, cause iam getting them from auto zone, and the prices very bettween diffrent brands, $35 is the most ill pay for a pair of brake pads. so which ones should i get, what do i need to keep in mind. thank you for all your help
I think i need a brake change please help.?
OK it sounds like it's about time, dust is a factor but after 20 months it's time. %26quot;Bendix or Raybestes%26quot; are your best bet and you may get another 16 to 20 months. With the rotors and drums if you run a finger nail across the surface and it gets caught or really feels rough they need to be turned, turning the drums and rotors will make the brake shoes and pads last longer. Yes get the %26quot;Auto Repair Manual%26quot; for your car to help you with the job the first time or 2. Good Luck and take it slow the first time or 2.
I think i need a brake change please help.?
mate. there's usually inspection slots in the caliber so go look at the pad thickness.
get Bendix brand,, the best is the only way to go with your brakes. I get mine from Advance Auto.
You get what you pay for, get the cheap ones and they blow out black dust and squeal like a retarded pig..... get the better pads, ceramic are the best. They are easy to change, you will need to buy a C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper for the disc brakes.
You do not know what the problem is and do not know how to do it. Yet you want to fix it your self for $35. I am glad I do not live in Long Beach.
Hey: We mechanic need to make a living too.
Well for starters you get what you pay for. Pads will range anywhere from 6.00 to 60.00. They have the regular elcheapo and then they have extreme duty. You asked a question that leaves a lot of questions open. You need to go somewhere and get a free brake check. There are a number of things that could be making the pads squeak besides actually needing to replace them. You mentioned dust that is one thing. Stuck caliper will give that effect also. Dry slides. Broken anti squeaker. I have even had a bad hose cause that effect. How old is the car.
Yeah, you can do it ,but you might want to buy a Haynes repair manual for your car. It will tell you what, if any ,special tools you will need.
Get the middle priced set of pads and be sure to apply the anti squeal paste or the plastic shims that come with them.
DON'T use a bumper jack or the jack that came with your car unless you place it on stands . Be safe, don't get under ANY car if it's not on stands.
It depends, how hard are you on your breaks? If you ease into everything, they may just be glazed over. If this is the problem, a spin on a grinding wheel should do the trick. As for difficulty, disc breaks are easier to change and drums are a little more complicated.
get semi -metallic pads and shoes about 20.00 ea set The sound you hear by that description is that of the early warning device on the pads to tell you that the pads are ready to be changed-- its a piece of metal that makes a noise because it touches the rotor first when the pads are worn. as for the work it is fair but the trick is that you need some specialty tools ie brake spring pliers, brake spoon, hex or torques wrench/socket 6%26quot; c-clamp and you have to run the rotors and drums down some where to get them cut in the back take both drums off but only change one set of shoes at a time so you can look at the other side if you get lost If you have abs most of them dont like having the fluid pushed back into the master cylinder so you have to clamp the line open the bleeder screw to push the caliper back if you do it yourself get a book hope this helps
I think i need a brake change please help.?
OK it sounds like it's about time, dust is a factor but after 20 months it's time. %26quot;Bendix or Raybestes%26quot; are your best bet and you may get another 16 to 20 months. With the rotors and drums if you run a finger nail across the surface and it gets caught or really feels rough they need to be turned, turning the drums and rotors will make the brake shoes and pads last longer. Yes get the %26quot;Auto Repair Manual%26quot; for your car to help you with the job the first time or 2. Good Luck and take it slow the first time or 2.
I think i need a brake change please help.?
mate. there's usually inspection slots in the caliber so go look at the pad thickness.
get Bendix brand,, the best is the only way to go with your brakes. I get mine from Advance Auto.
You get what you pay for, get the cheap ones and they blow out black dust and squeal like a retarded pig..... get the better pads, ceramic are the best. They are easy to change, you will need to buy a C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper for the disc brakes.
You do not know what the problem is and do not know how to do it. Yet you want to fix it your self for $35. I am glad I do not live in Long Beach.
Hey: We mechanic need to make a living too.
Well for starters you get what you pay for. Pads will range anywhere from 6.00 to 60.00. They have the regular elcheapo and then they have extreme duty. You asked a question that leaves a lot of questions open. You need to go somewhere and get a free brake check. There are a number of things that could be making the pads squeak besides actually needing to replace them. You mentioned dust that is one thing. Stuck caliper will give that effect also. Dry slides. Broken anti squeaker. I have even had a bad hose cause that effect. How old is the car.
Yeah, you can do it ,but you might want to buy a Haynes repair manual for your car. It will tell you what, if any ,special tools you will need.
Get the middle priced set of pads and be sure to apply the anti squeal paste or the plastic shims that come with them.
DON'T use a bumper jack or the jack that came with your car unless you place it on stands . Be safe, don't get under ANY car if it's not on stands.
It depends, how hard are you on your breaks? If you ease into everything, they may just be glazed over. If this is the problem, a spin on a grinding wheel should do the trick. As for difficulty, disc breaks are easier to change and drums are a little more complicated.
get semi -metallic pads and shoes about 20.00 ea set The sound you hear by that description is that of the early warning device on the pads to tell you that the pads are ready to be changed-- its a piece of metal that makes a noise because it touches the rotor first when the pads are worn. as for the work it is fair but the trick is that you need some specialty tools ie brake spring pliers, brake spoon, hex or torques wrench/socket 6%26quot; c-clamp and you have to run the rotors and drums down some where to get them cut in the back take both drums off but only change one set of shoes at a time so you can look at the other side if you get lost If you have abs most of them dont like having the fluid pushed back into the master cylinder so you have to clamp the line open the bleeder screw to push the caliper back if you do it yourself get a book hope this helps
Worn rear brakes?
How do I change the rear brakes on a 86 Honda Rebel, it has a rear drum and I wonder if it is possible to change the brake shoes without removing the wheel.
If I have to remove the wheel, how do you do that, I mean, how do you lift the rear end of the bike?
Worn rear brakes?
The rear wheel has to be removed to change the brakes.
Put the side stand down.
Put a floor jack under the frame at the right front foot peg (or a little more to the rear) to get the rear wheel off of the ground.
http://www.dansmc.com/rear_wheels.htm
Any questions - just ask.
Worn rear brakes?
save yourself a headache and bring it somewhere
If you dont know how I would take it to a friend or to a motorcylcle shop and they should have some tips on how to change the brakes. Good luck
You have to jack it up at the frame in front of the wheel.A motrocycle jack is best.The wheel does have to come off so make sure you jack it up enough to get the wheel out.Once you get it up take off the brake rod loosen the axle,take the chain off the rear sprocket,pull the axle and comes right out.The brake hub slides right out of the wheel.It's not a hard job just be carefull not to let your bike fall on you...Ride safe,there's stupid people on the road.
I would strongly suggest buying a repair manual. It will clearly show and tell how to perform this operation. Brakes are serious business. They are not hard to repair, but they must be done right.
No-one has done brake work on any of my vehicles or cycles except me. I trust myself. Also, I will not work on another person's brakes. I don't want the liability. Which, actually, is why you did not get an answer from me.
any serious biker should know something about their machine.take firecrackers advice and purchase a good shop manual, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
If I have to remove the wheel, how do you do that, I mean, how do you lift the rear end of the bike?
Worn rear brakes?
The rear wheel has to be removed to change the brakes.
Put the side stand down.
Put a floor jack under the frame at the right front foot peg (or a little more to the rear) to get the rear wheel off of the ground.
http://www.dansmc.com/rear_wheels.htm
Any questions - just ask.
Worn rear brakes?
save yourself a headache and bring it somewhere
If you dont know how I would take it to a friend or to a motorcylcle shop and they should have some tips on how to change the brakes. Good luck
You have to jack it up at the frame in front of the wheel.A motrocycle jack is best.The wheel does have to come off so make sure you jack it up enough to get the wheel out.Once you get it up take off the brake rod loosen the axle,take the chain off the rear sprocket,pull the axle and comes right out.The brake hub slides right out of the wheel.It's not a hard job just be carefull not to let your bike fall on you...Ride safe,there's stupid people on the road.
I would strongly suggest buying a repair manual. It will clearly show and tell how to perform this operation. Brakes are serious business. They are not hard to repair, but they must be done right.
No-one has done brake work on any of my vehicles or cycles except me. I trust myself. Also, I will not work on another person's brakes. I don't want the liability. Which, actually, is why you did not get an answer from me.
any serious biker should know something about their machine.take firecrackers advice and purchase a good shop manual, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.
Corolla spongy brakes?
i just changed the front disc brake pads and rotors on my 2000 corolla and the mechanic said the rear drums still have 45% left on them so i didn't have the rear changed. I'm not exactly sure if this problem was present before the brake change or not but i noticed that my brake is really spongy and i have to press it about 90% down to get a good brake response and after 90% it is really stiff and makes it hard for me to judge how hard i am braking before locking the wheels. This is important cause my car lacks ABS. I have heard that changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines helps my brakes be more sharper and less spongy but my receipt from the brake job indicates that they did change the brake fluid and did bleed the lines!? so im wondering whether i should take it to toyota instead and ask them to bleed the line and change the brake fluid or just to ask them to inspect the brakes? i know there is a 80$ diagnostic charge if no problem is found and im wondering whether i should risk it?
Corolla spongy brakes?
just drive it it will get better
Corolla spongy brakes?
whoever changed your brake pads and rotors must have not followed the proper procedure to bleed brakes. OR did it half assed. i suggest taking it back to them, and telling them politely to do it again, or have a technician try and press the brakes and see what he thinks about it. if its obvious to you , it should be obvious to him. if u took it to a good shop, theyll re do it for you at no cost.
you may have air in your brakes system,noot a big deal just bleed the brakes,did you remove a caliper when you did the change,it could also just e the brakes you got,did you go cheap?cause you get what you pay for,
Corolla spongy brakes?
just drive it it will get better
Corolla spongy brakes?
whoever changed your brake pads and rotors must have not followed the proper procedure to bleed brakes. OR did it half assed. i suggest taking it back to them, and telling them politely to do it again, or have a technician try and press the brakes and see what he thinks about it. if its obvious to you , it should be obvious to him. if u took it to a good shop, theyll re do it for you at no cost.
you may have air in your brakes system,noot a big deal just bleed the brakes,did you remove a caliper when you did the change,it could also just e the brakes you got,did you go cheap?cause you get what you pay for,
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
I have a '65 mustang with manual brakes (four drums). Obviously it is an outdated system, however I have had almost no problems out of it.
I was having a discussion with an older guy at work, and was mentioning that when I first get in the car, I usually push the brake pedal in, and let it out to get it 'pumped up', so that if I need to stop suddenly while I am driving, I don't have to worry about the pedal dropping to the floor.
He seemed to be convinced that there was some sort of problem with my brake system, although I have changed all four brake cylinders and the master cylinder. None of the brake lines leak, and I have had no problem with brake power. They will lock up easily if I slam on them, but that is true of every car without ABS.
Is he on crack? (he is kind of a weirdo) Or does it sound like I maybe got a defective master cylinder? I constantly have discussions of this sort with this guy, and he usually comes off as a crackpot.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
If your pedal drops to the floor sometimes and sometimes does not - it's not right. If you don't have leaks, and your hoses are fine, then your master cylinder definitely needs attention.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
Like I said, it doesn't seem to have any problems after that first pump.
I had another guy at work suggest that it might have something to do with the proportional valve, which is the only original part still in the car.
On any car equipped with MANUAL brakes, the pedal will pump up some. This is normal as long as the pedal height stays relatively close to the %26quot;pumped up%26quot; height.
If your brake shoes are out of adjustment, you can have a low pedal with no hydraulic problems. A %26quot;Rule of Thumb%26quot; is for the pedal to be even with the accelerator pedal or slightly above it.
There are circumstances where drum diameter and brake adjustment may cause variance in pedal height. If the fluid is not going down in the master cylinder then it is probably adjustment. If you need to add fluid you have a leak. I have come across bad rebuilds on master cylinders. No leaks found, brakes adjusted correctly, drum diameter within specifications, vacuum bled the hydraulics, emergency brake adjusted correctly, brake HOSES in good condition, and still had the pedal travel BELOW the accelerator pedal. I found that the master cylinder bore allowed fluid to go between the primary and secondary piston cups. %26quot;PEDAL MUST BE EVEN OR ABOVE GAS PEDAL%26quot;.
If your brake pedal does indeed drop to the floor, perhaps your masster cylinder or wheel drums need attention. I have noticed evenon my '91 mustang that it is possible to %26quot;pump them up%26quot; slightely, but i think this is normal. I think that it is pretty normal, but it probably won't drop to the floor. Pumping them before driving can't hurt.
You should not have to pump up your brakes, that is a clear sign that you have air in your system. Do a real good brake bleed, including the new master cylinder and you won't have to pump anymore. I learned a long time ago, when an old guy tells you something like this, it is well worth considering.
It sounds like you definately have air in your lines somewhere. Try bleeding your brakes starting with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the front driver's side. If you have new wheel cylinders, you shouldn't have any problem with the bleeders busting off. Have a partner get in the drivers seat and pump the pedal until stiff and keep foot pressure on it while you crack open a bleeder. Let the fluid squirt out while your partner is letting the pedal go to the floor. Keep pedal to the floor until you tighten the bleeder. Yell up there and tell him (her) to pump it up again. Do that to every wheel and see if you can keep a stiff pedal after finished.
If this fails, you have a leak somewhere...more than likely it is like what you mentioned in your question....a faulty master cylinder or maybe even one of those new wheel cylinders was bad. No, your friend isn't a crack-pot...he makes sense. He is probably just a little weird hahatalk in front of class celeb myspace
I was having a discussion with an older guy at work, and was mentioning that when I first get in the car, I usually push the brake pedal in, and let it out to get it 'pumped up', so that if I need to stop suddenly while I am driving, I don't have to worry about the pedal dropping to the floor.
He seemed to be convinced that there was some sort of problem with my brake system, although I have changed all four brake cylinders and the master cylinder. None of the brake lines leak, and I have had no problem with brake power. They will lock up easily if I slam on them, but that is true of every car without ABS.
Is he on crack? (he is kind of a weirdo) Or does it sound like I maybe got a defective master cylinder? I constantly have discussions of this sort with this guy, and he usually comes off as a crackpot.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
If your pedal drops to the floor sometimes and sometimes does not - it's not right. If you don't have leaks, and your hoses are fine, then your master cylinder definitely needs attention.
Manual Brakes - Pumping?
Like I said, it doesn't seem to have any problems after that first pump.
I had another guy at work suggest that it might have something to do with the proportional valve, which is the only original part still in the car.
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On any car equipped with MANUAL brakes, the pedal will pump up some. This is normal as long as the pedal height stays relatively close to the %26quot;pumped up%26quot; height.
If your brake shoes are out of adjustment, you can have a low pedal with no hydraulic problems. A %26quot;Rule of Thumb%26quot; is for the pedal to be even with the accelerator pedal or slightly above it.
There are circumstances where drum diameter and brake adjustment may cause variance in pedal height. If the fluid is not going down in the master cylinder then it is probably adjustment. If you need to add fluid you have a leak. I have come across bad rebuilds on master cylinders. No leaks found, brakes adjusted correctly, drum diameter within specifications, vacuum bled the hydraulics, emergency brake adjusted correctly, brake HOSES in good condition, and still had the pedal travel BELOW the accelerator pedal. I found that the master cylinder bore allowed fluid to go between the primary and secondary piston cups. %26quot;PEDAL MUST BE EVEN OR ABOVE GAS PEDAL%26quot;.
If your brake pedal does indeed drop to the floor, perhaps your masster cylinder or wheel drums need attention. I have noticed evenon my '91 mustang that it is possible to %26quot;pump them up%26quot; slightely, but i think this is normal. I think that it is pretty normal, but it probably won't drop to the floor. Pumping them before driving can't hurt.
You should not have to pump up your brakes, that is a clear sign that you have air in your system. Do a real good brake bleed, including the new master cylinder and you won't have to pump anymore. I learned a long time ago, when an old guy tells you something like this, it is well worth considering.
It sounds like you definately have air in your lines somewhere. Try bleeding your brakes starting with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the front driver's side. If you have new wheel cylinders, you shouldn't have any problem with the bleeders busting off. Have a partner get in the drivers seat and pump the pedal until stiff and keep foot pressure on it while you crack open a bleeder. Let the fluid squirt out while your partner is letting the pedal go to the floor. Keep pedal to the floor until you tighten the bleeder. Yell up there and tell him (her) to pump it up again. Do that to every wheel and see if you can keep a stiff pedal after finished.
If this fails, you have a leak somewhere...more than likely it is like what you mentioned in your question....a faulty master cylinder or maybe even one of those new wheel cylinders was bad. No, your friend isn't a crack-pot...he makes sense. He is probably just a little weird haha
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
I just change out my front brakes from drums to disc, is it nesacery to installe a proportioning valve, or can go with out one??
Its a 1968 ford mustang coupe with 289 automatic.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
Yes!!! You will not have any control over the differences between the front %26amp; rear brakes otherwise. Different distances from the master, etc can cause the rear tires to lock up when you brake.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
you better put one in if you don't want the back end slidding every time you hit the brakes :)
Yes you should . The front disc will grab a lot more then the old drums . Could get wild .
Its a 1968 ford mustang coupe with 289 automatic.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
Yes!!! You will not have any control over the differences between the front %26amp; rear brakes otherwise. Different distances from the master, etc can cause the rear tires to lock up when you brake.
Do I need to use a brake proportioning valve on a 68 mustang??
you better put one in if you don't want the back end slidding every time you hit the brakes :)
Yes you should . The front disc will grab a lot more then the old drums . Could get wild .
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
I got front and rear drums... when i press the pedal it goes mad close to the floor w/o resistance... then the last inch gives resistance and brakes the car.. but when i press really hard... the rear tires lock up if it's wet out... i changed the shoes and bled the brakes but it's still a death machine.. what's the deal
it's a 71 nova btw
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
sounds like the front shoes needs adjusted a little bit tighter against the drums.
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
Did you check the master cylinder ? Did you try pumping the brakes to see if they would hold better ? If so , when pumped and you got a little better pedal did it still go slowly to the floor ? If yes to last question , bad master cylinder . Also look at proportioning valve .
Couple of options.
1.) Leaking brake lines. A cracked brake line will spew out fluid when you press the pedal and the pedal will drop to the floor.
2.) Air in the lines, if you let in air by having low fluid levels the air pocket can be way up the line and you might need to bleed them more.
3.) Failed wheel cylinders. If the wheel cylinder is leaking or has a failed seal it will spew brake fluid and cause the brake to not function and your pedal will drop to the floor.
Sounds like you need to adjust them. If the self adjusters are working properly you can back up and brake hard then go forward and brake. Do this several times (don't hit anything) and they should adjust otherwise you'll need to do it manually.
Car has a %26quot;shuttle valve%26quot; that shuts down one side of %26quot;dual circuit brakes%26quot;! It could be stuck, -- or you could have bad master cylinder, - air in lines, (no fluid), - broken brake line or hose to calipers, -or calipers seized! Years ago cars only had the one circuit system, -- when you lost fluid you had a %26quot;neutral pedal on right side of steering column, -- quite messy if the emergency brake didn't work, or you had an automatic transmission, -- gears slow you down somewhat, and if you have enough space you can shut off the engine and let engine finally stop car! If that doesn't work, find something %26quot;cheap and soft%26quot; to hit! In almost 60 years of driving I have been down that road a number of times!! Actually I drive as if they aren't gong to work anyway, -- my brake pads last in excess of 40,000 miles most of the time! And no I don't drive like %26quot;an old lady%26quot;!!
I naturally assume that you have adjusted the front brake shoes with adjuster at bottom of housing, -- if they have to travel too far, they may be needing more fluid than one push on pedal can move! If you can pump up with for or 5 jabs quickly on brake pedal it is a pretty good indicator that shoes need adjusted!
it's a 71 nova btw
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
sounds like the front shoes needs adjusted a little bit tighter against the drums.
Why don't my brakes work? they're drums and the rear only work?
Did you check the master cylinder ? Did you try pumping the brakes to see if they would hold better ? If so , when pumped and you got a little better pedal did it still go slowly to the floor ? If yes to last question , bad master cylinder . Also look at proportioning valve .
Couple of options.
1.) Leaking brake lines. A cracked brake line will spew out fluid when you press the pedal and the pedal will drop to the floor.
2.) Air in the lines, if you let in air by having low fluid levels the air pocket can be way up the line and you might need to bleed them more.
3.) Failed wheel cylinders. If the wheel cylinder is leaking or has a failed seal it will spew brake fluid and cause the brake to not function and your pedal will drop to the floor.
Sounds like you need to adjust them. If the self adjusters are working properly you can back up and brake hard then go forward and brake. Do this several times (don't hit anything) and they should adjust otherwise you'll need to do it manually.
Car has a %26quot;shuttle valve%26quot; that shuts down one side of %26quot;dual circuit brakes%26quot;! It could be stuck, -- or you could have bad master cylinder, - air in lines, (no fluid), - broken brake line or hose to calipers, -or calipers seized! Years ago cars only had the one circuit system, -- when you lost fluid you had a %26quot;neutral pedal on right side of steering column, -- quite messy if the emergency brake didn't work, or you had an automatic transmission, -- gears slow you down somewhat, and if you have enough space you can shut off the engine and let engine finally stop car! If that doesn't work, find something %26quot;cheap and soft%26quot; to hit! In almost 60 years of driving I have been down that road a number of times!! Actually I drive as if they aren't gong to work anyway, -- my brake pads last in excess of 40,000 miles most of the time! And no I don't drive like %26quot;an old lady%26quot;!!
I naturally assume that you have adjusted the front brake shoes with adjuster at bottom of housing, -- if they have to travel too far, they may be needing more fluid than one push on pedal can move! If you can pump up with for or 5 jabs quickly on brake pedal it is a pretty good indicator that shoes need adjusted!
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
i change the front and rear brake new pads new shoes turned rotors and turned drums it still crunches at final stop
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
weird that it crunches to a stop after that work (everyting you did was right, new pads and turned rotors) the squeek could be the disc brakes, some cars have a anti squeel pin that go on the pads. not sure on PT Cruiser. make sure your drum pads are on right, little pad goes toward the front of the car. ( check your bearings while you got it jack up )
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
They will take a while to seat so they won't make nise give it some time.
i'd say whoever did them didn't lubricate them correctly
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
weird that it crunches to a stop after that work (everyting you did was right, new pads and turned rotors) the squeek could be the disc brakes, some cars have a anti squeel pin that go on the pads. not sure on PT Cruiser. make sure your drum pads are on right, little pad goes toward the front of the car. ( check your bearings while you got it jack up )
Why do the brakes on a 2003 pt cruiser squeek and the brakes are new and rotor and drums turned?
They will take a while to seat so they won't make nise give it some time.
i'd say whoever did them didn't lubricate them correctly
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
I have a honda civic 05ex coupe and I want to convert 4 lugs pattern to 5 lugs pattern. I don't know what parts should i get to do it, and I also want to change the front rotor brakes and rear brake ( my rear brakes are drum and I want to convert it into brake rotor). Can you guys help me out with this?
thankz
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
#1 get a wheelbarrow full of money! #2 If you are lucky you might find a Honda with 5 lug wheels, - you then might be able to pull hubs off and change out with stock parts! Or you might be able to buy adapters at auto parts store (or custom wheel shop)! This will cost you plenty! For non drive wheels you can change hubs, -- but you need to find one at junkyard (preferably) that has disc brakes on back and buy all the stuff needed to remove drum brakes and backing plates and install lines that go with disc brakes! Then you have problem of parking brake, which has to have all the conversion stuff to to work!
When you get finished with that, all you have to do is get master cylinder for disc brakes, (for all 4 wheels), change anti skid brake parts (if so equipped) and possibly %26quot;shuttle valve that shuts off fluid flow should one %26quot;end %26quot; of car have brake leak, and then I guess you are ready to go!
Possibly you can buy conversion kit for disc brakes at a%26quot;speed shop/custom car supply%26quot; place for somewhere around $900-1000! They also might have adapters to bolt on. but this will make your wheels sit out about 1 1/2%26quot; probably - so you might need %26quot;deep dish%26quot; wheels to go that way!
To me it would be unwarranted expense, as only about 1/3 of braking goes to rear wheels! And if you are going to %26quot;play competition%26quot; you will probably tear car up and ruin it in short order anyway!
But then what do I know!! I have only been fixing cars since I was 9,---which is almost 60 years ago!
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
The lugs are part of the %26quot;brake-rotor%26quot;
The lugs are mounted in the hub assembly of each wheel, the key is finding 5 lug hubs which have the same size bearing mounting shaft as the 4 lug hubs which you have. once you locate a set of the proper hubs you will have to obtain rotors to match, Brake caliper mounts to match the rotors (front and rear) which may require replacement of the knuckles in the front and will certainly require modifications to the rear spindle supports to mount the rear calipers. This is not going to be a simple swap a few pieces operation - your best bet will be to find a disk brake equipped rear %26quot;axle%26quot; assembly from a similar car so you have all the pieces in one assembly then find a really good welder who you can persuade ($$$) to perform non dot approved modifications to your machine. If you are reasonable lucky on the parts locating side of this you might get it accomplished for less than 2 or 3 thousand dollars.
WHY would you want to do this? It would be very expensive for no benefit whatsoever.
thankz
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
#1 get a wheelbarrow full of money! #2 If you are lucky you might find a Honda with 5 lug wheels, - you then might be able to pull hubs off and change out with stock parts! Or you might be able to buy adapters at auto parts store (or custom wheel shop)! This will cost you plenty! For non drive wheels you can change hubs, -- but you need to find one at junkyard (preferably) that has disc brakes on back and buy all the stuff needed to remove drum brakes and backing plates and install lines that go with disc brakes! Then you have problem of parking brake, which has to have all the conversion stuff to to work!
When you get finished with that, all you have to do is get master cylinder for disc brakes, (for all 4 wheels), change anti skid brake parts (if so equipped) and possibly %26quot;shuttle valve that shuts off fluid flow should one %26quot;end %26quot; of car have brake leak, and then I guess you are ready to go!
Possibly you can buy conversion kit for disc brakes at a%26quot;speed shop/custom car supply%26quot; place for somewhere around $900-1000! They also might have adapters to bolt on. but this will make your wheels sit out about 1 1/2%26quot; probably - so you might need %26quot;deep dish%26quot; wheels to go that way!
To me it would be unwarranted expense, as only about 1/3 of braking goes to rear wheels! And if you are going to %26quot;play competition%26quot; you will probably tear car up and ruin it in short order anyway!
But then what do I know!! I have only been fixing cars since I was 9,---which is almost 60 years ago!
How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
The lugs are part of the %26quot;brake-rotor%26quot;
The lugs are mounted in the hub assembly of each wheel, the key is finding 5 lug hubs which have the same size bearing mounting shaft as the 4 lug hubs which you have. once you locate a set of the proper hubs you will have to obtain rotors to match, Brake caliper mounts to match the rotors (front and rear) which may require replacement of the knuckles in the front and will certainly require modifications to the rear spindle supports to mount the rear calipers. This is not going to be a simple swap a few pieces operation - your best bet will be to find a disk brake equipped rear %26quot;axle%26quot; assembly from a similar car so you have all the pieces in one assembly then find a really good welder who you can persuade ($$$) to perform non dot approved modifications to your machine. If you are reasonable lucky on the parts locating side of this you might get it accomplished for less than 2 or 3 thousand dollars.
WHY would you want to do this? It would be very expensive for no benefit whatsoever.
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I've got a '98 Wrangler with 84,000 miles on it. I assume the brake pads have never been changed which I am planning on doing soon. My question has arisen because on several occasions now after I was driving in the rain and then let the vehicle sit for several hours, I started driving again and the first time I push the breaks (even very lightly) one of the rear wheels will completely lock up and the tire just starts dragging and screeching loudly leaving a hefty skid mark behind. Is this just being caused by the old brake pads and drums which need replacing and turning, respectively? Or will I need to plan on repairing something else in there? Thanks!
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I am thinking that the brake shoes you have back there are next to none for brake lining.I would really be thinking if I am not wrong the brake shoes on this jeep have no lining left.That is what might be causing the brake grab.On some brake linings they use rivets to hold the brake lining on the metal shoes with bonding.Other time they only use just bonding and no rivets just so you can go farther on a set of brake shoes.Its up to the customer witch brake shoes to use for the car.Have you brake drums checked also for scaring and out of roundness by taking them to a machine shop or just get new drums for the rear.And after you have gone and done all that check your wheel cylinders on the rear to see if anything is leaking.If it is you can get replacement parts for the hydralic system.But if you need to get into that have someone there to pump the brake pedal to bleed the system to get the air out of the system but make sure you have plenty of brake fluid for the job.Good luck! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I just recently had this exact same problem with my '90 Dodge Daytona. Replace your brake pads as soon as possible. Cleaning the brake shoe(the one that's locking) and making sure there are no leaks should do the trick. I had to have the shoe replaced for it to stop locking. Hopefully all you have to do is replace the brake pads. I waited so long to do so that the rotors needed to be resurfaced and it cost me a pretty penny. ($200)database rodents
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I am thinking that the brake shoes you have back there are next to none for brake lining.I would really be thinking if I am not wrong the brake shoes on this jeep have no lining left.That is what might be causing the brake grab.On some brake linings they use rivets to hold the brake lining on the metal shoes with bonding.Other time they only use just bonding and no rivets just so you can go farther on a set of brake shoes.Its up to the customer witch brake shoes to use for the car.Have you brake drums checked also for scaring and out of roundness by taking them to a machine shop or just get new drums for the rear.And after you have gone and done all that check your wheel cylinders on the rear to see if anything is leaking.If it is you can get replacement parts for the hydralic system.But if you need to get into that have someone there to pump the brake pedal to bleed the system to get the air out of the system but make sure you have plenty of brake fluid for the job.Good luck! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Cold, Wet drum brake locks up?
I just recently had this exact same problem with my '90 Dodge Daytona. Replace your brake pads as soon as possible. Cleaning the brake shoe(the one that's locking) and making sure there are no leaks should do the trick. I had to have the shoe replaced for it to stop locking. Hopefully all you have to do is replace the brake pads. I waited so long to do so that the rotors needed to be resurfaced and it cost me a pretty penny. ($200)
Could my lifetime brake pads cause my SUV to be screeching whenever I apply the brakes?
Ok...this issue has been going on for months and I'm getting SICK of it. I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute. I have NEW everything: lifetime brakes, drums, and rotors. I recently heard someone say that they had lifetime %26quot;ceramic%26quot; brake pads on their vehicle and within a few months, whenever they would put on their brakes, their car would make a horrible screeching sound. Once they switched out the lifetime brakes with regular brake pads you change every couple years, the problem went away.
My question is this: are all lifetime brake pads made out of ceramic? And the mechanic I go to is a family friend and is a great person to deal with so I trust him completely. He keeps telling me that he isn't finding anything else....so is there anything else that could be making this awful sound whenever I apply the brakes?
Could my lifetime brake pads cause my SUV to be screeching whenever I apply the brakes?
i have lifetime pads on my car. mine are semi- metallac.not all lifetime are ceramic. it could be you got hard pads or brake dust.
My question is this: are all lifetime brake pads made out of ceramic? And the mechanic I go to is a family friend and is a great person to deal with so I trust him completely. He keeps telling me that he isn't finding anything else....so is there anything else that could be making this awful sound whenever I apply the brakes?
Could my lifetime brake pads cause my SUV to be screeching whenever I apply the brakes?
i have lifetime pads on my car. mine are semi- metallac.not all lifetime are ceramic. it could be you got hard pads or brake dust.
What Year Did Jeep Wranglers start getting Stock Rear Disk Brakes?
I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Edition (TJ) that I was doing its scheduled differential fluid change on, and I found Broken teeth on the Rear Differential Gears. Well I have heard that the ring and Pinion gears are a big hassle to change out without special tools, So I was hoping to find another Jeep at a Junk Yard to buy a used differential. Well I also want to kill two birds with one stone and find a rear diff. with rear disk brakes since i have drums right now. So this brings me to my question, What year do Jeep Wranglers start getting stock rear disk brakes, if they even have started...... also, Would the part be compatible to fit on my Jeep? I am not sure what gearing I have right now, but I do know that it is not a limited slip differential. So of course, It would be even more cool to kill three birds with one stone and find a rear diff. with a limited slip diff. also. Does the limited slip diff. come standard on any models? Would a Cherokee Diff be Compatible? Thanks
What Year Did Jeep Wranglers start getting Stock Rear Disk Brakes?
You may as well replace the entire axle if you're going this route. A Ford 8.8 out of a1995-2001 Ford Explorer is a very common swap. It is the correct width, same lug pattern, much stronger and they are easy to find with disc brakes. You can find them around for a few hundred bux at junk yards. M.O.R.E. and many others sell kits to relocate the control arm brackets and spring perches, but you'll need to know how to weld, or know a welder to do these mods. If you go this route make sure you match the gear ratio to your front end - different front/rear ratios will blow up your transfer case when in 4wd.
The disc brake conversion won't help much for what its worth - trust me, I tried it. If you must, TeraFlex sells a conversion kit that uses mid/late 1990's ZJ brakes.
If you don't want to go this route check the jeep message boards and enthusiast sites, you are VERY likely to find a person that is doing this mod and will either give your their stock axle, or sell it to you VERY cheap. It will bolt straight in and get you up and running in the shortest amount of time for the least amount of $. Good Luck!
What Year Did Jeep Wranglers start getting Stock Rear Disk Brakes?
2003, on the Rubicons only. They are standard on all on the JK's. As for compatability, TJ axles should bolt right up. If you are in a savage yard and find a wrecked Rubicon grab both axles. They are Dana 44's and have 4.10 gears and air lockers from the factory
Chicks hate Jeeps dude.
What Year Did Jeep Wranglers start getting Stock Rear Disk Brakes?
You may as well replace the entire axle if you're going this route. A Ford 8.8 out of a1995-2001 Ford Explorer is a very common swap. It is the correct width, same lug pattern, much stronger and they are easy to find with disc brakes. You can find them around for a few hundred bux at junk yards. M.O.R.E. and many others sell kits to relocate the control arm brackets and spring perches, but you'll need to know how to weld, or know a welder to do these mods. If you go this route make sure you match the gear ratio to your front end - different front/rear ratios will blow up your transfer case when in 4wd.
The disc brake conversion won't help much for what its worth - trust me, I tried it. If you must, TeraFlex sells a conversion kit that uses mid/late 1990's ZJ brakes.
If you don't want to go this route check the jeep message boards and enthusiast sites, you are VERY likely to find a person that is doing this mod and will either give your their stock axle, or sell it to you VERY cheap. It will bolt straight in and get you up and running in the shortest amount of time for the least amount of $. Good Luck!
What Year Did Jeep Wranglers start getting Stock Rear Disk Brakes?
2003, on the Rubicons only. They are standard on all on the JK's. As for compatability, TJ axles should bolt right up. If you are in a savage yard and find a wrecked Rubicon grab both axles. They are Dana 44's and have 4.10 gears and air lockers from the factory
Chicks hate Jeeps dude.
Drum brake question?
How do i get the drums off when when the little screw holes are rusted out? i believe previous owners never changed the shoes or drums so the drums are pretty rusted, any ideas on how to get it off?
Drum brake question?
spray some penetrating oil where the drum meets the axle,clean up the rust on the axle-sand paper/file/wire brush- parking brake off-using two screw drivers,slot near bottom center drum, use one screw driver to release self adjuster pawl,use second screw driver to back off star wheel adjuster retracting brake shoes-drum should come off,might require some careful taps with a hammer to get past rust on axle
Drum brake question?
you maight need an impact screwdriver to unfasten screws, or a really good hammer, you can even use a centre punch to tap them round if the slots have worn away,
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !
Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get Off
First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?
With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.
99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
Drum brake question?
spray some penetrating oil where the drum meets the axle,clean up the rust on the axle-sand paper/file/wire brush- parking brake off-using two screw drivers,slot near bottom center drum, use one screw driver to release self adjuster pawl,use second screw driver to back off star wheel adjuster retracting brake shoes-drum should come off,might require some careful taps with a hammer to get past rust on axle
Drum brake question?
you maight need an impact screwdriver to unfasten screws, or a really good hammer, you can even use a centre punch to tap them round if the slots have worn away,
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !
Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get Off
First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?
With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.
99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
I want to modified my 1994 Honda Civic EG 4door sedan. please give me some tips. ?
I have a 1994 Honda Civic EG gli 4door sedan. 1.5l, auto trans. I want to modified the look and performance wise. But I dont know where to start, therefore i ask you, coz u got more experience.
To start with, Im thinking putting B16A VTEC, change it to 5spd manual, change rear drum brakes to disc, exhaust.
What other things I need.My goal is to crack 6-7 sec 0-60mph. Thanks
I want to modified my 1994 Honda Civic EG 4door sedan. please give me some tips. ?
Well a b16 is a good start for the money but being you have a four door you might want a little more power to propel that large compact you have so maybe an ls vtec or a CTR engine, but all the power in the world will do you no good if you don't have good suspension so i would also recommend getting a good set of coil overs like TIEN or SKUNK2 not those ebay specials. You are also going to need some good rubber around your rims so don't cop out with a %26quot;cheap set%26quot; of tires from discount tire. When it comes to styling your best thing to remember is you get what you pay for so keep that in mind when buying and don't forget if you have bad roads around your town don't buy a body kit that makes your car 10mm of the ground don't forget to check your local laws they all vary per state.
I want to modified my 1994 Honda Civic EG 4door sedan. please give me some tips. ?
get a bunch of friends that are willing to push your car.
Personally, I want a B18c1. Start off small like, cold air intake on the engine, stuff like that, exhaust. Then get up to the point of putting in a turbo. =]
I like the B16 motor but I would also suggest the B18.
Other than that and the usually mods, (intake, headers, exhuast, etc.) the one thing I would suggest that some people overlook is weight-loss. Put your car on a diet, take out anything and everything that you do not need. 3 15 inch subs might impress some ppl, but that added weight is robbing power, so I would not suggest a sound system. If you have AAA and actually use it, take out your spare tire, that will save some wieght. If you have leather seats changing those for racing ones could save weight, theres many many options here.
Good Luck
dont waste ur mony swiching to a manual. just stay with the automatic
Brakes won't do anything for acceleration, exhaust won't get you there, B16 might get you there.
I bet someone's goin to say cold air intake + headers. Watch.
Edit : Oh wait someone already did lol.
Be careful with the exhaust. I'm sure you know all too well how horrible civics can sound with cheap exhaust. Keep it respectable and not too loud.
The biggest performance gain would be through a turbo system. But with FWD, you're going to end up with huge torque steer and traction problems. They're also very sensitive systems, you can absolutely demolish your engine with a turbo if you don't know what you're doing. If you consider going down this route, buy the book %26quot;Maximum Boost%26quot; by Corky Bell, it'll really help you out.
To start with, Im thinking putting B16A VTEC, change it to 5spd manual, change rear drum brakes to disc, exhaust.
What other things I need.My goal is to crack 6-7 sec 0-60mph. Thanks
I want to modified my 1994 Honda Civic EG 4door sedan. please give me some tips. ?
Well a b16 is a good start for the money but being you have a four door you might want a little more power to propel that large compact you have so maybe an ls vtec or a CTR engine, but all the power in the world will do you no good if you don't have good suspension so i would also recommend getting a good set of coil overs like TIEN or SKUNK2 not those ebay specials. You are also going to need some good rubber around your rims so don't cop out with a %26quot;cheap set%26quot; of tires from discount tire. When it comes to styling your best thing to remember is you get what you pay for so keep that in mind when buying and don't forget if you have bad roads around your town don't buy a body kit that makes your car 10mm of the ground don't forget to check your local laws they all vary per state.
I want to modified my 1994 Honda Civic EG 4door sedan. please give me some tips. ?
get a bunch of friends that are willing to push your car.
Personally, I want a B18c1. Start off small like, cold air intake on the engine, stuff like that, exhaust. Then get up to the point of putting in a turbo. =]
I like the B16 motor but I would also suggest the B18.
Other than that and the usually mods, (intake, headers, exhuast, etc.) the one thing I would suggest that some people overlook is weight-loss. Put your car on a diet, take out anything and everything that you do not need. 3 15 inch subs might impress some ppl, but that added weight is robbing power, so I would not suggest a sound system. If you have AAA and actually use it, take out your spare tire, that will save some wieght. If you have leather seats changing those for racing ones could save weight, theres many many options here.
Good Luck
dont waste ur mony swiching to a manual. just stay with the automatic
Brakes won't do anything for acceleration, exhaust won't get you there, B16 might get you there.
I bet someone's goin to say cold air intake + headers. Watch.
Edit : Oh wait someone already did lol.
Be careful with the exhaust. I'm sure you know all too well how horrible civics can sound with cheap exhaust. Keep it respectable and not too loud.
The biggest performance gain would be through a turbo system. But with FWD, you're going to end up with huge torque steer and traction problems. They're also very sensitive systems, you can absolutely demolish your engine with a turbo if you don't know what you're doing. If you consider going down this route, buy the book %26quot;Maximum Boost%26quot; by Corky Bell, it'll really help you out.
SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
I NEED TO CHANGE A REAR WHEEL BEARING ON MY IGNIS 1.3 2WD 04 REG I CAN TAKE THE WHEEL AND LARGE NUT OFF BUT THE DRUM IS BEING HELD ON BY THE BRAKES HOW DO I RELEASE THESE (THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF)
SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
back off adjuster til its free or pry it and hit with hammer some have screws to push off hub only a few ways of doing it most need a hammer and to pry many cant get into adjust unless you knock out adjusting plug on back brake housing
SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
pull harder.
I don't think that the brakes would be holding the drum on.
Many times the drum is simply held there because of rust, and the fact that it has been there for a long time. Take a rubber hammer or a hammer and a shoe, and try to hit the drum to knock it loose.
http://mibearings.com - new wheel bearings
Good Luck!in the bath tub streamreader
SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
back off adjuster til its free or pry it and hit with hammer some have screws to push off hub only a few ways of doing it most need a hammer and to pry many cant get into adjust unless you knock out adjusting plug on back brake housing
SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
pull harder.
I don't think that the brakes would be holding the drum on.
Many times the drum is simply held there because of rust, and the fact that it has been there for a long time. Take a rubber hammer or a hammer and a shoe, and try to hit the drum to knock it loose.
http://mibearings.com - new wheel bearings
Good Luck!
1972 chevy truck k20 brakes and exhaust.?
i have a 1972 chevy truck k20. with power disc/drum brakes. disc front drum back. someone cut my rear brake lines and put water in my brake resevoir. now theres air in all my lines and stuff. how can i get all the air out. i plugged the back brake line and am now bleeding them from the rear. is there any possibilty to getting all the air out or what. how can i go about doing this the best way. and also is it true what i hear about a sbc engine needing backpressure. then how can hot rods and or rat rods run straight headers. is there anything i can do to my carburetor to gain more hp when i run straight header. like change the jetting or something. please all your information is greatly appreciated and needed. engine is a 02 chevy crate engine with a cam and edelbrock 650 cfm carb and edelbrock performer intake manifold. hei ignition by ac delco. and champion spark plugs. and serpentine belt kit. 4 core radiator. o and the truck has no fan and runs 160 degrees all the time.
1972 chevy truck k20 brakes and exhaust.?
I hate to say this but you should have it towed somewhere with a pressure bleeder. I say this for 2 reasons. Reason 1 these are your brakes were talking about its the only way to stop your truck so I believe that since you have never done it before you should have a professional do it. And reason 2 every good tech knows that brake fluid absorbs water so if someone put it in your brake system then that's why you should get it pressure bled so they can flush out all the water. Make sure you tell them that there is water in the system and that it needs flushed extra good. This may not be what you wanna hear but its a professionals opinion.
1972 chevy truck k20 brakes and exhaust.?
I hate to say this but you should have it towed somewhere with a pressure bleeder. I say this for 2 reasons. Reason 1 these are your brakes were talking about its the only way to stop your truck so I believe that since you have never done it before you should have a professional do it. And reason 2 every good tech knows that brake fluid absorbs water so if someone put it in your brake system then that's why you should get it pressure bled so they can flush out all the water. Make sure you tell them that there is water in the system and that it needs flushed extra good. This may not be what you wanna hear but its a professionals opinion.
There is a knocking comeing frm the back of renualt laguna?
the knocking only happens at speed about 65-70 mph i have checked the brearings and the brake drums i have change the wheel for the spare .it does not happen when i go over a speed hump, the shock looks fine the exchaust is fine underneth the car looks solid i just cant figure out what it is,i dont what to take it to a garage as they will just start changeing everything any ideas anyone its the left hand side rearend
There is a knocking comeing frm the back of renualt laguna?
let her out of the trunk
There is a knocking comeing frm the back of renualt laguna?
let her out of the trunk
Mechanics Advice, please:Squealing brakes.?
I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 208,000 miles.
During my last oil change, the dealership noted %26quot;hot spots%26quot; and suggested I replace the rear drum brakes, which I did. (The front brakes were replaced last year).The brake pads were not replaced because they said they did not appear worn enough.
Since then, the brakes have squealed whenever I come to complete stop. I had the dealership look at them again, and they sanded them down and lubed it really well, but they continue to squeal.
The brakes did not make any noise before the repair. Is this reasonable, or should I insist they look at it again?
Mechanics Advice, please:Squealing brakes.?
I would take it somewhere other than the dealership because they have had two chances to fix it right, and have not!
Mechanics Advice, please:Squealing brakes.?
They should have replaced the shoes when they replaced the drums, that's why you're getting a squeak
I'm not a mechanic, but I had the same problem with my 1992 Nissan Sentra after a brake change. My mechanic told me that there are some brands of brakes that naturally have a squeal, however, it's a distinctly different squeal when you actually need to replace them and that you'll know by the change in sound when it's time for new brakes. He was able to do something to them for me to %26quot;take the squeal out%26quot; and it worked but I've not had him do it again. I just deal with the squealing and don't worry about it now that I know it's normal.
they should have replaced the brake pads. they sanded the rotors but not the pads.
press on your brakes while driving maby aroud 25-30mph to take off the top layer.
think that can help .
Your pads are worn out. Go to an independent. Brake pads have %26quot;squealers%26quot; that indicators of pad life. If you hear'em its time to replace'em. If you wait, outside of being dangerous, you will have to replace the rotors rather than just turn them as the %26quot;squealer%26quot; digs into them.
you don't have to keep taking it to dealer for brakes and small repairs,any small repair shop can do the same job and do it well,and save you money on it,some brand of brake pads and shoes will squeal sometimes,this is caused by the cheap materials used in them to make then with,as for lubing anything on the brakes i doubt they put any lubricant on them ,that would have caused them to squeal more,this may just be the rotors or the drums seating in,you can take it in and have them look at it again since you done paid to get this done once,im sure they will be glad to look it over for you,it may be time now to have the front brake pads changed,at least you have it checked to be sure,good luck with it.,,PS as a a rule of thumb,you should always replace the pads or shoes anytime you replace the rotors or the drums,this way they wear in together that could be why its making that noise.
OK, If the dealership has done the repair and they don't know what it is..it's sound fishy to me,,
they're suppose to be the experts on this kind of problems...
I hope they're not charging you every time they look at it...
Take it back to them until they fix it.[ ask to speak with the manager, don't talk to the repair guys]..at no charge..
Good luck
find a nice, empty stretch of blacktop, get up to around 40-45, PANIC!!! there's an old lady who just jumped out in front of you!!! S T O P !!!! that oughtta %26quot;set%26quot; your brakes- this used to be what we did when we put new steel in your brakes, to stop the squeal- Nowadays, the practice is frowned upon, but still works about 80% of the time, you just won't EVER get told that your car was driven like that....(and honestly, with the new brake lining compounds, it shouldn't be necessary)If that doesn't work, go back to the shop and don't let them give your car back until it's quiet,(The usual cause is either the shoes aren't radiused to fit the new, smaller drums, contacting only on a small area, or improper adjustment of the linings) or they re-imburse you for the labor portion of your repair!.(Tell them you're demanding one or the other when you talk to the service writer, and, if possible, talk to the same one who wrote you up originally)
During my last oil change, the dealership noted %26quot;hot spots%26quot; and suggested I replace the rear drum brakes, which I did. (The front brakes were replaced last year).The brake pads were not replaced because they said they did not appear worn enough.
Since then, the brakes have squealed whenever I come to complete stop. I had the dealership look at them again, and they sanded them down and lubed it really well, but they continue to squeal.
The brakes did not make any noise before the repair. Is this reasonable, or should I insist they look at it again?
Mechanics Advice, please:Squealing brakes.?
I would take it somewhere other than the dealership because they have had two chances to fix it right, and have not!
Mechanics Advice, please:Squealing brakes.?
They should have replaced the shoes when they replaced the drums, that's why you're getting a squeak
I'm not a mechanic, but I had the same problem with my 1992 Nissan Sentra after a brake change. My mechanic told me that there are some brands of brakes that naturally have a squeal, however, it's a distinctly different squeal when you actually need to replace them and that you'll know by the change in sound when it's time for new brakes. He was able to do something to them for me to %26quot;take the squeal out%26quot; and it worked but I've not had him do it again. I just deal with the squealing and don't worry about it now that I know it's normal.
they should have replaced the brake pads. they sanded the rotors but not the pads.
press on your brakes while driving maby aroud 25-30mph to take off the top layer.
think that can help .
Your pads are worn out. Go to an independent. Brake pads have %26quot;squealers%26quot; that indicators of pad life. If you hear'em its time to replace'em. If you wait, outside of being dangerous, you will have to replace the rotors rather than just turn them as the %26quot;squealer%26quot; digs into them.
you don't have to keep taking it to dealer for brakes and small repairs,any small repair shop can do the same job and do it well,and save you money on it,some brand of brake pads and shoes will squeal sometimes,this is caused by the cheap materials used in them to make then with,as for lubing anything on the brakes i doubt they put any lubricant on them ,that would have caused them to squeal more,this may just be the rotors or the drums seating in,you can take it in and have them look at it again since you done paid to get this done once,im sure they will be glad to look it over for you,it may be time now to have the front brake pads changed,at least you have it checked to be sure,good luck with it.,,PS as a a rule of thumb,you should always replace the pads or shoes anytime you replace the rotors or the drums,this way they wear in together that could be why its making that noise.
OK, If the dealership has done the repair and they don't know what it is..it's sound fishy to me,,
they're suppose to be the experts on this kind of problems...
I hope they're not charging you every time they look at it...
Take it back to them until they fix it.[ ask to speak with the manager, don't talk to the repair guys]..at no charge..
Good luck
find a nice, empty stretch of blacktop, get up to around 40-45, PANIC!!! there's an old lady who just jumped out in front of you!!! S T O P !!!! that oughtta %26quot;set%26quot; your brakes- this used to be what we did when we put new steel in your brakes, to stop the squeal- Nowadays, the practice is frowned upon, but still works about 80% of the time, you just won't EVER get told that your car was driven like that....(and honestly, with the new brake lining compounds, it shouldn't be necessary)If that doesn't work, go back to the shop and don't let them give your car back until it's quiet,(The usual cause is either the shoes aren't radiused to fit the new, smaller drums, contacting only on a small area, or improper adjustment of the linings) or they re-imburse you for the labor portion of your repair!.(Tell them you're demanding one or the other when you talk to the service writer, and, if possible, talk to the same one who wrote you up originally)
Having a mitsubishi eclipse gs 1999 is it good idea to have? (without being modified)?
also it has drum brakes in the rear wheels and disk brakes in the front wheels.... is it better to change all four wheels too disk brakes or leave it the same? and which is the best type of motor oil should be used for that car?10w-30?
Having a mitsubishi eclipse gs 1999 is it good idea to have? (without being modified)?
It is a fun car to drive, but it may cost you on high insurance, especially if you are under 21 years of age. 10W30 should work great for the car. From most stopping, car using 80% front brakes and 20% rear brakes, so it is not that important to change to 4 wheel disc
Following is the spec on your car: http://www.internetautoguide.com/car-spe鈥?/a>
Have fun and drive safe
Having a mitsubishi eclipse gs 1999 is it good idea to have? (without being modified)?
It is a fun car to drive, but it may cost you on high insurance, especially if you are under 21 years of age. 10W30 should work great for the car. From most stopping, car using 80% front brakes and 20% rear brakes, so it is not that important to change to 4 wheel disc
Following is the spec on your car: http://www.internetautoguide.com/car-spe鈥?/a>
Have fun and drive safe
Mechanic needs Help from other Mechanic about some brakes on a 1993 nissan maxima?
ok, yesterday , i changed out the rear brakes , i had the drums turned, and installed new brake shoes into the car, but i am still getting the same grinding squeaking noise from the rear brakes, do i need to replace the drums?? i replaced those drums 5 years ago when the car was mine and i put brand new drums at the time , and now it belongs to my best friend and i did the brakes for him yesterday, but ive never had this issue with any car.
Please Advise
Mechanic needs Help from other Mechanic about some brakes on a 1993 nissan maxima?
I would remove the rear drums and back off the adjustment on the emergency brake cables and make sure the emergency brake cables are not hanging up. If they are not hanging up, lightly sand the shoes off including the outer edges, install the rear drums, adjust the brakes, then adjust the emergency cable last.
Another problem could be that your return springs are weak and need to be replaced, if they are weak then they will not pull the shoes all the way back.
Mechanic needs Help from other Mechanic about some brakes on a 1993 nissan maxima?
Go to Car Talk.com and sign in. There are about a dozen mechanics there who respond quickly. In this case, they will have you enter a dialogue with them and ask you a number of questions. You will get the right answer in a few minutes.
The mechanics who respond on Car Talk are as good as they come. It's free.
also sometimes when and if you get cheap parts the thickness of the shoes can be different make sure they are not and all return springs are in working order .. there may also be another problem? bearings? sorry not much help.vb desktop issue
Please Advise
Mechanic needs Help from other Mechanic about some brakes on a 1993 nissan maxima?
I would remove the rear drums and back off the adjustment on the emergency brake cables and make sure the emergency brake cables are not hanging up. If they are not hanging up, lightly sand the shoes off including the outer edges, install the rear drums, adjust the brakes, then adjust the emergency cable last.
Another problem could be that your return springs are weak and need to be replaced, if they are weak then they will not pull the shoes all the way back.
Mechanic needs Help from other Mechanic about some brakes on a 1993 nissan maxima?
Go to Car Talk.com and sign in. There are about a dozen mechanics there who respond quickly. In this case, they will have you enter a dialogue with them and ask you a number of questions. You will get the right answer in a few minutes.
The mechanics who respond on Car Talk are as good as they come. It's free.
also sometimes when and if you get cheap parts the thickness of the shoes can be different make sure they are not and all return springs are in working order .. there may also be another problem? bearings? sorry not much help.
Bleeding brakes, bubbles keep on commin?
I decided on changing my rear brakes, when I opened up the drum, the pads were nearly all gone (parts of it was all steel), had to replace one of the wheel cylinders too, well to make the long story short, I replaced the brake shoes, replaced the old wheel cylinder with a new one and tried to bleed the brakes, I used one of those one man brake bleeding bottles with the clear tube, well , I successfully bled the 2 rear brakes and the front brake on the left side, when i tried to bleed the brake on the front right side, the bubbles kept on coming, I must of pumped the brakes about 50 times or more, not at the same time of course, emptied my 40oz wheel cylinder oil, when the car is on, and press on the brakes , there is no pressure, the break pedal will come back up, but there is no pressure what鈥檚 so ever, Im at the end of my wits , any suggestions on what else I could do. Thank you.
94, Toyota tercel
160k
Manual transmission
Ps, the front brakes are still good.
Bleeding brakes, bubbles keep on commin?
I don't understand how you got air in the front brakes when you were only working on the rear brakes, I understand how you got air in the rear brakes but that should not effect the front brakes whatsoever.
Bleeding brakes, bubbles keep on commin?
check brake lines for any possible leaks.
You've still got a leak somewhere, check all the brake lines carefully.
Check the master cylinder for leaks..plus check each break cylinder..you have a leak somewhere from your description.
I am lost, when you opened up the drum the pads were nearly gone but you replaced a wheel cylinder. This question I dont comprehend. You ask as if you have both disc and drum brakes and I have yet to see that in 40 years. I'd take it to a reputable repair facility and have it power bled, figure around 50 bucks and go from there, might be a bad master.
if you are using a bleeder ball ? you shouldn't be pumping the brakes ! If im understanding you,did you mount a bledder ball on top of your master cylinder with it pressurized? try again start at the furthest from the master cylinder,and work your way to the closest. if still no pedal,check the booster and vacume lines
If all the other wheels bled ok you have air getting in on that side somewhere. Follow the line from the master to that wheel. Check any fittings as you come to them, the line, and check the caliper for any wet spots along the rubber boot around the piston.
Try gravity bleeding the right front....place the clear tube on the bleeder valve and place the other end in a jar with some fluid in it...make sure the end is under the fluid level. Crack open the bleeder valve a little to allow fluid to slowly bleed out and keep topping off the master. Let the fluid drain like this for 15-20 minutes, then close the valve. Repeat for the left front...always bleed from the furthest away and gradually going to the closest to the master...I.E. start with right rear, then left....then right front, then left.
Pumping the pedal while bleeding can suck air back into the system or keep producing air bubbles....sometimes better to do it with two people, one to hold constant pressure on the pedal while the other opens and closes the bleeder valve...do not release the pedal at all while opening or closing the bleeder if you use this method.
when you replace the brake shoes, you need to adjust them, otherwise they won't move far enough to reach the drum, before the pedal reaches the floor. as you let up on the pedal, the brake springs pull the shoes back in. they should be self adjusting,- each use of the parking brake SHOULD cause the adjusters to take up some of the slack that is there (if installed correctly). Try working the parking brake a dozen or two times.
bleeding - loosen the bleeder screw, put your thumb over the opening (rubber glove?). have someone pump the brakes for you. pressure will force your thumb away, spraying fluid. your thumb will prevent air from getting in, as they let up the pedal. It seems like bleeding works better, if you can keep the fluid moving faster.
94, Toyota tercel
160k
Manual transmission
Ps, the front brakes are still good.
Bleeding brakes, bubbles keep on commin?
I don't understand how you got air in the front brakes when you were only working on the rear brakes, I understand how you got air in the rear brakes but that should not effect the front brakes whatsoever.
Bleeding brakes, bubbles keep on commin?
check brake lines for any possible leaks.
You've still got a leak somewhere, check all the brake lines carefully.
Check the master cylinder for leaks..plus check each break cylinder..you have a leak somewhere from your description.
I am lost, when you opened up the drum the pads were nearly gone but you replaced a wheel cylinder. This question I dont comprehend. You ask as if you have both disc and drum brakes and I have yet to see that in 40 years. I'd take it to a reputable repair facility and have it power bled, figure around 50 bucks and go from there, might be a bad master.
if you are using a bleeder ball ? you shouldn't be pumping the brakes ! If im understanding you,did you mount a bledder ball on top of your master cylinder with it pressurized? try again start at the furthest from the master cylinder,and work your way to the closest. if still no pedal,check the booster and vacume lines
If all the other wheels bled ok you have air getting in on that side somewhere. Follow the line from the master to that wheel. Check any fittings as you come to them, the line, and check the caliper for any wet spots along the rubber boot around the piston.
Try gravity bleeding the right front....place the clear tube on the bleeder valve and place the other end in a jar with some fluid in it...make sure the end is under the fluid level. Crack open the bleeder valve a little to allow fluid to slowly bleed out and keep topping off the master. Let the fluid drain like this for 15-20 minutes, then close the valve. Repeat for the left front...always bleed from the furthest away and gradually going to the closest to the master...I.E. start with right rear, then left....then right front, then left.
Pumping the pedal while bleeding can suck air back into the system or keep producing air bubbles....sometimes better to do it with two people, one to hold constant pressure on the pedal while the other opens and closes the bleeder valve...do not release the pedal at all while opening or closing the bleeder if you use this method.
when you replace the brake shoes, you need to adjust them, otherwise they won't move far enough to reach the drum, before the pedal reaches the floor. as you let up on the pedal, the brake springs pull the shoes back in. they should be self adjusting,- each use of the parking brake SHOULD cause the adjusters to take up some of the slack that is there (if installed correctly). Try working the parking brake a dozen or two times.
bleeding - loosen the bleeder screw, put your thumb over the opening (rubber glove?). have someone pump the brakes for you. pressure will force your thumb away, spraying fluid. your thumb will prevent air from getting in, as they let up the pedal. It seems like bleeding works better, if you can keep the fluid moving faster.
Rubbing noise when braking down steep hills?
Hi,
I recently had a brake job done on my 98 Honda CRV. The front rotors and pads were changed out. Everything seems fine, but when I am going down really steep hills I get a low vibrating noise that shakes the car. I haven't had the rear drum brakes checked. Could they be the culprit or is it something due to the front brake job? The brakes seem to work fine under normal braking.
Rubbing noise when braking down steep hills?
its worth checking the rear brakes but it sounds like wrapped disc's to me
Rubbing noise when braking down steep hills?
could be easy to check brake pads your self really easy to replace brake pads your self my
wife does her own brake jobs
type into search box
how to check brake pads
how to replace brake pads
I recently had a brake job done on my 98 Honda CRV. The front rotors and pads were changed out. Everything seems fine, but when I am going down really steep hills I get a low vibrating noise that shakes the car. I haven't had the rear drum brakes checked. Could they be the culprit or is it something due to the front brake job? The brakes seem to work fine under normal braking.
Rubbing noise when braking down steep hills?
its worth checking the rear brakes but it sounds like wrapped disc's to me
Rubbing noise when braking down steep hills?
could be easy to check brake pads your self really easy to replace brake pads your self my
wife does her own brake jobs
type into search box
how to check brake pads
how to replace brake pads
Do these prices for brake repairs sound inflated, or is it just me?
Ceramic disk break pads: $34.99 parts
Basic brake job front: $105 labor
Brake Rotor $80 parts
Brake shoe set, $48 parts
Basic brake job rear drum $105 labor
brake system flush: $12.99 parts
Brake system flush labor $62
Brake fluid disposal $2.60
Total:
Recommended parts: 178.57
Labor 272
shop supplies: $15
Tax 30
====
Total 498
$500 to change my brakes sheesh
Do these prices for brake repairs sound inflated, or is it just me?
Sounds pretty right to me. Remember mechanic's labour is charged at around $60 an hour.
Do these prices for brake repairs sound inflated, or is it just me?
be glad you dont drive a super duty, it costs at least double that.
i don't pay labor ever, and i spent 400+ on my last brake job.
you know, if you list the year, make and model ill look in the book and see what the labor time is, then you can at least see if they rounded that number up.
you could probably do it with a friend for about 250
That is a pretty extensive brake job. $498 sounds about right for the amount of labor and parts involved.
VOLVO 23-Mar-07 BRAKES - RIGHT FRONT CALIPER, FRONT PADS AND ROTORS 146,139 $525.88
This is from our file on car maintenance. Not done at a dealer, done by an independent guy that does Volvos.
Yeah that sounds about right however , There is a place by me JUST BRAKES they get 98.00 per wheel + if you need any other parts that will be the cheapest I have found, but of course I replace my own brakes. hope this helps. I hate to rain on your parade but I bid my brakes for $77.00 complete turned rotors.
That sounds about right.Every shop charges %26quot;flat rate%26quot; fees. I dont think you got ripped off.
hate to say it but its normal next time buy the parts else where they would have been cheaper if you bought the brakes from autozone they give you a life time warranty on them and use a mobile mechanic. i'm one and would have done that for 90 even. and i doubt they actually flushed your brake system or if it even needed. thats just another way for them to scam money from you
That's not really all that bad.
Basic brake job front: $105 labor
Brake Rotor $80 parts
Brake shoe set, $48 parts
Basic brake job rear drum $105 labor
brake system flush: $12.99 parts
Brake system flush labor $62
Brake fluid disposal $2.60
Total:
Recommended parts: 178.57
Labor 272
shop supplies: $15
Tax 30
====
Total 498
$500 to change my brakes sheesh
Do these prices for brake repairs sound inflated, or is it just me?
Sounds pretty right to me. Remember mechanic's labour is charged at around $60 an hour.
Do these prices for brake repairs sound inflated, or is it just me?
be glad you dont drive a super duty, it costs at least double that.
i don't pay labor ever, and i spent 400+ on my last brake job.
you know, if you list the year, make and model ill look in the book and see what the labor time is, then you can at least see if they rounded that number up.
you could probably do it with a friend for about 250
That is a pretty extensive brake job. $498 sounds about right for the amount of labor and parts involved.
VOLVO 23-Mar-07 BRAKES - RIGHT FRONT CALIPER, FRONT PADS AND ROTORS 146,139 $525.88
This is from our file on car maintenance. Not done at a dealer, done by an independent guy that does Volvos.
Yeah that sounds about right however , There is a place by me JUST BRAKES they get 98.00 per wheel + if you need any other parts that will be the cheapest I have found, but of course I replace my own brakes. hope this helps. I hate to rain on your parade but I bid my brakes for $77.00 complete turned rotors.
That sounds about right.Every shop charges %26quot;flat rate%26quot; fees. I dont think you got ripped off.
hate to say it but its normal next time buy the parts else where they would have been cheaper if you bought the brakes from autozone they give you a life time warranty on them and use a mobile mechanic. i'm one and would have done that for 90 even. and i doubt they actually flushed your brake system or if it even needed. thats just another way for them to scam money from you
That's not really all that bad.
I just changed the brakes on my car (rotors,pads,drums,shoes)shoul鈥?i be hearing any noises coming from them?
NO
I just changed the brakes on my car (rotors,pads,drums,shoes)shoul鈥?i be hearing any noises coming from them?
Yeah, sometimes you may hear a squeak or maybe a grinding noise for a little while after they're changed. It should go away pretty quickly. If it doesn't, take it to the shop to have it looked at.
I just changed the brakes on my car (rotors,pads,drums,shoes)shoul鈥?i be hearing any noises coming from them?
the only noise u would here is if they are wet other than that no you should not here a noise
No. I once did brakes on a rear drum application %26amp; a spring came loose %26amp; I heard grinding as it gouged out my drum. Believe it or not, I once put a front pad in backwards -- that definitely made some noise %26amp; embarrassed the **** out of me. If there is any moral to these stories I have told, it is: maybe recheck your work one wheel at a time.
Only if we live in a perfect world. If you had all that done in a shop, go back to them, they should guarantee no brake noise.
yes
I just changed the brakes on my car (rotors,pads,drums,shoes)shoul鈥?i be hearing any noises coming from them?
Yeah, sometimes you may hear a squeak or maybe a grinding noise for a little while after they're changed. It should go away pretty quickly. If it doesn't, take it to the shop to have it looked at.
I just changed the brakes on my car (rotors,pads,drums,shoes)shoul鈥?i be hearing any noises coming from them?
the only noise u would here is if they are wet other than that no you should not here a noise
No. I once did brakes on a rear drum application %26amp; a spring came loose %26amp; I heard grinding as it gouged out my drum. Believe it or not, I once put a front pad in backwards -- that definitely made some noise %26amp; embarrassed the **** out of me. If there is any moral to these stories I have told, it is: maybe recheck your work one wheel at a time.
Only if we live in a perfect world. If you had all that done in a shop, go back to them, they should guarantee no brake noise.
yes
Do rear brake pads need to be replaced at the same time as rear brake pads?
My car has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes, does it matter if I replace only the front pads, or do they both need to be changed at the same time?
Do rear brake pads need to be replaced at the same time as rear brake pads?
It's best to do them all at once, that way they will wear equally. Why pay for two brake jobs?
Do rear brake pads need to be replaced at the same time as rear brake pads?
HUH??? I think I see what you are asking. The answer is no, the front and rears do NOT need to be done at the same time, NORMALLY. There are a few exceptions, though. If your rear drums have locked up, they force the front brakes to do more work. But, the chances of both fronts and rears needing replacement at the same time is pretty low.
The front pads wear much quicker than the rear brake shoes as most of your braking is done on the front brakes, pull the rear wheels off and the drums and look to see how much brake lining is left on the shoes before you replace them.
The rear brakes on any car, regardless of type usually last longer than the front, and it's OK to just replace the worn set if the other set is still good.
You might want to read your questions before you post.
Rear brake shoes usually last a lot longer than the front pads.
it does not matter .
You may change three times the front and the rear will be not even close to wear out line.make a line invisible creating file
Do rear brake pads need to be replaced at the same time as rear brake pads?
It's best to do them all at once, that way they will wear equally. Why pay for two brake jobs?
Do rear brake pads need to be replaced at the same time as rear brake pads?
HUH??? I think I see what you are asking. The answer is no, the front and rears do NOT need to be done at the same time, NORMALLY. There are a few exceptions, though. If your rear drums have locked up, they force the front brakes to do more work. But, the chances of both fronts and rears needing replacement at the same time is pretty low.
The front pads wear much quicker than the rear brake shoes as most of your braking is done on the front brakes, pull the rear wheels off and the drums and look to see how much brake lining is left on the shoes before you replace them.
The rear brakes on any car, regardless of type usually last longer than the front, and it's OK to just replace the worn set if the other set is still good.
You might want to read your questions before you post.
Rear brake shoes usually last a lot longer than the front pads.
it does not matter .
You may change three times the front and the rear will be not even close to wear out line.
Having a mitsubishi eclipse gs 1999 is it good idea to have? (without being modified)?
also it has drum brakes in the rear wheels and disk brakes in the front wheels.... is it better to change all four wheels too disk brakes or leave it the same? and which is the best type of motor oil should be used for that car?10w-30?
Having a mitsubishi eclipse gs 1999 is it good idea to have? (without being modified)?
unless you are racing and have lots of ponies, the brakes are fine. Maybe some slotted rotors and carbon fiber pads up front. As far as oil, I would use 5W-30 unless it is really warm out.
Having a mitsubishi eclipse gs 1999 is it good idea to have? (without being modified)?
unless you are racing and have lots of ponies, the brakes are fine. Maybe some slotted rotors and carbon fiber pads up front. As far as oil, I would use 5W-30 unless it is really warm out.
Why brake padel pulsate when brakes are applied?
I have a mazda protege 2000. 2 months back i changed the rear brake pads and drums on both the wheels, since both were in bad shape. At that time whenever i applied bark i used to feel pulsation in brake padel. I though that brake drums may be deformed and pads are not in good shape, so both causing it. After replacing everything (pads and drums), i still feel same pulsation whenever i apply the brake.
Now here is a strange observation.
Before moving, if i pull the parking brake lever full (upto the extend it can travel) and then release it, then for distance i don't feel that pulsation when brake padel is pressed, but after pressing brake padel for 6-7 times, symtoms again appears.
So to avoid this, i usually pull parking brake lever many times during my travel from home to office. Whenever i am traffic light, i usually pull the parking brake once, to make sure that brake work properly. I am not sure whats causing this ? Any suggestion? Can loose parking brake can cause this?
Why brake padel pulsate when brakes are applied?
it the ab system
Why brake padel pulsate when brakes are applied?
sounds like something in the abs system
its your front brake rotors that out of spec
its called lateral run out
seeing its a 2000 I,d purchase a pair of rotors and pads clean and lube the caliper slides after the repair is done torque your wheels on to 80 ft lbs
most of your braking is done on the front wheels, I would say that the front rotors are warped and thats why you are getting the pulsating in the brake pedal.
Now here is a strange observation.
Before moving, if i pull the parking brake lever full (upto the extend it can travel) and then release it, then for distance i don't feel that pulsation when brake padel is pressed, but after pressing brake padel for 6-7 times, symtoms again appears.
So to avoid this, i usually pull parking brake lever many times during my travel from home to office. Whenever i am traffic light, i usually pull the parking brake once, to make sure that brake work properly. I am not sure whats causing this ? Any suggestion? Can loose parking brake can cause this?
Why brake padel pulsate when brakes are applied?
it the ab system
Why brake padel pulsate when brakes are applied?
sounds like something in the abs system
its your front brake rotors that out of spec
its called lateral run out
seeing its a 2000 I,d purchase a pair of rotors and pads clean and lube the caliper slides after the repair is done torque your wheels on to 80 ft lbs
most of your braking is done on the front wheels, I would say that the front rotors are warped and thats why you are getting the pulsating in the brake pedal.
Brakes pulse when i brake and right front wears faster than left front and rear end drops at slow speeds?
usually rear end reacts after reversing and going forward again like during parallel parking. i have also changed all brakes and front rotors and rear drums multiple times thinking it might just be warping issues but still get same outcome
Brakes pulse when i brake and right front wears faster than left front and rear end drops at slow speeds?
the sliding bols on the front caliper(s) need pulled out , cleaned and greased, this should correct those issues...
Brakes pulse when i brake and right front wears faster than left front and rear end drops at slow speeds?
Sounds like a hydraulic issue or did you lube the caliper slides and the backing plates where the shoes sit? This could be causing it.
try adjusting the rear shoes a little bit tighter against the drums.sounds like the front pads are carrying all the load.
You may have bad bearings in the right front. If your tire tread is lower on the inside, than the outside, then it probably is the bearings, making the whole wheel tire assembly point inward a little, putting more force on certain areas of the brake pads.
Brakes pulse when i brake and right front wears faster than left front and rear end drops at slow speeds?
the sliding bols on the front caliper(s) need pulled out , cleaned and greased, this should correct those issues...
Brakes pulse when i brake and right front wears faster than left front and rear end drops at slow speeds?
Sounds like a hydraulic issue or did you lube the caliper slides and the backing plates where the shoes sit? This could be causing it.
try adjusting the rear shoes a little bit tighter against the drums.sounds like the front pads are carrying all the load.
You may have bad bearings in the right front. If your tire tread is lower on the inside, than the outside, then it probably is the bearings, making the whole wheel tire assembly point inward a little, putting more force on certain areas of the brake pads.
How to change brake shoes on a piaggio typhoon 125cc moped?
My rear brake is not at all strong and there is alot of freeplay on the left lever. I have tightened the brake wire under the engine case to the fullest and there is no difference, so im assuming its the brake shoes worn out. (Its not a disc brake its a drum brake)
To change the brake shoes what will i need to do. Will i need to loosen the wire, then change the shoes, then tighten the wire back up?
How to change brake shoes on a piaggio typhoon 125cc moped?
contact me via my avitar...ill give you a link for a free manual download...
How to change brake shoes on a piaggio typhoon 125cc moped?
slow down, you probably dont need new brakes, there adjuster you need to tighten is on the brake drum lever, its just a nut that is screwed onto the actuating rod, you will see its threaded for 2 or 3 inches, you should just need to screw it in, if its that loose, you will probably have to screw it further on quite a bit, like 1/2 to 1 cm.
To change the brake shoes what will i need to do. Will i need to loosen the wire, then change the shoes, then tighten the wire back up?
How to change brake shoes on a piaggio typhoon 125cc moped?
contact me via my avitar...ill give you a link for a free manual download...
How to change brake shoes on a piaggio typhoon 125cc moped?
slow down, you probably dont need new brakes, there adjuster you need to tighten is on the brake drum lever, its just a nut that is screwed onto the actuating rod, you will see its threaded for 2 or 3 inches, you should just need to screw it in, if its that loose, you will probably have to screw it further on quite a bit, like 1/2 to 1 cm.
How do you remove the rear brake hubs on a 1989 Toyota Dyna 200 ?
I've changed the drum brakes on the front, the hub just comes off after removing wheels and 2 screws. The rear drum brakes have reached maximum adjustment and now are starting to jam on. I couldn't find a workshop manual for this vehicle and I don't want to start smacking it with the hammer and break something (probably my finger). The wheels are removed, the 6 retaining nuts are removed, do I need to use a puller or twist the bit in the centre? This is a single wheel set up, not dual wheels. Any mechanical advice much appreciated, Cheers Stu.
How do you remove the rear brake hubs on a 1989 Toyota Dyna 200 ?
sounds like you may have to hammer side to side and pry side to side a little at a time, I've been there many times.
Unless there is a way to access the adjuster gear from the back...some vehicles have a rubber thing that can be removed, just don't turn it tighter.
How do you remove the rear brake hubs on a 1989 Toyota Dyna 200 ?
Gonk or STP Injector cleaner %26quot;1 bottle to 3/4 tank of gas%26quot; or at a good station they have Pressurized cans of Injector cleaner they will use to clean the System faster.web hosting problem drawing a circle
How do you remove the rear brake hubs on a 1989 Toyota Dyna 200 ?
sounds like you may have to hammer side to side and pry side to side a little at a time, I've been there many times.
Unless there is a way to access the adjuster gear from the back...some vehicles have a rubber thing that can be removed, just don't turn it tighter.
How do you remove the rear brake hubs on a 1989 Toyota Dyna 200 ?
Gonk or STP Injector cleaner %26quot;1 bottle to 3/4 tank of gas%26quot; or at a good station they have Pressurized cans of Injector cleaner they will use to clean the System faster.
Can anyone tell me if a 71 Camaro front supension will fit on a 64 Chevelle?
I want to change my 64 Chevelle from front drum brakes to front rotors.
I already have a 71 Camaro that I thought may be a donor.
The Camaro has factory front rotors on it
Will the rotors fit just by removing the ball joints and installing them onto the stock Chevelle a-arms?
Or do I need to install the Camaro a-arms, springs, etc to the Chevelle?
Will any option work? Thanks
Can anyone tell me if a 71 Camaro front supension will fit on a 64 Chevelle?
Not likely.
Can anyone tell me if a 71 Camaro front supension will fit on a 64 Chevelle?
it will work either way.if it was me i would just change the spindles off the ball joints.
you would have to change the a-arms, springs and everything else from the camaro to the chevelle. that way everything lines up and theres no problems later down the road, the car wont dog track goin down the road this way..if you were to just change the roters it would cause problems after a while.
install camaro a arms %26amp; springs
It could work but why do all that work tryin to make Fbody stuff work on another body?
I already have a 71 Camaro that I thought may be a donor.
The Camaro has factory front rotors on it
Will the rotors fit just by removing the ball joints and installing them onto the stock Chevelle a-arms?
Or do I need to install the Camaro a-arms, springs, etc to the Chevelle?
Will any option work? Thanks
Can anyone tell me if a 71 Camaro front supension will fit on a 64 Chevelle?
Not likely.
Can anyone tell me if a 71 Camaro front supension will fit on a 64 Chevelle?
it will work either way.if it was me i would just change the spindles off the ball joints.
you would have to change the a-arms, springs and everything else from the camaro to the chevelle. that way everything lines up and theres no problems later down the road, the car wont dog track goin down the road this way..if you were to just change the roters it would cause problems after a while.
install camaro a arms %26amp; springs
It could work but why do all that work tryin to make Fbody stuff work on another body?
What auto part store will let me work on my car in the parking lot?
nw suburb of illinois, I need to work on my car. will any auto part store allow me to work on my car (change oil, brake pads, drums) in their parking lot after I buy oil and pads from them?
napa? autozone? murray's?
What auto part store will let me work on my car in the parking lot?
Autozone always let me here in new hampshire. Discount Auto Parts does also if u have 1.
What auto part store will let me work on my car in the parking lot?
I think auto-zone would be the most likely, they let my dad and I work on his battery and even let us borrow some tools.
none/its an insurance thing/they let you and jack comes down they get sued
this person giving thumbs down does not know that auto-zone despite insurance concerns will not say anything to you if you work in the parking lot. but they are not responsible for your well being. how do i know? i used to work for auto-zone. and yes zone-rs do help on occasion when not on the clock.
auto zone is pretty cool about it
yeah, autozone is usually cool about it, they let me change the starter in the parking lot. Just dont park all the way in the front
autozone has helped me change the brakes on mine in the parking lot.
napa? autozone? murray's?
What auto part store will let me work on my car in the parking lot?
Autozone always let me here in new hampshire. Discount Auto Parts does also if u have 1.
What auto part store will let me work on my car in the parking lot?
I think auto-zone would be the most likely, they let my dad and I work on his battery and even let us borrow some tools.
none/its an insurance thing/they let you and jack comes down they get sued
this person giving thumbs down does not know that auto-zone despite insurance concerns will not say anything to you if you work in the parking lot. but they are not responsible for your well being. how do i know? i used to work for auto-zone. and yes zone-rs do help on occasion when not on the clock.
auto zone is pretty cool about it
yeah, autozone is usually cool about it, they let me change the starter in the parking lot. Just dont park all the way in the front
autozone has helped me change the brakes on mine in the parking lot.
Problems with ford mustang brake drum, help!?
Having changed all the brake components for my 66 mustang i have ran into a small problem, the brake drum wont go back on, i bought the correct brake drums for the vehicle along with new brake shoes, an all brand new springs. should i just get a rubber mallet and smack it on? or is there a trick to this. it is only slightly out
Problems with ford mustang brake drum, help!?
Is the adjuster all the way in? You may have the adjuster expanded (pushing the shoes out too far).
Make sure the adjuster is in tight since you have more surface with the new drums + shoe pad.
Problems with ford mustang brake drum, help!?
did you screw the adjuster all the way in? then after you slip it on, adjust it back out until it barely touches..if you don't, you won't be able to bleed them..
did you get the right brakes? the six are lot's smaller.. or did you mix up the front to back? the backs are smaller..
make sure the shoes are all the way in on top and could the shoes be a little bigger?
COMPARE THE OLD PARTS TO NEW PARTS !!! IF U GOT A WRONG PART, (WHICH COULD HAPPEND ON OLD CAARS ESPECIALLY !!!) THE NEW ADJUSTER MAY BE LONGER THEN THE OLD ONE- IN THAT CASE PUT THE OLD ONE BACK ! OR U MAY PUT IT BACKWARDS !
HAVE 2 C IT FIRST...
adjuster has to be screwed all the way in, and usually new drum and brake shoes are a tight fit if it comes from a parts house, if adjuster is all the way back and drum won't go on, open cylinder bleeder valve to help, and or cut drum
Its good to back off the self adjuster but, the top of the brake shoes are still in the same position. Loosen the bleeder screw and let some fluid out to contract the top of the shoes. NO hammer on these. You will break the linings. You will need to bleed the brakes after this.
Problems with ford mustang brake drum, help!?
Is the adjuster all the way in? You may have the adjuster expanded (pushing the shoes out too far).
Make sure the adjuster is in tight since you have more surface with the new drums + shoe pad.
Problems with ford mustang brake drum, help!?
did you screw the adjuster all the way in? then after you slip it on, adjust it back out until it barely touches..if you don't, you won't be able to bleed them..
did you get the right brakes? the six are lot's smaller.. or did you mix up the front to back? the backs are smaller..
make sure the shoes are all the way in on top and could the shoes be a little bigger?
COMPARE THE OLD PARTS TO NEW PARTS !!! IF U GOT A WRONG PART, (WHICH COULD HAPPEND ON OLD CAARS ESPECIALLY !!!) THE NEW ADJUSTER MAY BE LONGER THEN THE OLD ONE- IN THAT CASE PUT THE OLD ONE BACK ! OR U MAY PUT IT BACKWARDS !
HAVE 2 C IT FIRST...
adjuster has to be screwed all the way in, and usually new drum and brake shoes are a tight fit if it comes from a parts house, if adjuster is all the way back and drum won't go on, open cylinder bleeder valve to help, and or cut drum
Its good to back off the self adjuster but, the top of the brake shoes are still in the same position. Loosen the bleeder screw and let some fluid out to contract the top of the shoes. NO hammer on these. You will break the linings. You will need to bleed the brakes after this.
How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
Hi, ive messed up. ive changed the wheel cylinder and shoes on the rear of my Renault 5 (1996). I did the nearside first, it was alittle tight getting the drum back on so i knocked it home with a hammer and went about doing the offside.
as i was putting the drum back on the offside, I backed off the adjuster and it occured to me that was why the nearside was tight to get on.
anyway, I tried putting the wheels back on, but the nearside rear wont turn as i drive. Now I cant get he damn Drum off to back off the adjuster.
Ive just spent an entire day trying to get it off but it just wont budge.
we're due to go on holiday in this car in approx 36 hours!
What on earth am i going to do?
How do i get the drum off? the handbrake is backed off, theres no pressure in the cylinder as ive disconnected the hose. It must be the adjuster pushing the shoes into the drum. Ive tried hammers, levers etc, but it just will not come off
Please, If you have any idea, help me.
Thank you in advance
How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
oh, bad luck. right, whats happening is the retaining clips (which pull the shoes back, parrallel to the brake drum face) arent.
so, when you try to remove the drum, the shoes are jamming against the drum face. theres only two ways to remove this, 1 using levers on opposite sides of the drum, insert and lever forwards, and get you mate to bash the drum with a rubber or hide mallet whilst its under pressure.
2. on some renaults theres a keyhole window behnd the backplate, you can insert a small flat bladed screwdriver and rotate teh adjusters so its in the off position... (down is off i think)
3 find a skip, cut along the A frame, and th B post, then itll fit into the skip and you wot have to worry about it anymore... #
seriously, phone renault and ask to speak to a mechanic. but ive had to do this many times, on many different cars, and as has already been suggested, its bloody hard work, and its almost always scraps the wheel drum.
this is what happens when unqualified folk start playing around trying to save a few quid... so how much is this going to cost to put right? and im sorry chap, but who are you trying to kill, yourself or some innocent guy on the other carriageway?
lets put it like this, brakes systems on cars are simple, they have to be, but, its just as easy to screw up, as it is to get it right. and you only get one chance to get it wrong... then it kills you.
so, dont think of saving pennies, think about the life you save, it may be yours... phone quickfit, or some other service and pay the bill.
How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
have you tried heat around the adjuster that might work
You'll just have to keep hitting it until it releases, theres not much else you can do
You could try what this guy did - if you don't have access to the Haynes Manual which should show you how to get to the adjuster.....???
no nice way of doing this, either borrow a slide hammer, or try putting the road wheel on with 2 bolts try waggling it again but failing that get a bolster chisel in from behind the drum (i know there is not much room) and batter it off.
be prepared for a new spring kit at the very least.
as i was putting the drum back on the offside, I backed off the adjuster and it occured to me that was why the nearside was tight to get on.
anyway, I tried putting the wheels back on, but the nearside rear wont turn as i drive. Now I cant get he damn Drum off to back off the adjuster.
Ive just spent an entire day trying to get it off but it just wont budge.
we're due to go on holiday in this car in approx 36 hours!
What on earth am i going to do?
How do i get the drum off? the handbrake is backed off, theres no pressure in the cylinder as ive disconnected the hose. It must be the adjuster pushing the shoes into the drum. Ive tried hammers, levers etc, but it just will not come off
Please, If you have any idea, help me.
Thank you in advance
How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
oh, bad luck. right, whats happening is the retaining clips (which pull the shoes back, parrallel to the brake drum face) arent.
so, when you try to remove the drum, the shoes are jamming against the drum face. theres only two ways to remove this, 1 using levers on opposite sides of the drum, insert and lever forwards, and get you mate to bash the drum with a rubber or hide mallet whilst its under pressure.
2. on some renaults theres a keyhole window behnd the backplate, you can insert a small flat bladed screwdriver and rotate teh adjusters so its in the off position... (down is off i think)
3 find a skip, cut along the A frame, and th B post, then itll fit into the skip and you wot have to worry about it anymore... #
seriously, phone renault and ask to speak to a mechanic. but ive had to do this many times, on many different cars, and as has already been suggested, its bloody hard work, and its almost always scraps the wheel drum.
this is what happens when unqualified folk start playing around trying to save a few quid... so how much is this going to cost to put right? and im sorry chap, but who are you trying to kill, yourself or some innocent guy on the other carriageway?
lets put it like this, brakes systems on cars are simple, they have to be, but, its just as easy to screw up, as it is to get it right. and you only get one chance to get it wrong... then it kills you.
so, dont think of saving pennies, think about the life you save, it may be yours... phone quickfit, or some other service and pay the bill.
How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
have you tried heat around the adjuster that might work
You'll just have to keep hitting it until it releases, theres not much else you can do
You could try what this guy did - if you don't have access to the Haynes Manual which should show you how to get to the adjuster.....???
no nice way of doing this, either borrow a slide hammer, or try putting the road wheel on with 2 bolts try waggling it again but failing that get a bolster chisel in from behind the drum (i know there is not much room) and batter it off.
be prepared for a new spring kit at the very least.
Steering wheel and brake pedal pulsate when braking...?
I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse.The faster i brake in my car the more the front end of it seems to shake as well as the steering wheel and brake pedal shakes. I looked in my haynes manual and it doesnt say much. I just changed the outter tie rod today bc it was blown. i do know i need an alignment now but beside that my front end is still doing the same shuttering when i brake. Could it be the wheel bearing?something else? also my rotors are fine but i do need to change the drum brakes but that i dont think has any thing to do with it but throwing it out there. any ideas would be great thank you!
Steering wheel and brake pedal pulsate when braking...?
You have a very common problem. Your front brake rotors are warped. The fact that it only does it while your braking and that the steering wheel shakes is a dead bang description of this. A good shop will check the rotors using a micrometer to measure the 'run out' and repair this accordingly by either turning the warped rotors on a lathe or replacing them with a new set as well as making sure the rear brakes are fine and verifying the repair with a test drive.
Steering wheel and brake pedal pulsate when braking...?
Notice %26quot;only when i brake%26quot;.
You have one of the following.. warped rotors, and/or, your calipers slide
pins NEED to be greased, because their supposed to be able to %26quot;float%26quot;,
when they dont float only one side of the pads gets pressed against the rotor, that
causes a pull first of all, and uneven brake pad wear. pulsating is warped/ out of round
rotors.. ABS does pulsate but only when your on limited traction surfaces.
Could be a few things. Warped rotor, bad master cylinder, bad break booster, if it has power brakes. That's why everything would %26quot;shakes%26quot; as you apply the breaks. I doubt it's the alignment that would cause that. Not when you brake.
any time you change steering parts you need a wheel alignment and now what you need is either new brake rotors or have yours resurfaced as they are heat warped and causing the shake when you brake.graphics animation row cell
Steering wheel and brake pedal pulsate when braking...?
You have a very common problem. Your front brake rotors are warped. The fact that it only does it while your braking and that the steering wheel shakes is a dead bang description of this. A good shop will check the rotors using a micrometer to measure the 'run out' and repair this accordingly by either turning the warped rotors on a lathe or replacing them with a new set as well as making sure the rear brakes are fine and verifying the repair with a test drive.
Steering wheel and brake pedal pulsate when braking...?
Notice %26quot;only when i brake%26quot;.
You have one of the following.. warped rotors, and/or, your calipers slide
pins NEED to be greased, because their supposed to be able to %26quot;float%26quot;,
when they dont float only one side of the pads gets pressed against the rotor, that
causes a pull first of all, and uneven brake pad wear. pulsating is warped/ out of round
rotors.. ABS does pulsate but only when your on limited traction surfaces.
Could be a few things. Warped rotor, bad master cylinder, bad break booster, if it has power brakes. That's why everything would %26quot;shakes%26quot; as you apply the breaks. I doubt it's the alignment that would cause that. Not when you brake.
any time you change steering parts you need a wheel alignment and now what you need is either new brake rotors or have yours resurfaced as they are heat warped and causing the shake when you brake.
Will this be an easy thing to do?
94 geo prizm. i have front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. i heard changing the back to disc brakes will greatly increase stopping power. Will i be able to get disc brakes for the rear easily or is it not a normal part for that make? Im wanting to know if its going to be a real pain in the ### or if it can be done easily.
Will this be an easy thing to do?
A GEO PRIZM????? how fast do you think you're going to GO in this thing???? Come on, man, be serious........don't waste your money. Buy a REAL performance car.
Will this be an easy thing to do?
It will be a pain.Not sure they even made rear disc for a Prizm.
your Prizm is the same as a Toyota Corolla. except that your suffered a major De-tunnig, meaning that the engine's power band was reduced intentionally by GM.
visit a Corolla forum over the net. they have your answer and then some.
those guys talking smack about your ride don't know sh!t.
Will this be an easy thing to do?
A GEO PRIZM????? how fast do you think you're going to GO in this thing???? Come on, man, be serious........don't waste your money. Buy a REAL performance car.
Will this be an easy thing to do?
It will be a pain.Not sure they even made rear disc for a Prizm.
your Prizm is the same as a Toyota Corolla. except that your suffered a major De-tunnig, meaning that the engine's power band was reduced intentionally by GM.
visit a Corolla forum over the net. they have your answer and then some.
those guys talking smack about your ride don't know sh!t.
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