I have a '88 Acura legend and im trying to be a little thrifty by changing my own brakes but im hoping that somone can tell me whether it is a drum in the back brakes or a disc... Actually Im not doing it myself, my dad is and this is what he wanted me to find out...
I know that it is the back brakes that are bad. Anybody with any information on this please help!
What kind of brakes are in a 1988 Acura Legend?
Hate to burst your bubble...but usually brakes go in pairs (if you keep driving on them). Meaning if the bad brakes are bad your front brakes will go bad overcompensating for the back not working as they should. Just saying...
But to answer your question. Your back brakes should actually be disc brakes (I checked ebay). They could be drums but it's fairly easy to tell the difference. If your front brakes look like your rear brakes (meaning there's ROTORS) then you have disc brakes, if not you have discs in the front and drums in the back.
What kind of brakes are in a 1988 Acura Legend?
Save your money else where! Brakes are a MAJOR safety factor. You are not only putting yourself at risk in this situation. Your question is a dead give-a-way for your lack of knowledge. Sounds like your dad doesn't have a clue either.
Saturday 24 September 2011
Need a little help?
i know how to change brake pads but i never seen any brake drums before, can i change drums and turn the rotors at home or should i leave that up to the mechanics?
Need a little help?
Buy a chiltons manual for your car, a set of brake spring pliers and a shoe retainer tool. It's a piece of cake. Only do one side at a time so you'll have the otherside to refer too.
Need a little help?
if your not sure about brakes you should leave it to a proffesional. if they fail...... your screwed!!
Turning rotors requires a metal lathe. I don't think you have one at home. If you do go for it! With someone to help who has done it, it is easy. Especially on an automatic machine.
Anyway, drum breaks are a nightmare. Springs flying everywhere. It is kind of dangerous work. Not to mention, it is absolutely filthy work. I would swap the front pads and rotors yourself and bring it somewhere to have the drums done.
Also, you need a few special tools to pull, remove and replace the springs in a drum setup.
If you have even minimal mechanical skills you will have no problem. Take one side apart at a time in case you get confused on how the springs go back on, that way you will have a reference. Most auto parts stores sell brake spring tools...get some they shouldn't be over $25 and it will make it a lot easier than trying to use pliers or vice grips.Block the wheels on the opposite end of the car, jack the back (or front) or the car up ,use jack stands, remove the drums and clean everything with a brake cleaner. Do the one side, leave the drum off, do the other side. Take the drums to a shop and get them %26quot;turned%26quot;.You will probably have to adjust the brakes after you put everything back together, the access hole is usually on the back of the shield (you may have to knock out the plug) It also might not be a bad idea to mark the drums..left or right. Get a shop manual for your vehicle..it is probably the most important single investment you can make if you are going to do repairs yourself. I am glad to see that some people still have the skills and desire to do things for themselves. Not only do you save loads of money, you also get the satisfaction of doing something your self and you learn more about your vehicle. Save lots of money,have fun and be careful.....safety first.
Need a little help?
Buy a chiltons manual for your car, a set of brake spring pliers and a shoe retainer tool. It's a piece of cake. Only do one side at a time so you'll have the otherside to refer too.
Need a little help?
if your not sure about brakes you should leave it to a proffesional. if they fail...... your screwed!!
Turning rotors requires a metal lathe. I don't think you have one at home. If you do go for it! With someone to help who has done it, it is easy. Especially on an automatic machine.
Anyway, drum breaks are a nightmare. Springs flying everywhere. It is kind of dangerous work. Not to mention, it is absolutely filthy work. I would swap the front pads and rotors yourself and bring it somewhere to have the drums done.
Also, you need a few special tools to pull, remove and replace the springs in a drum setup.
If you have even minimal mechanical skills you will have no problem. Take one side apart at a time in case you get confused on how the springs go back on, that way you will have a reference. Most auto parts stores sell brake spring tools...get some they shouldn't be over $25 and it will make it a lot easier than trying to use pliers or vice grips.Block the wheels on the opposite end of the car, jack the back (or front) or the car up ,use jack stands, remove the drums and clean everything with a brake cleaner. Do the one side, leave the drum off, do the other side. Take the drums to a shop and get them %26quot;turned%26quot;.You will probably have to adjust the brakes after you put everything back together, the access hole is usually on the back of the shield (you may have to knock out the plug) It also might not be a bad idea to mark the drums..left or right. Get a shop manual for your vehicle..it is probably the most important single investment you can make if you are going to do repairs yourself. I am glad to see that some people still have the skills and desire to do things for themselves. Not only do you save loads of money, you also get the satisfaction of doing something your self and you learn more about your vehicle. Save lots of money,have fun and be careful.....safety first.
Friend drove my corolla for 15miles with handbreak on.?
brake felt much softer, and it sank slowly after I push it. Later dealer changed one drum, but brake still feels softer than before. what else should I check ?
Friend drove my corolla for 15miles with handbreak on.?
If they drove 15 miles i think they should have checked the wheel cylinders too. There was soo much heat they probbily ruined the seals in the cylinders. I would also check/ bleed the system. This happed to a customer of mine on a truck. I had to replace both drums, shoes and wheel cylinders.
Friend drove my corolla for 15miles with handbreak on.?
The other drum. I am surprised they didn't change both drums so to keep even wear on them.
definitely replace both drums and shoes, have them adjusted as well...
They could have boiled the brake fluid and induced air in the brake line. That could explain the soft braking. If the dealer changed the brake, they should have bled the brakes and fixed that.
oops!!!! check the fuild leve it may leak now
probably just need to be adjusted. handbrake only operates the rear brakes. they should be self adjusting but it will take some time for it to adjust itself back where it needs to be. if it has drum brakes you can adjust it with a flat head screwdriver and it only takes a few minutes.
sounds like you need to get brake fluid changed, also rear wheel bearings/grease checked.
You should assume that to get this back right is your responsibillity as well! If you are placing all of this onto your warranty,then you should be a-shamed! S--t happens and now is the time to start a dialouge with your dealership. Your way of approaching things may not be in the best interests (long term relationships) of all the parties involved! To rectify the situation you must give honest insight to more than the actual damage,you must be willing to humble yourself to a level that includes honest investment. Investment into the township's future as a whole.
Rear Brake Job at %26quot;Friends Expense%26quot;, Cylinders, Lines (From the Soft, Spongy Feel), Etc. Caused by the Extreme Heat Caused by the E-Brake Being on while Driving!!
Friend drove my corolla for 15miles with handbreak on.?
If they drove 15 miles i think they should have checked the wheel cylinders too. There was soo much heat they probbily ruined the seals in the cylinders. I would also check/ bleed the system. This happed to a customer of mine on a truck. I had to replace both drums, shoes and wheel cylinders.
Friend drove my corolla for 15miles with handbreak on.?
The other drum. I am surprised they didn't change both drums so to keep even wear on them.
definitely replace both drums and shoes, have them adjusted as well...
They could have boiled the brake fluid and induced air in the brake line. That could explain the soft braking. If the dealer changed the brake, they should have bled the brakes and fixed that.
oops!!!! check the fuild leve it may leak now
probably just need to be adjusted. handbrake only operates the rear brakes. they should be self adjusting but it will take some time for it to adjust itself back where it needs to be. if it has drum brakes you can adjust it with a flat head screwdriver and it only takes a few minutes.
sounds like you need to get brake fluid changed, also rear wheel bearings/grease checked.
You should assume that to get this back right is your responsibillity as well! If you are placing all of this onto your warranty,then you should be a-shamed! S--t happens and now is the time to start a dialouge with your dealership. Your way of approaching things may not be in the best interests (long term relationships) of all the parties involved! To rectify the situation you must give honest insight to more than the actual damage,you must be willing to humble yourself to a level that includes honest investment. Investment into the township's future as a whole.
Rear Brake Job at %26quot;Friends Expense%26quot;, Cylinders, Lines (From the Soft, Spongy Feel), Etc. Caused by the Extreme Heat Caused by the E-Brake Being on while Driving!!
Can someone help me?
I have a 1946 Dodge pickup with a straight axle has anyone changed the drum brakes to disc brakes. If so what do I need to change them over? I can not find brakes shoes for mine. And I can't have them relined because they are wore down into the metal. Any help would be appriciated.
Can someone help me?
Here is a good source for antique auto parts.
http://www.kanter.com/my rental property recipes for chicken alfredo
Can someone help me?
Here is a good source for antique auto parts.
http://www.kanter.com/
Brake Change, Set Up Drums To Rotors?
Wondering if is it possible to change the Rear Brakes (Drums) Into Disk Brakes...? and Would the Emergency brake work the same or not... Also what about ABS? system if anyone has done this pls share experience thanks
Brake Change, Set Up Drums To Rotors?
You can convert to Disk, but, it not cheap. The Emergency brake work similar to the Drums. The rear disk have an inner small drum and brake shoes that tighten and hold when the Emergency brake is applied. I have looked at some conversion kits, and, as I said, they not cheap. Not sure about ABS it really not that big a deal if you learn to use Brakes. ABS just for people that freak out and lock their brakes up in certain situations, and ABS can still lock up, they not perfect. You may be able to learn more how this stuff work and get what you need from a Junk yard. This all I really know.
The link just one I find that you may be able to get an idea of cost. There somes Tabs along top, click %26quot;Brakes%26quot;, I did not look.
Brake Change, Set Up Drums To Rotors?
Depends on the application. For some older or performance cars conversion kits are sold to do this very thing. The ABS makes things rather complicated as you'll need ABS hubs for your disc brakes.
My advice would be that unless your going to be spending most of your time in this car at the track that such a conversion is totally not worthwhile. For street use the gains in braking performance will be negligible.
That's a common swap, they make kits for it. google %26quot;Rear disk brake kits%26quot; and your car,, or go to http://www.summitracing.com/ and follow the instructions. yes the rear E-brakes still work the same.
Brake Change, Set Up Drums To Rotors?
You can convert to Disk, but, it not cheap. The Emergency brake work similar to the Drums. The rear disk have an inner small drum and brake shoes that tighten and hold when the Emergency brake is applied. I have looked at some conversion kits, and, as I said, they not cheap. Not sure about ABS it really not that big a deal if you learn to use Brakes. ABS just for people that freak out and lock their brakes up in certain situations, and ABS can still lock up, they not perfect. You may be able to learn more how this stuff work and get what you need from a Junk yard. This all I really know.
The link just one I find that you may be able to get an idea of cost. There somes Tabs along top, click %26quot;Brakes%26quot;, I did not look.
Brake Change, Set Up Drums To Rotors?
Depends on the application. For some older or performance cars conversion kits are sold to do this very thing. The ABS makes things rather complicated as you'll need ABS hubs for your disc brakes.
My advice would be that unless your going to be spending most of your time in this car at the track that such a conversion is totally not worthwhile. For street use the gains in braking performance will be negligible.
That's a common swap, they make kits for it. google %26quot;Rear disk brake kits%26quot; and your car,, or go to http://www.summitracing.com/ and follow the instructions. yes the rear E-brakes still work the same.
1966 Mustang Brake Conversion? Drum to Disc?
If I converted my mustang's old drum brake to new disc brakes using the scarebird kit, do i have to change the mastercylinder too, or can i just keep using it
1966 Mustang Brake Conversion? Drum to Disc?
The front brake portion of the master cylinder is entirely different for drum brakes verses disc brakes, as is the proportional/differential valve.
Also, if they aren't power assisted, the braking effort will actually increase with disk brakes because they aren't self-actuating like drum brakes. The big plus with disk brakes is their resistance to fading due to heat build up in drum brakes.
1966 Mustang Brake Conversion? Drum to Disc?
if you want them power disk brakes you do and if you do get power you have to have a proportioning valve so your rear drums dont lock up
1966 Mustang Brake Conversion? Drum to Disc?
The front brake portion of the master cylinder is entirely different for drum brakes verses disc brakes, as is the proportional/differential valve.
Also, if they aren't power assisted, the braking effort will actually increase with disk brakes because they aren't self-actuating like drum brakes. The big plus with disk brakes is their resistance to fading due to heat build up in drum brakes.
1966 Mustang Brake Conversion? Drum to Disc?
if you want them power disk brakes you do and if you do get power you have to have a proportioning valve so your rear drums dont lock up
Can you change the brakes?
is it possible to change the brakes on a 97 fiesta on the back from drum to disc? and, is it worth it and would it cost alot of money?
Can you change the brakes?
Oh, I had one of these babies, LOVED It. But you don't WANT to change from drum to disc - those fiestas burn the disc rotors out as a hobby, the drums are MUCH more effecient, and that way your parking break won't be messed up.
So, I don't think you can do it.
Can you change the brakes?
maybe, consult ford
You probably could do it...but it would be expensive. Your better off not doing it.
That could be done. It is not worth it though. The Fiesta is sooooo light in weight, it doesn't require rear disc brakes. To me it would be a waste of money.
it would cost alot of money and i think its not even worth the time because it s a pain in the but to do
the kit is about 220 for the cheap one n about 430 for the good kit its easy n it is very much worht it,only takes about 45 minutes per spindle
It can b done but will cost 1000 dollars. trade in the car if 4 wheel disk are important to you.
It would be madness, if you really want better brakes buy some bigger dics and pads for the front.....Go buy an XR2 I think they have disc brakes all round....also check out the Peugeot 205 1.9 Gti it also has dics all around and you'll probably pick one up for the price of new brakepads...one of the best cars ever built a solid hoot to drive...
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/88253鈥?/a>
Are you an automobile engineer, to know the physics of that auto?
Do you have the weight transfer data?
What would be the proper proportional hydralic pressure, between front and back brakes?
Do you know what a proportional valve is? How to install one?
You don't even want to go there! Now, if it were a 3/4 ton truck, it might be possible... but, I still wouldn't!
It's possible, but it'll cost more than it's worth. You'll need the hubs for disc breaks, the rotors, calipers, brake pads, probably longer brake lines (drum lines are typically shorter than disc lines), and applicable mounting bolts and brackets if necessary. You also need to research the braking ratios, on my car it's 80/20 if I remember correctly, the discs doing 80% and the drums doing 20%, but my car also came with optional discs on another trim package designed for the same braking ratio, so a conversion kit for my car is pretty plug %26amp; play. The ratio might need to be different and you may or may not need to or even be able to adjust it. If your car has ABS, then this gets even more costly as you have to get an ABS computer designed for four wheel discs. There's not going to be too much in the way of engineering involved if your model of car ever came with rear disc as an option, typically they make most parts cross-compatible. If no Fiesta ever came with discs, then you're looking at possible engineering so you don't, as one guy mentioned, eat up the rotors.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head, if I think of anything else I'll add to this message.
If the back brakes are too good, the back will lock and try to overtake the front all the time.
Simply - yes you can, but it isnt worth the money.
I had a '96 fiesta, and left them as per manufacturers design. To me, for a small car, with (no offence) small power.... it doesnt seem worth while making that change.
You'd be better off uping the brakes at the front, and getting yourself some better tyres. It would be cheaper, quicker... and you'll notice it more - as you grip the road better.
You could also think about suspension, which would also help the above.
yeah, you can do it without to much hassle, but i wouldnt advise doing it unless your doing one of two things 1) eather changing the engine for something with LOTS of power, or 2) using the car for rallying!
not worth the money doing it, good condition shoes/drums/cylinders and the adjusters working correctly is more than enough for a fiesta. trust me ive run a lot of them
Can you change the brakes?
Oh, I had one of these babies, LOVED It. But you don't WANT to change from drum to disc - those fiestas burn the disc rotors out as a hobby, the drums are MUCH more effecient, and that way your parking break won't be messed up.
So, I don't think you can do it.
Can you change the brakes?
maybe, consult ford
You probably could do it...but it would be expensive. Your better off not doing it.
That could be done. It is not worth it though. The Fiesta is sooooo light in weight, it doesn't require rear disc brakes. To me it would be a waste of money.
it would cost alot of money and i think its not even worth the time because it s a pain in the but to do
the kit is about 220 for the cheap one n about 430 for the good kit its easy n it is very much worht it,only takes about 45 minutes per spindle
It can b done but will cost 1000 dollars. trade in the car if 4 wheel disk are important to you.
It would be madness, if you really want better brakes buy some bigger dics and pads for the front.....Go buy an XR2 I think they have disc brakes all round....also check out the Peugeot 205 1.9 Gti it also has dics all around and you'll probably pick one up for the price of new brakepads...one of the best cars ever built a solid hoot to drive...
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/88253鈥?/a>
Are you an automobile engineer, to know the physics of that auto?
Do you have the weight transfer data?
What would be the proper proportional hydralic pressure, between front and back brakes?
Do you know what a proportional valve is? How to install one?
You don't even want to go there! Now, if it were a 3/4 ton truck, it might be possible... but, I still wouldn't!
It's possible, but it'll cost more than it's worth. You'll need the hubs for disc breaks, the rotors, calipers, brake pads, probably longer brake lines (drum lines are typically shorter than disc lines), and applicable mounting bolts and brackets if necessary. You also need to research the braking ratios, on my car it's 80/20 if I remember correctly, the discs doing 80% and the drums doing 20%, but my car also came with optional discs on another trim package designed for the same braking ratio, so a conversion kit for my car is pretty plug %26amp; play. The ratio might need to be different and you may or may not need to or even be able to adjust it. If your car has ABS, then this gets even more costly as you have to get an ABS computer designed for four wheel discs. There's not going to be too much in the way of engineering involved if your model of car ever came with rear disc as an option, typically they make most parts cross-compatible. If no Fiesta ever came with discs, then you're looking at possible engineering so you don't, as one guy mentioned, eat up the rotors.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head, if I think of anything else I'll add to this message.
If the back brakes are too good, the back will lock and try to overtake the front all the time.
Simply - yes you can, but it isnt worth the money.
I had a '96 fiesta, and left them as per manufacturers design. To me, for a small car, with (no offence) small power.... it doesnt seem worth while making that change.
You'd be better off uping the brakes at the front, and getting yourself some better tyres. It would be cheaper, quicker... and you'll notice it more - as you grip the road better.
You could also think about suspension, which would also help the above.
yeah, you can do it without to much hassle, but i wouldnt advise doing it unless your doing one of two things 1) eather changing the engine for something with LOTS of power, or 2) using the car for rallying!
not worth the money doing it, good condition shoes/drums/cylinders and the adjusters working correctly is more than enough for a fiesta. trust me ive run a lot of them
Brake Drums and shoes???
I just finished installing new brake shoes and brake drums on my truck and it was my very first time changing brakes. Is it normal for everything to be tight because when I put the drum on it seem to be very tight slipping the drums on? I tried to adjust the brake shoes, but it didn't make much of difference.
I put the brake shoes and springs on right, but since it was my first time installing brakes I'm worried that I messed up.
advice maybe???
Brake Drums and shoes???
just make sure you put the large brake shoe to the rear on each wheel, a common mistake that a first timer makes.
Brake Drums and shoes???
It's tricky to adjust the drum brake set up because most all of them have self adjusters now. You can tighten the brakes which you should do until you can't turn the drum by hand anymore. Then you loosen them until they turn. Looseing them is the tricky part. You have to insert a small screwdriver in the adjuster opening to hold the lever off the self adjuster while at same time inserting another screwdriver or brake adjusting tool in the same hole to ratchet the brakes loose. It takes a bit of experimenting to find the right size screw drivers that will fit in there and work and of course you won't be able to look at the adjuster and adjust at same time so you have to do it by feel.
Some trucks ( usually larger trucks ) have a small slot at top to insert a feeler guage to get the adjustment but I'm guessing you're not talking about a 18 wheeler.
typically you need to back the brake shoes off a good bit because as they have adjusted themselves to work with less breaking material on the old shoes. When the drums are off you should see a star wheel like device at the bottom of both shoes which end up resting on little arms. You can turn that star wheel with a flat head screw driver that will very gradually allow the shoes come back in and allow the drum to spin freely over the shoes. Don't worry about over doing as they will readjust back to where they need to be on their own
make sure that you didnt switch the primary and secondary shoew positions
very common mistake
if the adjuster is all the way screwed inwards and the wheel cylinder pegs are in far enough(the springs should hold then inwards anyways) then there should be plenty of room for the drums to slip on
if the shoes are still in the outer groove of the circumference of the drums and are not sitting on the flat wear pads of the backing plates- as already pointed out- then this will be the problem alone
check to make sure the shoes are sitting up on the backing plate and not down in the groove, make sure the parking brake is off and make sure the shoes are sitting in the wheel cylinders.
The ONE thing that you should leave to the %26quot;pros %26quot; is the braking system.
OK so now that you have got it back together, you need to %26quot;adjust %26quot; the rear brakes.
To do that you need a brake adjustor tool. Put the car on two jack stands . Put tranny in neutral, engine OFF , so the rear wheels can turn freely. Spin the right rear tire slowly, by hand, while feeling to see if it is turning freely. If it is dragging, you need to %26quot;back off the adjustor wheel %26quot; on the back of the brake plate. There is a hole that you put the adjustor tool into , and crank it up or down, to get the wheel turning freely.
Once you think that the brake is free, get some one to turn the wheel and you apply the brake pedal from inside the car, and see how fast the wheel stops. The wheel should turn well but the brake pedal should stop the wheel quickly.
Do the same process for both rear wheels
. Take the car for a SLOW drive, no more than 20 mph to TEST the brakes. If the brakes are stopping the car well, with no hesitation, good. BUT if the car keeps on rolling, once the brake pedal is pressed hard., the rear brakes need to be tightened up more, by further adjustment on the adjustor mechanisim. Take note of which way the increase /decrease direction is on the adjustor, so you don't wind up doing it twice.
In future, leave the brake work/repairs to a certified technician, who really %26quot; knows %26quot; : what he is doing. The money you save, by doing it yourself, will be peanuts, compared to what it will cost you if the brakes %26quot;fail %26quot; and you kill some one .
Jim B. Toronto.
I put the brake shoes and springs on right, but since it was my first time installing brakes I'm worried that I messed up.
advice maybe???
Brake Drums and shoes???
just make sure you put the large brake shoe to the rear on each wheel, a common mistake that a first timer makes.
Brake Drums and shoes???
It's tricky to adjust the drum brake set up because most all of them have self adjusters now. You can tighten the brakes which you should do until you can't turn the drum by hand anymore. Then you loosen them until they turn. Looseing them is the tricky part. You have to insert a small screwdriver in the adjuster opening to hold the lever off the self adjuster while at same time inserting another screwdriver or brake adjusting tool in the same hole to ratchet the brakes loose. It takes a bit of experimenting to find the right size screw drivers that will fit in there and work and of course you won't be able to look at the adjuster and adjust at same time so you have to do it by feel.
Some trucks ( usually larger trucks ) have a small slot at top to insert a feeler guage to get the adjustment but I'm guessing you're not talking about a 18 wheeler.
typically you need to back the brake shoes off a good bit because as they have adjusted themselves to work with less breaking material on the old shoes. When the drums are off you should see a star wheel like device at the bottom of both shoes which end up resting on little arms. You can turn that star wheel with a flat head screw driver that will very gradually allow the shoes come back in and allow the drum to spin freely over the shoes. Don't worry about over doing as they will readjust back to where they need to be on their own
make sure that you didnt switch the primary and secondary shoew positions
very common mistake
if the adjuster is all the way screwed inwards and the wheel cylinder pegs are in far enough(the springs should hold then inwards anyways) then there should be plenty of room for the drums to slip on
if the shoes are still in the outer groove of the circumference of the drums and are not sitting on the flat wear pads of the backing plates- as already pointed out- then this will be the problem alone
check to make sure the shoes are sitting up on the backing plate and not down in the groove, make sure the parking brake is off and make sure the shoes are sitting in the wheel cylinders.
The ONE thing that you should leave to the %26quot;pros %26quot; is the braking system.
OK so now that you have got it back together, you need to %26quot;adjust %26quot; the rear brakes.
To do that you need a brake adjustor tool. Put the car on two jack stands . Put tranny in neutral, engine OFF , so the rear wheels can turn freely. Spin the right rear tire slowly, by hand, while feeling to see if it is turning freely. If it is dragging, you need to %26quot;back off the adjustor wheel %26quot; on the back of the brake plate. There is a hole that you put the adjustor tool into , and crank it up or down, to get the wheel turning freely.
Once you think that the brake is free, get some one to turn the wheel and you apply the brake pedal from inside the car, and see how fast the wheel stops. The wheel should turn well but the brake pedal should stop the wheel quickly.
Do the same process for both rear wheels
. Take the car for a SLOW drive, no more than 20 mph to TEST the brakes. If the brakes are stopping the car well, with no hesitation, good. BUT if the car keeps on rolling, once the brake pedal is pressed hard., the rear brakes need to be tightened up more, by further adjustment on the adjustor mechanisim. Take note of which way the increase /decrease direction is on the adjustor, so you don't wind up doing it twice.
In future, leave the brake work/repairs to a certified technician, who really %26quot; knows %26quot; : what he is doing. The money you save, by doing it yourself, will be peanuts, compared to what it will cost you if the brakes %26quot;fail %26quot; and you kill some one .
Jim B. Toronto.
92 hatch rear passanger axel making clunk sound?
i just changed my rear drum brakes and i did it all... read the book ,grinded my drumb, and then i drove it and it was fine but then i was taking off and i forgot to release my brakes and now its making noise could i have broken something? oh and are brakea always scraping the drum cause the (R) on does? thanx for looking
92 hatch rear passanger axel making clunk sound?
i own a repair shop,an you need to remove the wheels again ,and check them,i think it might have broken a spring or something that could have come off i there and be causing this to happen,,good luck,i hope this help,s
92 hatch rear passanger axel making clunk sound?
take it to a shop have it checked brakes are not something to be taken lightly,you need to consider other drivers and their safety
May be yes. Can't be sure of what you've broke. Have it checked again.
check the emergency brake cable,it could be stuck,and the emergency arm that hooks on the cable could have cam off.ask for at a nail salon myspace
92 hatch rear passanger axel making clunk sound?
i own a repair shop,an you need to remove the wheels again ,and check them,i think it might have broken a spring or something that could have come off i there and be causing this to happen,,good luck,i hope this help,s
92 hatch rear passanger axel making clunk sound?
take it to a shop have it checked brakes are not something to be taken lightly,you need to consider other drivers and their safety
May be yes. Can't be sure of what you've broke. Have it checked again.
check the emergency brake cable,it could be stuck,and the emergency arm that hooks on the cable could have cam off.
2004 chevy malibu? how much would it cost to change left front brake rotor/drum; loud screeching noise...?
2004 chevy malibu, loud screeching sound, which i think would be the brake rotors/drums, i bought it last april, with 5year warranty, is something like this covered? i need to check but....help!
2004 chevy malibu? how much would it cost to change left front brake rotor/drum; loud screeching noise...?
If its not worn to bad you could have the rotor turned about $10.00/$20.00 I would suggest that you change the break pads as well
2004 chevy malibu? how much would it cost to change left front brake rotor/drum; loud screeching noise...?
If its not worn to bad you could have the rotor turned about $10.00/$20.00 I would suggest that you change the break pads as well
Brakes are sticking with the drums.?
I recently changed the brake shoe for my mazda protege 2000.
After changing the brake shoes now brake looks good.
but one problem remains the same: sometime when starting from the rest,
i feel like my car has stuck somewhere and when i press the accelerator hard,
it suddenly get free with a slight jerk.
It looks like that brakes are sticking with the drums.
Any reason why this is happening? Do i need to get my drums resurfaced ?
One more point: When i am moving in reverse gear and apply parking brakes 2-3 times, i feel like car car is running more freely
without any drag, but once i apply foot brake while moving forward 2-3 times, i again starts feeling that
something is giving resistence to it.
I applied high temperature grease to all specified points inclusing backing plate, parking brake cable and
self adjuster (protege has a different type of adjuster, which is not a star wheel type).
If anyone requires a snapshop of my car's braking system, pls let me know.
Brakes are sticking with the drums.?
Im not familiar with that car but here`s a few things to look at. 1. If your adjuster is all the way in and your still having difficulty getting the drum on you have a problem right there. They may have given you the wrong shoes, check that linings are the same lenght as the old ones if you still have them.2. Also if the linings are of two different lenghts the long one goes to the rear. 3. If you run your finger over the friction surface of the drum and catch a lip on the outside edge, you probably have to replace the drum because the shoes are going out to far causing binding. Turning the drum will only make this condition worse. 4. %26quot;If%26quot; it has a rubber line on the rear these sometimes deteriate and collapse on the inside not allowing the pressure to be released when you let off the brakes.4. Some cars have a large proportioning valve around or under the master cylinder which causes the same problem. Hope this helps. I`ve had all these happen to me. Good Luck.
Brakes are sticking with the drums.?
LETS SEE A PIC THERE MAY BE A LEADING AND A TRAILING SHOE ALSO A PARKING BRAKE CABLE sticking sorry bout the caps
I would venture to say that you need new wheel cylinders on the back as one or both are sticking.
Did you adjust your new shoes to the drum? If your shoes are not properly adjusted to you drums the shoes maybe to close to the drum and cause it to stick.
this might be ur transmission or u might have to change ur brakes and rotors again or u could just go back to where u change them ask them to check if the brakes are working properly and tell them that the car does not stop in time sometimes
BRAKE SHOES SWAPPED FRONT TO REAR.LONG ONE GOES TO REAR.
After changing the brake shoes now brake looks good.
but one problem remains the same: sometime when starting from the rest,
i feel like my car has stuck somewhere and when i press the accelerator hard,
it suddenly get free with a slight jerk.
It looks like that brakes are sticking with the drums.
Any reason why this is happening? Do i need to get my drums resurfaced ?
One more point: When i am moving in reverse gear and apply parking brakes 2-3 times, i feel like car car is running more freely
without any drag, but once i apply foot brake while moving forward 2-3 times, i again starts feeling that
something is giving resistence to it.
I applied high temperature grease to all specified points inclusing backing plate, parking brake cable and
self adjuster (protege has a different type of adjuster, which is not a star wheel type).
If anyone requires a snapshop of my car's braking system, pls let me know.
Brakes are sticking with the drums.?
Im not familiar with that car but here`s a few things to look at. 1. If your adjuster is all the way in and your still having difficulty getting the drum on you have a problem right there. They may have given you the wrong shoes, check that linings are the same lenght as the old ones if you still have them.2. Also if the linings are of two different lenghts the long one goes to the rear. 3. If you run your finger over the friction surface of the drum and catch a lip on the outside edge, you probably have to replace the drum because the shoes are going out to far causing binding. Turning the drum will only make this condition worse. 4. %26quot;If%26quot; it has a rubber line on the rear these sometimes deteriate and collapse on the inside not allowing the pressure to be released when you let off the brakes.4. Some cars have a large proportioning valve around or under the master cylinder which causes the same problem. Hope this helps. I`ve had all these happen to me. Good Luck.
Brakes are sticking with the drums.?
LETS SEE A PIC THERE MAY BE A LEADING AND A TRAILING SHOE ALSO A PARKING BRAKE CABLE sticking sorry bout the caps
I would venture to say that you need new wheel cylinders on the back as one or both are sticking.
Did you adjust your new shoes to the drum? If your shoes are not properly adjusted to you drums the shoes maybe to close to the drum and cause it to stick.
this might be ur transmission or u might have to change ur brakes and rotors again or u could just go back to where u change them ask them to check if the brakes are working properly and tell them that the car does not stop in time sometimes
BRAKE SHOES SWAPPED FRONT TO REAR.LONG ONE GOES TO REAR.
Brake change?
Recently, i mamaged to procure a welll- mantained Austin Healey Sprite. Truth be told, its great; it drives like a charm and all. However, it does have a major flaw: its brakes. you see, the brakes are really old and faded. Therefore, i intend to change them to some brembos which an old friend of mine recommened. The thing is, i`m not sure if the brakes will fit. Also, i wanna change the rear drum brakes to the brembo disk brakes as well. Is this even possible? I`m talking about Singapore here. Thank you.
Brake change?
Rebuild the system you have. New shoes new pads, calipers fix it. Trying to rebuild and change to calipers etc. is a major task. I would think it even more difficult in singapore.
Brake change?
If its cherry restore original brakes and keep car stock. Its value will be unreal in a few years. The stock brakes when in good operating order will work fine.
can't answer your question but my ex has one of those little cars and they are so cute!
Brake change?
Rebuild the system you have. New shoes new pads, calipers fix it. Trying to rebuild and change to calipers etc. is a major task. I would think it even more difficult in singapore.
Brake change?
If its cherry restore original brakes and keep car stock. Its value will be unreal in a few years. The stock brakes when in good operating order will work fine.
can't answer your question but my ex has one of those little cars and they are so cute!
How do you change the brakes on a 1997 Toyota Rav4?
just the 2 back tires...i need to know how to fix the drums?
with what? how? thank you!
How do you change the brakes on a 1997 Toyota Rav4?
remove tire ,some toyota rear brake drums have big phillips screw,bolt to hold drum on during assbly. find brake adj plug in backing plate remove ,try tounadjust brake shoes ,if they are not metal to metal. tap drum between lug studs,couple of good blows it should come off . if not,there is 2 treaded holes in drum ,take a 2 inch #12 bolt tighten 1 slowly then the other ,little by little , ( cation not to over tighten ) easy does ittap the drum between tighten bolts.pay close attentiom how you disasemble.always if your not real sure ,take both drums off first,that way you can look at the side still together to see how to reinstall the side your working on.Please buy a toyota chilton manual,it's a good ideal for all toyota repairs. hope I helped
How do you change the brakes on a 1997 Toyota Rav4?
honestly, drums are a pain even to expericanced mechanics, and brakes are obviosly very important. I would strongly advise you to take it to a repair shop, or at least get the help of a person who has done drum brakes before SUCESSFULLY. Safety is the most important thing.
Since you have never done this before, take it in. If you really want to mess with the brakes e-mail me direct and I will talk you through it........
http://www.tryengineering.org/ask_questi鈥?/a>
I found this website its to ask a engineer, it might help.
with what? how? thank you!
How do you change the brakes on a 1997 Toyota Rav4?
remove tire ,some toyota rear brake drums have big phillips screw,bolt to hold drum on during assbly. find brake adj plug in backing plate remove ,try tounadjust brake shoes ,if they are not metal to metal. tap drum between lug studs,couple of good blows it should come off . if not,there is 2 treaded holes in drum ,take a 2 inch #12 bolt tighten 1 slowly then the other ,little by little , ( cation not to over tighten ) easy does ittap the drum between tighten bolts.pay close attentiom how you disasemble.always if your not real sure ,take both drums off first,that way you can look at the side still together to see how to reinstall the side your working on.Please buy a toyota chilton manual,it's a good ideal for all toyota repairs. hope I helped
How do you change the brakes on a 1997 Toyota Rav4?
honestly, drums are a pain even to expericanced mechanics, and brakes are obviosly very important. I would strongly advise you to take it to a repair shop, or at least get the help of a person who has done drum brakes before SUCESSFULLY. Safety is the most important thing.
Since you have never done this before, take it in. If you really want to mess with the brakes e-mail me direct and I will talk you through it........
http://www.tryengineering.org/ask_questi鈥?/a>
I found this website its to ask a engineer, it might help.
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
I know brake drums are another story, but brake discs are fairly easy.
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Seriously, there are tons of sites out there on how to change brake pads.
Simply googling it will give many sites, some even with videos.
http://www.********.com/lessons/brakesho鈥?/a>
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Just buy a Haynes or a Chilton repair guide. They are full of all kinds of repairs.
this is one of the easiest things to do to a car.
engage parking brake
loosen wheel lugs (dont remove)
jack up car and place on jack stands
remove wheel lugs and wheel
loosen and remove two bolts from brake caliper (varies by car)
remove brake caliper from top (a prying tool may be needed but should ultimately roll towards rear of car from the top.
remove old pads and put on new, you may need to compress the piston depending on wear (to do that remove lid from master cylinder and force piston to fully disengage, taking care not to damage it, a c-clamp and a peice of metal works great)
put everything back on in reverse order starting with the caliper and work your way back.
This one has good photos:
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityour鈥?/a>
www.autozone.commsdn java
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Seriously, there are tons of sites out there on how to change brake pads.
Simply googling it will give many sites, some even with videos.
http://www.********.com/lessons/brakesho鈥?/a>
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Just buy a Haynes or a Chilton repair guide. They are full of all kinds of repairs.
this is one of the easiest things to do to a car.
engage parking brake
loosen wheel lugs (dont remove)
jack up car and place on jack stands
remove wheel lugs and wheel
loosen and remove two bolts from brake caliper (varies by car)
remove brake caliper from top (a prying tool may be needed but should ultimately roll towards rear of car from the top.
remove old pads and put on new, you may need to compress the piston depending on wear (to do that remove lid from master cylinder and force piston to fully disengage, taking care not to damage it, a c-clamp and a peice of metal works great)
put everything back on in reverse order starting with the caliper and work your way back.
This one has good photos:
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityour鈥?/a>
www.autozone.com
Car problem brakes are sticking?
i have a 1990 ford crown vic,i had the rear brakes changed (pads and drums)about a month ago.the brakes are sticking when the car is not in use for a couple of hrs and the car shakes.i tried loosening the brake pads but as soon as i step on the brake pedal the brakes adjusts them selves back to the same position.watch can i do?wath's wrong?
Car problem brakes are sticking?
The parking brake is not releasing.
Car problem brakes are sticking?
if you have drum brakes look in the inspection hole and try to losen the gear.
I would replace all the hardware,springs, hold down pins,etc. clean up the backing plate that the shoes rest on and lube the spots where the shoes make contact with the backing plate.
Car problem brakes are sticking?
The parking brake is not releasing.
Car problem brakes are sticking?
if you have drum brakes look in the inspection hole and try to losen the gear.
I would replace all the hardware,springs, hold down pins,etc. clean up the backing plate that the shoes rest on and lube the spots where the shoes make contact with the backing plate.
What would cause brakes to squeal ONLY when extreme pressure is applied?
I've changed all four of my brakes in both my 98 Chevrolet S10 (2 disc brakes in the front, 2 drums in the back, RWD) and my 2004 Pontiac Montana (2 disc brakes in the front, 2 drums in the back, FWD) and whenever extreme pressure is put on the brakes (such as slamming on brakes, pushing hard on the brakes because there wasn't adequate space to stop, etc.) the brakes squeal. However, if you lightly press on the brakes or add medium pressure (such as coming to a slow stop) there is no sound at all. Both automobiles are two wheel drive, both are V6 engines, and both of their brake pads and shoes have a lot of %26quot;meat%26quot; left. I've added anti-seize compound to both vehicles caliper bolts and other parts of the caliper. I've added no noise to the back of the shims of both pads on both vehicles. I've cleaned both pads and shoes with brake cleaner to remove brake dust. The brake fluid is fine and isn't discolored.
What would cause brakes to squeal ONLY when extreme pressure is applied?
Wow-you covered all the bases.
There must be some kind of disconnect in the system.
What would cause brakes to squeal ONLY when extreme pressure is applied?
glazed rotors from hard braking...have rotors turned...or scuffed or replace...stop braking so hard...give the guy ahead a little room eh!
it is called glazing it happens when your rotor or drum is slick here is what i would do remove the new pads and and use a piece of sand paper *not course* and remove the glazing from the pads along with some brake cleaner clean well and have the rotors machined same with the rear drums take the glazing off the shoes and also machine the drums and clean the shoes don't worry the cleaner will dissipate *dry* off of the shoes .. oh and semi metallic pads and shoes are a best bet hope this helps
you probably have ridges worn into the discs/drumsfrom the old linings. when you push hard on the brakes the shoes and pads move slightly in their mountings. this is nothing to worry about if you can put up with the noise. next time you replace the brakes you could have the rotors %26amp; drums turned, but I would replace with new next time. rotors %26amp; drums wear as well and I cant think of a more important safety item than brakes!.
What would cause brakes to squeal ONLY when extreme pressure is applied?
Wow-you covered all the bases.
There must be some kind of disconnect in the system.
What would cause brakes to squeal ONLY when extreme pressure is applied?
glazed rotors from hard braking...have rotors turned...or scuffed or replace...stop braking so hard...give the guy ahead a little room eh!
it is called glazing it happens when your rotor or drum is slick here is what i would do remove the new pads and and use a piece of sand paper *not course* and remove the glazing from the pads along with some brake cleaner clean well and have the rotors machined same with the rear drums take the glazing off the shoes and also machine the drums and clean the shoes don't worry the cleaner will dissipate *dry* off of the shoes .. oh and semi metallic pads and shoes are a best bet hope this helps
you probably have ridges worn into the discs/drumsfrom the old linings. when you push hard on the brakes the shoes and pads move slightly in their mountings. this is nothing to worry about if you can put up with the noise. next time you replace the brakes you could have the rotors %26amp; drums turned, but I would replace with new next time. rotors %26amp; drums wear as well and I cant think of a more important safety item than brakes!.
72 D100 Drum to Disc Conversion?
i have a 72 Dodge D100 Step side, it has drum brakes and i want to change to disc. been looking at kits but money is tight so i considered going to a pick and pull and finding the parts off of a 73 or newer. i need to know what other parts i will need.
72 D100 Drum to Disc Conversion?
if you can find them get the upper an lower control arms and everything that you can from it ,you also have to change the master cylinder on it,and the booster,i doubt that your going to find many things in the pick and pull that's going to help you on doing this ,there's very little parts left around for that year truck,you also need the front spindles on it,good luck.
72 D100 Drum to Disc Conversion?
if you can find them get the upper an lower control arms and everything that you can from it ,you also have to change the master cylinder on it,and the booster,i doubt that your going to find many things in the pick and pull that's going to help you on doing this ,there's very little parts left around for that year truck,you also need the front spindles on it,good luck.
My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
The reason I looked at my brake fluid was because my brakes were a bit spongy (the pedal went all the way to the floor) the other day (they're fine now, even before I added a little brake fluid). But, when I went to add a little bit of brake fluid to bring the level to the 'maximum level' line I noticed how brown the existing brake fluid was. The new brake fluid was crystal clear. Do I need to change the brake fluid? How often is it suggested to replace the brake fluid?
Also, it was pretty hot the day my brakes went spongy. Could it be due to the brake fluid overheating and not working effectively? I have a 89' Honda Civic HB with non-power disc brakes in the front and drums in the back.
My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
Yes, the brake fluid can need changing just like all of the fluids in your car. If the brakes were spongy you might want to check the master cylinder. If the pads are more than half worn go ahead and do a brake job changing the fluid.
My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
you can at any time flush your brake system. this can be done with rented items from advanced auto.. or auto zone..
or from somebody like Midas or Meineke.
as far as the %26quot;spnoge%26quot; brakes that is not the fluid.. I would look more toward the master cylinder...or power booster..
you could go to one of those shops above if I remember right they give free est...
which would tell you what is wrong with the car then you can decide if you can do the work or not.. if not you know what it will cost you
If you steped on the brake pedal and they were spongey, then were ok the next time you steped on the pedal, is a sign, your brake cylender is going bad. no idea, when it will let go totally, but when the cylender is changed, all four brakes will need to be bled off. sinse fresh brake fluid must be used, after all is said and done, all will have fresh clean brake luid once again
The brake fluid is probably okay. sounds as if you need to have someone help you bleed the break lines; usually when the break pedal feels mushy it is a indication of air in the break lines
Also, it was pretty hot the day my brakes went spongy. Could it be due to the brake fluid overheating and not working effectively? I have a 89' Honda Civic HB with non-power disc brakes in the front and drums in the back.
My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
Yes, the brake fluid can need changing just like all of the fluids in your car. If the brakes were spongy you might want to check the master cylinder. If the pads are more than half worn go ahead and do a brake job changing the fluid.
My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
you can at any time flush your brake system. this can be done with rented items from advanced auto.. or auto zone..
or from somebody like Midas or Meineke.
as far as the %26quot;spnoge%26quot; brakes that is not the fluid.. I would look more toward the master cylinder...or power booster..
you could go to one of those shops above if I remember right they give free est...
which would tell you what is wrong with the car then you can decide if you can do the work or not.. if not you know what it will cost you
If you steped on the brake pedal and they were spongey, then were ok the next time you steped on the pedal, is a sign, your brake cylender is going bad. no idea, when it will let go totally, but when the cylender is changed, all four brakes will need to be bled off. sinse fresh brake fluid must be used, after all is said and done, all will have fresh clean brake luid once again
The brake fluid is probably okay. sounds as if you need to have someone help you bleed the break lines; usually when the break pedal feels mushy it is a indication of air in the break lines
1969 Camaro brakes?
The front brakes are the ones I want to change from drum to disc brakes.
Thanks in advance,
Ralph
1969 Camaro brakes?
the parts off a up to 1988 Olds Cutlass, Grand Prix, Monti Carlo, El Camino should fit. Grab the Rotors, Spindles, Calipers, Hoses, and Master Cylider. The break booster will be helpful. Good Luck. Thanks Fordman, i KNEW i was forgetting something lol
1969 Camaro brakes?
There are numerous kits made for 1st generation F-body. Stainless Steel Brake Corp. makes kits from stock style conversion all the way up to kits with 8 piston calipers. It all depends on how much you want to spend.
Ask Dadforfive if you also need the proportioning valve to go with the disk brakes. Good luck on the Camaro.1 web hosting long hair
Thanks in advance,
Ralph
1969 Camaro brakes?
the parts off a up to 1988 Olds Cutlass, Grand Prix, Monti Carlo, El Camino should fit. Grab the Rotors, Spindles, Calipers, Hoses, and Master Cylider. The break booster will be helpful. Good Luck. Thanks Fordman, i KNEW i was forgetting something lol
1969 Camaro brakes?
There are numerous kits made for 1st generation F-body. Stainless Steel Brake Corp. makes kits from stock style conversion all the way up to kits with 8 piston calipers. It all depends on how much you want to spend.
Ask Dadforfive if you also need the proportioning valve to go with the disk brakes. Good luck on the Camaro.
Vehicle shakes when braking at low & high speeds. Rotors & drums plus brakes machined & changed?
I had rotors and drums turned/machined and changed the front brake pads and rear brake shoes. The problem started after i put in 22' rims at Sears. When it is really cold or raining it does not do it as much. I also installed some rear shackles to drop the truck 2'. It looks a bit low on the drivers side so i am guessing that needs attention. I have also read that i might need to change the alignment camber (i think) in order to realign the wheels since 22' wheels are very difficult to align. I Also read that i might need to change the ball joints since i cannot regrease because the newer vehicles have ball joins that require no regreasing, just change them out and drive on. This is on a 2008 GMC Sierra Single cab W/T with the new body style. I am pretty much fed up and running out of things to look at and money is not something i can afford to throw away right now. HELP!
Vehicle shakes when braking at low %26amp; high speeds. Rotors %26amp; drums plus brakes machined %26amp; changed?
Your problem could be uneven wear from the calipers (brakes) being loose or even just in poor shape from the manufacturer (it happens sometimes). Could also be a faulty wheel hub assembly . . . Our truck has the same problem and we haven't had the money to take care of either problem but we know that either could be it. . . calipers are easy to change, wheel hub assembly is a little harder to do, BUT if these are your problem, it's best to have them looked at soon. Either problem could cause worse more expensive problems, later down the road.
Vehicle shakes when braking at low %26amp; high speeds. Rotors %26amp; drums plus brakes machined %26amp; changed?
I would take it to a tire shop and have them check out the rim. Make sure they(Sears) didn't bend the rim when they were putting on the tires.
(1) tire or wheel out of balance or out of round (2) loose or worn wheel bearings (3) wore tie rod ends (4) worn balljoints (5) excessive wheel runout (6) blister or bump on tire
u may need new rotors turning them does not get rid of warps
Vehicle shakes when braking at low %26amp; high speeds. Rotors %26amp; drums plus brakes machined %26amp; changed?
Your problem could be uneven wear from the calipers (brakes) being loose or even just in poor shape from the manufacturer (it happens sometimes). Could also be a faulty wheel hub assembly . . . Our truck has the same problem and we haven't had the money to take care of either problem but we know that either could be it. . . calipers are easy to change, wheel hub assembly is a little harder to do, BUT if these are your problem, it's best to have them looked at soon. Either problem could cause worse more expensive problems, later down the road.
Vehicle shakes when braking at low %26amp; high speeds. Rotors %26amp; drums plus brakes machined %26amp; changed?
I would take it to a tire shop and have them check out the rim. Make sure they(Sears) didn't bend the rim when they were putting on the tires.
(1) tire or wheel out of balance or out of round (2) loose or worn wheel bearings (3) wore tie rod ends (4) worn balljoints (5) excessive wheel runout (6) blister or bump on tire
u may need new rotors turning them does not get rid of warps
Car brakes when turning right?
We have a 1991 BMW and today my husband changed the brake drums on the car. Now he is not the most mechanic savvy person, but he generally does a good job. He changed everything and said there were no problems. However, when he was on his way home today he noticed that every time he was turning right the car started to decelerate at a fast rate. He said he had to accelerate just to make it around the turns otherwise it felt like the car would come to a complete stop. Now, keep in mind I don't know if the car is actually braking or if it is friction being caused from something that is slowing the car down.
Does anyone know what would be causing this? Or has anyone ever heard of something like this happening? I can't really provide anymore information because that's all he has really told me. The mechanic he generally takes the car to is on vacation and won't be back. So that isn't an option right now.
Car brakes when turning right?
Your life depends on your breaks.
1) If this started after the brake job then that where to look.
2) Have him take off the tires a recheck his work
3) Get a mechanic to look at it . Many times there is no charge for a second opinion by a mechanic.
A brake problem can change your life dramatically in a fraction of a second. Get it checked out ASAP.
Car brakes when turning right?
HI
One thing that comes to mind is did you get the front barren nut on tight. if not maybe the hub is twisting and binding up when he turns right.
good luck
Tim
Does anyone know what would be causing this? Or has anyone ever heard of something like this happening? I can't really provide anymore information because that's all he has really told me. The mechanic he generally takes the car to is on vacation and won't be back. So that isn't an option right now.
Car brakes when turning right?
Your life depends on your breaks.
1) If this started after the brake job then that where to look.
2) Have him take off the tires a recheck his work
3) Get a mechanic to look at it . Many times there is no charge for a second opinion by a mechanic.
A brake problem can change your life dramatically in a fraction of a second. Get it checked out ASAP.
Car brakes when turning right?
HI
One thing that comes to mind is did you get the front barren nut on tight. if not maybe the hub is twisting and binding up when he turns right.
good luck
Tim
Question about drum brake replacement?
when it comes to replace the drum the drum brake , what part do we change? is it the pad only or anything else?
Question about drum brake replacement?
Your question isn't very clear but here goes.
If it's just routine brake wear, then replace the shoes (you might call them pads - don't know which country you're in).
If the drum is worn beyond service limits then replace the drum and shoes.
If any other parts are worn or damaged, the most likely of which is the hydraulic cylinder, then replace that. If the shoes are contaminated with brake fluid then clean the drum and replace the cylinder and the shoes.
Of course, if you mean disc brakes instead...
Question about drum brake replacement?
Much the same as disk brakes. The shoes get replaced, the drums get cut or replaced.
pads,are different from drums.check the pads 1st
the shoes, alot of the times the drums will need replacing or machining and sometimes a spring kit
Mostly just the pad. But it depends on how much the drum is scored and can it be turned to a smooth surface again. Also, sometimes you have to replace the hold downs because they bend and sometimes the star wheel adjuster gets rusty and doesn't work well and needs changing.
You can't tell until it's apart.
you usually just change the brake shoes but there are sometimes you need to change the hardware too like the self adjusters and springs. it,s also a good idea to have the drums turned down too but if they still look good then take some sandpaper and sand the inside of the drums some.
For drum brakes, friction material are called 'shoe'. Those need to be replace. The drum itself need to be measured for thickness to see it they can be re-surfaced, if not they new ones are needed. There are also a lot of springs. Those are changed if needed. Most of the time they are reused.
Drum brakes do not have pads they have shoes.You replace the shoes and if the brake hardware is broken replace them too ie springs hold downs etc.If the drum is scored it should be turned down at a auto machine shop or replaced if the drum is beyond fixing.
Question about drum brake replacement?
Your question isn't very clear but here goes.
If it's just routine brake wear, then replace the shoes (you might call them pads - don't know which country you're in).
If the drum is worn beyond service limits then replace the drum and shoes.
If any other parts are worn or damaged, the most likely of which is the hydraulic cylinder, then replace that. If the shoes are contaminated with brake fluid then clean the drum and replace the cylinder and the shoes.
Of course, if you mean disc brakes instead...
Question about drum brake replacement?
Much the same as disk brakes. The shoes get replaced, the drums get cut or replaced.
pads,are different from drums.check the pads 1st
the shoes, alot of the times the drums will need replacing or machining and sometimes a spring kit
Mostly just the pad. But it depends on how much the drum is scored and can it be turned to a smooth surface again. Also, sometimes you have to replace the hold downs because they bend and sometimes the star wheel adjuster gets rusty and doesn't work well and needs changing.
You can't tell until it's apart.
you usually just change the brake shoes but there are sometimes you need to change the hardware too like the self adjusters and springs. it,s also a good idea to have the drums turned down too but if they still look good then take some sandpaper and sand the inside of the drums some.
For drum brakes, friction material are called 'shoe'. Those need to be replace. The drum itself need to be measured for thickness to see it they can be re-surfaced, if not they new ones are needed. There are also a lot of springs. Those are changed if needed. Most of the time they are reused.
Drum brakes do not have pads they have shoes.You replace the shoes and if the brake hardware is broken replace them too ie springs hold downs etc.If the drum is scored it should be turned down at a auto machine shop or replaced if the drum is beyond fixing.
How to change back brakes on chevy venture?
how do you take drum off of the back wheels of a 2000 chevy venture?is their a trick to it?
How to change back brakes on chevy venture?
smack the face of the drum with a hammer to knock it loose, don't hit the sides
How to change back brakes on chevy venture?
smack the drum with a sledge hammer small don't go all crazy with it but Just a few good wackes and it should come right off with all the rust brok loose
Release the parking brake.
How to change back brakes on chevy venture?
smack the face of the drum with a hammer to knock it loose, don't hit the sides
How to change back brakes on chevy venture?
smack the drum with a sledge hammer small don't go all crazy with it but Just a few good wackes and it should come right off with all the rust brok loose
Release the parking brake.
Is it a bad idea to change the brake pads on your car yourself?
I have a 97 honda civic so I know it's pretty simple. I think they're drum brakes, but I haven't actually checked.
I'm mechanically inclined, and there are ton's of %26quot;how to's%26quot; on line, but what I'm wondering is if it's generally unsafe to do this yourself?
Is it something I should let a mechanic handle?
Is it a bad idea to change the brake pads on your car yourself?
In general, this is a pretty simple task to accomplish yourself. That said, it's not something that you can zip through in 15 minutes. Especially if you've never done it before. As long as you have all the info on the correct procedure, know what parts and tools you'll need, and have the time to do it right there's no reason to be concerned about changing your own brakes.
Is it a bad idea to change the brake pads on your car yourself?
It is perfectly safe and simple. For disc brakes anyways because I have not done drums. Most small cars are discs in front drums on back and you do the fronts 5X as often as the backs. Bigger or more xpensive vehicles generally have all disc brakes. Have fun.
i have done all my cars for the last 10 years.... disk brakes are easier than drums though....
you can do it yourself, i do.it,s not that hard to do. you just have to know what to do.
front is not drums, they are disc. rear is drums. pads go on a rotor, or disc brakes, shoes go in a drum. pads are easy, shoes, not so much.
buy a mid-grade pad, get some brake silencer, or brake quiet, to put on the backside of the pads..... damper for vibration. 1 hr tops if you don't know what you're doing.
its safe and easy.
You can do it yourself easy. Jack up the car and put axle stands under it. Remove both rear drums. Strip one side down ready for new parts then reassemble using the other side as a reference. Easy really.
you can do it just pay attention to how it comes apart the reverse it.
good luck.
If you know what your doing it's completely safe.short hair styles graphics for myspace
I'm mechanically inclined, and there are ton's of %26quot;how to's%26quot; on line, but what I'm wondering is if it's generally unsafe to do this yourself?
Is it something I should let a mechanic handle?
Is it a bad idea to change the brake pads on your car yourself?
In general, this is a pretty simple task to accomplish yourself. That said, it's not something that you can zip through in 15 minutes. Especially if you've never done it before. As long as you have all the info on the correct procedure, know what parts and tools you'll need, and have the time to do it right there's no reason to be concerned about changing your own brakes.
Is it a bad idea to change the brake pads on your car yourself?
It is perfectly safe and simple. For disc brakes anyways because I have not done drums. Most small cars are discs in front drums on back and you do the fronts 5X as often as the backs. Bigger or more xpensive vehicles generally have all disc brakes. Have fun.
i have done all my cars for the last 10 years.... disk brakes are easier than drums though....
you can do it yourself, i do.it,s not that hard to do. you just have to know what to do.
front is not drums, they are disc. rear is drums. pads go on a rotor, or disc brakes, shoes go in a drum. pads are easy, shoes, not so much.
buy a mid-grade pad, get some brake silencer, or brake quiet, to put on the backside of the pads..... damper for vibration. 1 hr tops if you don't know what you're doing.
its safe and easy.
You can do it yourself easy. Jack up the car and put axle stands under it. Remove both rear drums. Strip one side down ready for new parts then reassemble using the other side as a reference. Easy really.
you can do it just pay attention to how it comes apart the reverse it.
good luck.
If you know what your doing it's completely safe.
How to change brake drums for 98' toyota camry?
try the automobile %26quot;how to%26quot; books in %26quot;autozone%26quot;. Also you can buy the drums there and ask the people that work there. Sometimes I buy the parts and take it to a side mechanic to put it on (sometimes it less money that way)..
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairG鈥?/a>
http://www.ehow.com/list_1005.html
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairG鈥?/a>
http://www.ehow.com/list_1005.html
96 cavalier with bad brakes?
I have a 96 cavalier with a 2.2L. and I am having problems with the brakes! Every time I try to stop the rear brakes lock up and then the abs kicks in and the abs continues pumping till you stop. Note: It has drum brakes. I have already taken apart the rear brakes and checked them out all hardware is good, shoes are good, wheel cylinders are good, I.E. at least they are not leaking, I can't tell if they are frozen but I don't think so. I have also completely changed the brake fluid in it hoping this might help some how, but no luck.
Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be?
Thanks!!
Please serious answers only. Thanks.
96 cavalier with bad brakes?
1 ABS and regular brakeing system r 2 differnt things
2 after replaceing 2 wheel sensors at 125 each...I pulled the ABS fuse and put tape on the ABS lite,,,,i learned driving before ABS was invented and think its an added expense to save idiot drivers
3 ABS computer cost a lot 300 to 1200 dollars
96 cavalier with bad brakes?
Ok this is straight out of my brakes class' shop manual.
1. Failed master cylinder.
2. Restricted brake lines preventing fluid to flow to front brakes(check your brake lines).
3. Defective proportioning valve allowing excessive pressure to rear brakes.
4. ABS fault
But again the most likely is a faulty proportioning valve on Drum brakes.
I have to go with Whoa D's answer. I'm thinking bad proportioning valve (or possibly another fault) is causing the rear wheels to lock up. When this happens your EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) is going to start seeing two different wheel speed signals coming from the wheel speed sensors. The rear wheel speed sensors will show a very low speed due to wheel lockup, and the front wheel speed sensors will still show close to actual vehicle speed. This would indicate to the EBCM that there is a wheel slip condition and trigger the EBCM to initiate an ABS stop and engage the ABS system. Just my .02, anyway.
Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be?
Thanks!!
Please serious answers only. Thanks.
96 cavalier with bad brakes?
1 ABS and regular brakeing system r 2 differnt things
2 after replaceing 2 wheel sensors at 125 each...I pulled the ABS fuse and put tape on the ABS lite,,,,i learned driving before ABS was invented and think its an added expense to save idiot drivers
3 ABS computer cost a lot 300 to 1200 dollars
96 cavalier with bad brakes?
Ok this is straight out of my brakes class' shop manual.
1. Failed master cylinder.
2. Restricted brake lines preventing fluid to flow to front brakes(check your brake lines).
3. Defective proportioning valve allowing excessive pressure to rear brakes.
4. ABS fault
But again the most likely is a faulty proportioning valve on Drum brakes.
I have to go with Whoa D's answer. I'm thinking bad proportioning valve (or possibly another fault) is causing the rear wheels to lock up. When this happens your EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) is going to start seeing two different wheel speed signals coming from the wheel speed sensors. The rear wheel speed sensors will show a very low speed due to wheel lockup, and the front wheel speed sensors will still show close to actual vehicle speed. This would indicate to the EBCM that there is a wheel slip condition and trigger the EBCM to initiate an ABS stop and engage the ABS system. Just my .02, anyway.
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
I have to replace my studs cause they broke when getting tire off and i cant take off the drum!! It feels loose but it feels like somethings keeping it from coming off, any suggestions?? Dont know too much and never did this before so any help would be appreciated! It's a 99 jeep wrangler. Thanks!
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
back off the brake shoes--on the backside of the backing plate, there is a slot that you stick a screwdriver or brake adjustment tool through, and spin the adjustment wheel--its a little round wheel with teeth on it --spin it one way it tightens the brakes, the other way it loosens-- you probably have a lip on the brake drums and the shoes are catching on it
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
Big fat head screw driver and a hammer. Try to stick it where the rotor goes around the hub and hit the back side of the drum as you are prying with the screw driver. Ive had to use a crowbar and a hammer to get drums off only thing is dont use a lot of force with the hammer you can hit it hard but dont be using all your energy. There is probably a rust lip on the drum that is catching the brake pads
check to make sure your parking brake/emergency brake (e-brake), not trying to make it sound like your stupid but its one of those mistakes anybody can make, just forgetting to take it off especially if your used to using it everytime you park
i've had trouble getting a drum off before, usually you have to tap the back edge with rubber mallet and that works, don't use a hammer or metal mallet because it can damage the drum itself, start off with light tapping and gradually do it harder while your working your way around the back edge of the drum, so basically rotate the axle while your tapping the back edge so you work your way around the whole drum, don't just tap one spot
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
back off the brake shoes--on the backside of the backing plate, there is a slot that you stick a screwdriver or brake adjustment tool through, and spin the adjustment wheel--its a little round wheel with teeth on it --spin it one way it tightens the brakes, the other way it loosens-- you probably have a lip on the brake drums and the shoes are catching on it
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
Big fat head screw driver and a hammer. Try to stick it where the rotor goes around the hub and hit the back side of the drum as you are prying with the screw driver. Ive had to use a crowbar and a hammer to get drums off only thing is dont use a lot of force with the hammer you can hit it hard but dont be using all your energy. There is probably a rust lip on the drum that is catching the brake pads
check to make sure your parking brake/emergency brake (e-brake), not trying to make it sound like your stupid but its one of those mistakes anybody can make, just forgetting to take it off especially if your used to using it everytime you park
i've had trouble getting a drum off before, usually you have to tap the back edge with rubber mallet and that works, don't use a hammer or metal mallet because it can damage the drum itself, start off with light tapping and gradually do it harder while your working your way around the back edge of the drum, so basically rotate the axle while your tapping the back edge so you work your way around the whole drum, don't just tap one spot
I have a 2000 ford escort and need help with the brakes?
we just changed the brake shoes on the rear of the car, the drum wont fit back on and keeps rubbing up against the pads. how would i fix this?
I have a 2000 ford escort and need help with the brakes?
Take a look at the following guide from Advance Auto Parts:
http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/english鈥?/a>
Your Escort has a Bendix-style rear brake with a self-adjuster at the bottom. The self-adjuster is a two-piece assembly which threads into itself - the spiky geared wheel in the middle of the self-adjuster %26quot;stops%26quot; against a spring-loaded lever that sits on top. Pull the lever back and thread the self-adjuster closed a few threads; then push the shoes together to take up the space you gained. You may have to do this once or twice to get the drum back on.
Once you've got the wheel reinstalled, look on the back side of the brake assembly - at the bottom, you'll see a small rubber plug. Pry this out with a small screwdriver and you'll see the back side of that little wheel. While turning the (car) wheel by hand, use your screwdriver (or a brake adjustment tool, if you have one) to %26quot;click%26quot; the self-adjuster wheel until you can't move the car wheel anymore. Then, use a second tool to push the stop lever out enough to back off the self-adjuster a couple of clicks. This gives you a good baseline adjustment.
Now, you can bleed the system per the advice given in the other answers. There's a pretty decent article with photos showing how to do this at
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automoti鈥?/a> .
Obviously, it takes two people to do this properly.
Good luck!
I have a 2000 ford escort and need help with the brakes?
go to ford and tell then if they can check the car and they will tell you whats wrong and tell them if they could fix it for you
well, obviously you don't have to go to a garage, take the shoes back off and check that the pivot points are not stuck, springs on right and reinstall the shoes and try to put the drum on, other than that, it could be the wrong shoe's I would double check that the part is right for that vehicle.
You have to push the brake cylinder back in - pull the cap off the brake master cylinder to make it a lot easier.
If you opened any of the brake lines you will need to bleed them.
if your shoes fit right , back off on the adjuster , it is the thing that looks like a star. if not that check and see if you have a lip on the drum . going to look rusty. sand it down. dont need to bleed system if you did not open any lines. ceck shoes the linning may be bigger on one half , the larger one goes on the rear towards the back of car.
I have a 2000 ford escort and need help with the brakes?
Take a look at the following guide from Advance Auto Parts:
http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/english鈥?/a>
Your Escort has a Bendix-style rear brake with a self-adjuster at the bottom. The self-adjuster is a two-piece assembly which threads into itself - the spiky geared wheel in the middle of the self-adjuster %26quot;stops%26quot; against a spring-loaded lever that sits on top. Pull the lever back and thread the self-adjuster closed a few threads; then push the shoes together to take up the space you gained. You may have to do this once or twice to get the drum back on.
Once you've got the wheel reinstalled, look on the back side of the brake assembly - at the bottom, you'll see a small rubber plug. Pry this out with a small screwdriver and you'll see the back side of that little wheel. While turning the (car) wheel by hand, use your screwdriver (or a brake adjustment tool, if you have one) to %26quot;click%26quot; the self-adjuster wheel until you can't move the car wheel anymore. Then, use a second tool to push the stop lever out enough to back off the self-adjuster a couple of clicks. This gives you a good baseline adjustment.
Now, you can bleed the system per the advice given in the other answers. There's a pretty decent article with photos showing how to do this at
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automoti鈥?/a> .
Obviously, it takes two people to do this properly.
Good luck!
I have a 2000 ford escort and need help with the brakes?
go to ford and tell then if they can check the car and they will tell you whats wrong and tell them if they could fix it for you
well, obviously you don't have to go to a garage, take the shoes back off and check that the pivot points are not stuck, springs on right and reinstall the shoes and try to put the drum on, other than that, it could be the wrong shoe's I would double check that the part is right for that vehicle.
You have to push the brake cylinder back in - pull the cap off the brake master cylinder to make it a lot easier.
If you opened any of the brake lines you will need to bleed them.
if your shoes fit right , back off on the adjuster , it is the thing that looks like a star. if not that check and see if you have a lip on the drum . going to look rusty. sand it down. dont need to bleed system if you did not open any lines. ceck shoes the linning may be bigger on one half , the larger one goes on the rear towards the back of car.
1997 tahoe brakes not working properly.?
I have been trying to figure out this brake system. First of all, the rear brakes stopped working, there was no fluid at all. I bled the abs unit, adjusted the rear drum brakes, and inspected the lines, finally the rear was working. They are still working and it was fine for awhile. There is a hissing sound when you apply the brake, and it shifts the motor down when you apply the brake. i can hear a vacuum leak under the hood at the back of the motor, but i can't seem to find it. The hissing sound and the way the motor changes when the brake is applied, I'm sure it's a vacuum leak. Anyone have any common problems and have had solutions as to where the leak may be?
1997 tahoe brakes not working properly.?
I gather the brakes are working ok ? Be sure master cylinder is kept full when bleeding. The hissing is definitely the vacuum booster the way you describe the engine stalling and the location of the sound. ABS brakes are bled as regular brakes but some systems require a certain order to bleed them.
1997 tahoe brakes not working properly.?
power brakes use vacuum from the manifold and there is a fat hose that comes from the engine manifold to the brake booster the end of some of these tend to break or crack and need replacing shouldnt be too much money and you can do it in 5 minutes with a pair of pliers if thats where the leak is ..but it sounds like that may be where its coming from
I really cant help you i have no idea what could be going on unless i looked at it myself but you said you bled your brakes and you have abs well some on some makes and i dont know if the tahoe is one of them but some abs units require a scanner so you can actuate the vavle inside the hcu i guess and then you can properly bleed your brakes and really get the air all out you might want to look up the bleeding procedure other than that i have no ideas man
Brake booster leak that's why you can't find it
It is normal when u hear ur brakes hissing its telling you there is compression in the master cylinder and ur brakes are working fine. The Vacuum Leak is probably coming from around the throttle body.get teenagers intrested windows web hosting
1997 tahoe brakes not working properly.?
I gather the brakes are working ok ? Be sure master cylinder is kept full when bleeding. The hissing is definitely the vacuum booster the way you describe the engine stalling and the location of the sound. ABS brakes are bled as regular brakes but some systems require a certain order to bleed them.
1997 tahoe brakes not working properly.?
power brakes use vacuum from the manifold and there is a fat hose that comes from the engine manifold to the brake booster the end of some of these tend to break or crack and need replacing shouldnt be too much money and you can do it in 5 minutes with a pair of pliers if thats where the leak is ..but it sounds like that may be where its coming from
I really cant help you i have no idea what could be going on unless i looked at it myself but you said you bled your brakes and you have abs well some on some makes and i dont know if the tahoe is one of them but some abs units require a scanner so you can actuate the vavle inside the hcu i guess and then you can properly bleed your brakes and really get the air all out you might want to look up the bleeding procedure other than that i have no ideas man
Brake booster leak that's why you can't find it
It is normal when u hear ur brakes hissing its telling you there is compression in the master cylinder and ur brakes are working fine. The Vacuum Leak is probably coming from around the throttle body.
Changing from "drum" to "disc" on 1996 jetta?
The jetta I just bought has a free parts car with it.
It is 4 wheel disc and the one that is driveable
is drums in the back.
Is it hard to drop the whole axle out (its ok, front wheel drive)
and put the one in with the discs?
Also, do I have to run brake lines or anything?
Changing from %26quot;drum%26quot; to %26quot;disc%26quot; on 1996 jetta?
your talking about changing the back from drum to disc? you can but you will need to change the whole hub assembly and probably the line too so it can hook up to the caliper.
It is 4 wheel disc and the one that is driveable
is drums in the back.
Is it hard to drop the whole axle out (its ok, front wheel drive)
and put the one in with the discs?
Also, do I have to run brake lines or anything?
Changing from %26quot;drum%26quot; to %26quot;disc%26quot; on 1996 jetta?
your talking about changing the back from drum to disc? you can but you will need to change the whole hub assembly and probably the line too so it can hook up to the caliper.
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
I also need to change my rear brakes which are drum brakes I don't know if that matters.
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
master cylinder is under hood at the brake pedal...it sends pressure to wheel cylinder to push brake pads against the drum..
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
I'm not quite sure what you are asking here but,
The wheel cylinder is the part that pushes the pads out making them push against the drum to cause friction to make the wheel stop.
WOW YOU SHOULD REALLY REDO YOUR QUESTIONS I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOUR QUESTION IS AND I DONT THINK ANYONE ELSE WILL UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT EITHER. WHAT IS YOUR QUESTION?
if your doing the back wheel cylinder..yes change the shoes and they can check your drum...good luck
to change the wheel cylidenr pop off the drums take off the springs and adjuster then in the back unscrew the fitting take it off and there is 2 bolts hold it on take them off take it out put new one in put the shoes up then springs and stuff and your done
If I am understanding your question correctly your master cylinder is located under the hood (usually on the firewall right in front of the driver.) As for the drum brakes on the rear wheels. Drum brakes are a mechanical brake that is controlled with a series of springs. There is a small slave cylinder (about the size of a roll of quarters) located at the bottom of the brake assembly. If they are in need of fixing go to your local parts house and check to see if they still have the rebuild kit for them. If not you will need to find a complete replacement. The pads usually only have to be changed if you are hearing a metal on metal scraping sound. This sound is caused by a redundancy in the pad itself. When you begin to hear this you usually have several hundred miles before the pad itself wears to a point to which the rivets that hold it together begin wearing grooves into the drum. If the grooves get to deep you will either have to have the drum resurfaced or have it replaced.
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
master cylinder is under hood at the brake pedal...it sends pressure to wheel cylinder to push brake pads against the drum..
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
I'm not quite sure what you are asking here but,
The wheel cylinder is the part that pushes the pads out making them push against the drum to cause friction to make the wheel stop.
WOW YOU SHOULD REALLY REDO YOUR QUESTIONS I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOUR QUESTION IS AND I DONT THINK ANYONE ELSE WILL UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT EITHER. WHAT IS YOUR QUESTION?
if your doing the back wheel cylinder..yes change the shoes and they can check your drum...good luck
to change the wheel cylidenr pop off the drums take off the springs and adjuster then in the back unscrew the fitting take it off and there is 2 bolts hold it on take them off take it out put new one in put the shoes up then springs and stuff and your done
If I am understanding your question correctly your master cylinder is located under the hood (usually on the firewall right in front of the driver.) As for the drum brakes on the rear wheels. Drum brakes are a mechanical brake that is controlled with a series of springs. There is a small slave cylinder (about the size of a roll of quarters) located at the bottom of the brake assembly. If they are in need of fixing go to your local parts house and check to see if they still have the rebuild kit for them. If not you will need to find a complete replacement. The pads usually only have to be changed if you are hearing a metal on metal scraping sound. This sound is caused by a redundancy in the pad itself. When you begin to hear this you usually have several hundred miles before the pad itself wears to a point to which the rivets that hold it together begin wearing grooves into the drum. If the grooves get to deep you will either have to have the drum resurfaced or have it replaced.
How long do brake discs last for?
If I get my brake pads changed before they wear to the brake disc, will I be ok to continue using the same brake discs?
If I removed a wheel... how exactly would I tell if a brake disc is worn? Looks like a big circular dish of silver to me.
(Mine are disc brakes not drum brakes).
Thanks.
How long do brake discs last for?
You'll be fine using existing discs providing they are in a servicable condition, you would be better to have a qualified mechanic take a look, brakes are so important....
disc's can last at least three sets of pads before they need changing. i work in garage in spain over here they dont change discs until they can slice meat, it's not the best thing to do!!
How long do brake discs last for?
If you change your pads before they wear down yes this will stop them damaging the disc.
If you take the wheel off your car and run your finger from the inside of the disc to the outside of the disc and feel no rdieg at the outer edge then your disc is ok. If there is a ridge at the outer edge of the disc you want to query this. If you are not that familiar yourself with brake systems most garages do a free brake inspection, they will be able to tell you if you require new discs.
A disc can also be warped, you would usually notice this by a chuffing noise when driving along, braking or a slight wabble on your steering under braking.
Hope this helps
i change my pads every 3000 miles. but you dont have to. when the pads start squeeking it means that tey are worn. if you see grooves on the discs that means that the worn pads is digging into them.
it all depends on how you use them really. Some people ride the brakes allot and others don't do that at all. You will be able to tell when you need new brakes and if you do need new ones you have to do both sides. There is no getting around just doing one side but you can do the front say one week and the next week doing the rear. That is if you cant pay for all four at the same time. You can call around and see who in your area can look at your brakes for fee and your router as well to see how they are and you can do this as often as you like the service is free. So have them checked ever so often its safer then just waiting tell the pads are gone and you also need to replace your router at the same time and trust me having a place do it is allot of money later. So take care of the brakes by having them checked out for free at a place near you.
Hi no you dont always have to change your disc's run your finger on the face of the disc starting near the middle and working to the edge if there is a bump then your discs are worn and will need either re- facing (grinding the disc flat) or replaceing, if the disc has a blue tint to it it means there has been to much heat on the disc and it needs changing
Preventitive maintenace is key to avoiding break failure. If you own a car, sometimes there is a painted area of your pads that indicate you need to replace the pads or a metal prong that will make your breaks noisy when its time to replace them too. If you own a motorcycle, there is a ridge that will become thinner. You may get 75,000 miles from your discs if you change you pads often and do alot of freeway miles.
~Shawn
Ducati Mechanic
The life of the brake parts can depend on your driving style, if you are hard and late braker for example you can expect the pads to have a shorter life than if you are a smooth progressive braker.
Your discs and pads can last for years and I'm talking ten years or more, I got that out of my last car. Pads are more likely to wear out than discs. It is ok to change the pads and continue with the same discs.
Modern cars will have some sort of warning that the pads are wearing either an electronic light or just a spring arrangement that rubs on the discs and makes a noise to alert you when wear is setting in.
Wear on brakes varies according to the type of car and the type of driving involved. You should always change the pads before they reach the point where the metal section touches the disc. On most modern cars there is some sort of indicator, a simple one being a small metal piece which makes a noise to warn that the pads need changing. The discs usually wear at a much slower rate but need to be inspected for score lines/ridges on the shiny part of the disc. Also the part of the disc where the pads make contact will wear and this will show because it creates quite a ridge on both sides if it. Brakes are not for the unsure mechanic and I advise that you have them inspected at a local garage. If you ask them, most small garages will allow you to watch as your car is inspected.
when you have your brakes serviced, always have your rotors (disc) resurfaced to ensure a nice, flat surface for your new pads... a typical rotor can be resurfaced up to 3 times depending on how much it has been resurfaced... a shop will measure the rotor thickness and make sure it is safe enough to resurface, if it is not, replacement is necessary... easy way to tell if you need new rotors is to feel for deep grooves in the rotor or on the end of the rotor, if you feel a lip on the end, it is replacement time
generally the brake discs or rotors are good for two sets of brake pads. if you have any surging when you are applying your brakes the brake rotors are warped and should be replaced. also if you have any grooves or chips out of your rotors they need replaced. it is possible to resurface the rotors but the cost of new rotors has gone down so much you are better off just buying a new set if yours are worn badly. dont skimp on the brake pads the cheaper ones tend to be more metallic and can be noisy.
There is always a minimum disc thickness quoted ...look in hand book or ask local garage man...
If I removed a wheel... how exactly would I tell if a brake disc is worn? Looks like a big circular dish of silver to me.
(Mine are disc brakes not drum brakes).
Thanks.
How long do brake discs last for?
You'll be fine using existing discs providing they are in a servicable condition, you would be better to have a qualified mechanic take a look, brakes are so important....
disc's can last at least three sets of pads before they need changing. i work in garage in spain over here they dont change discs until they can slice meat, it's not the best thing to do!!
How long do brake discs last for?
If you change your pads before they wear down yes this will stop them damaging the disc.
If you take the wheel off your car and run your finger from the inside of the disc to the outside of the disc and feel no rdieg at the outer edge then your disc is ok. If there is a ridge at the outer edge of the disc you want to query this. If you are not that familiar yourself with brake systems most garages do a free brake inspection, they will be able to tell you if you require new discs.
A disc can also be warped, you would usually notice this by a chuffing noise when driving along, braking or a slight wabble on your steering under braking.
Hope this helps
i change my pads every 3000 miles. but you dont have to. when the pads start squeeking it means that tey are worn. if you see grooves on the discs that means that the worn pads is digging into them.
it all depends on how you use them really. Some people ride the brakes allot and others don't do that at all. You will be able to tell when you need new brakes and if you do need new ones you have to do both sides. There is no getting around just doing one side but you can do the front say one week and the next week doing the rear. That is if you cant pay for all four at the same time. You can call around and see who in your area can look at your brakes for fee and your router as well to see how they are and you can do this as often as you like the service is free. So have them checked ever so often its safer then just waiting tell the pads are gone and you also need to replace your router at the same time and trust me having a place do it is allot of money later. So take care of the brakes by having them checked out for free at a place near you.
Hi no you dont always have to change your disc's run your finger on the face of the disc starting near the middle and working to the edge if there is a bump then your discs are worn and will need either re- facing (grinding the disc flat) or replaceing, if the disc has a blue tint to it it means there has been to much heat on the disc and it needs changing
Preventitive maintenace is key to avoiding break failure. If you own a car, sometimes there is a painted area of your pads that indicate you need to replace the pads or a metal prong that will make your breaks noisy when its time to replace them too. If you own a motorcycle, there is a ridge that will become thinner. You may get 75,000 miles from your discs if you change you pads often and do alot of freeway miles.
~Shawn
Ducati Mechanic
The life of the brake parts can depend on your driving style, if you are hard and late braker for example you can expect the pads to have a shorter life than if you are a smooth progressive braker.
Your discs and pads can last for years and I'm talking ten years or more, I got that out of my last car. Pads are more likely to wear out than discs. It is ok to change the pads and continue with the same discs.
Modern cars will have some sort of warning that the pads are wearing either an electronic light or just a spring arrangement that rubs on the discs and makes a noise to alert you when wear is setting in.
Wear on brakes varies according to the type of car and the type of driving involved. You should always change the pads before they reach the point where the metal section touches the disc. On most modern cars there is some sort of indicator, a simple one being a small metal piece which makes a noise to warn that the pads need changing. The discs usually wear at a much slower rate but need to be inspected for score lines/ridges on the shiny part of the disc. Also the part of the disc where the pads make contact will wear and this will show because it creates quite a ridge on both sides if it. Brakes are not for the unsure mechanic and I advise that you have them inspected at a local garage. If you ask them, most small garages will allow you to watch as your car is inspected.
when you have your brakes serviced, always have your rotors (disc) resurfaced to ensure a nice, flat surface for your new pads... a typical rotor can be resurfaced up to 3 times depending on how much it has been resurfaced... a shop will measure the rotor thickness and make sure it is safe enough to resurface, if it is not, replacement is necessary... easy way to tell if you need new rotors is to feel for deep grooves in the rotor or on the end of the rotor, if you feel a lip on the end, it is replacement time
generally the brake discs or rotors are good for two sets of brake pads. if you have any surging when you are applying your brakes the brake rotors are warped and should be replaced. also if you have any grooves or chips out of your rotors they need replaced. it is possible to resurface the rotors but the cost of new rotors has gone down so much you are better off just buying a new set if yours are worn badly. dont skimp on the brake pads the cheaper ones tend to be more metallic and can be noisy.
There is always a minimum disc thickness quoted ...look in hand book or ask local garage man...
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
I also need to change my rear brakes which are drum brakes I don't know if that matters.
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
if its a wheel cylinder you have to remove the wheel and all brake parts to get to it ,then bleed it back out before you install the brake parts back,if you haven't done this before your better off letting a shop do the brakes,they are a needed thing and only qualified personal should repair them,good luck
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
That will be a wheel cylinder Master cylinder is what makes your breaks work . Wheel cylinders are what moves your break shoes against your break drum to stop the car.
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
if its a wheel cylinder you have to remove the wheel and all brake parts to get to it ,then bleed it back out before you install the brake parts back,if you haven't done this before your better off letting a shop do the brakes,they are a needed thing and only qualified personal should repair them,good luck
Help Please! 2000 Dodge Neon I need to change the cylinder on my rear tires master cylinder or wheel cylinder?
That will be a wheel cylinder Master cylinder is what makes your breaks work . Wheel cylinders are what moves your break shoes against your break drum to stop the car.
How much should it maintenance on my 2004 Ford Escape cost?
I want to change my rear brakes (drum not disc) and get an oil change. How much would this cost and where would it be the cheapest to get this work done?
How much should it maintenance on my 2004 Ford Escape cost?
If I did it, oil change 20.00 for synthetic oil %26amp; filter, 15.00 for me, petrolium oil and filtr 10.00 and 15.00 for me, brakes 75.00 installed I get the brakes, thats w/out the additional hardware, extra new replacement hardware additional 20.00.put on facebook msdn
How much should it maintenance on my 2004 Ford Escape cost?
If I did it, oil change 20.00 for synthetic oil %26amp; filter, 15.00 for me, petrolium oil and filtr 10.00 and 15.00 for me, brakes 75.00 installed I get the brakes, thats w/out the additional hardware, extra new replacement hardware additional 20.00.
I have a brake problem with my 2002 Dodge grand Caravan Sport?
The drivers side front disc brakes keep wearing down and then grinding against the rotors. Both front are evenly worn but the drivers always ruins the rotors. I have changed the front brakes and rotors twice in the last year and hardly drive it. My back drum brakes are close needing to be changed but i can't figure out why the fronts are so bad so often?
Thanks for your help.
I have a brake problem with my 2002 Dodge grand Caravan Sport?
You have a seized caliper on that side. It's pushing the pads in, but not releasing fully. The caliper should be replaced with a quality rebuilt caliper that has a warranty. Just go to a brand name auto parts store for that. While you're at it, you may want to change the flexible brake hoses on BOTH sides in the front. These can swell and cause a similar problem. While it may or may not be totally necessary, it is pretty inexpensive and easy to do so why not?
I have a brake problem with my 2002 Dodge grand Caravan Sport?
ITS AN AMERICAN CAR
The front will always wear down first. When you brake, the car leans forward, more pressure on the front brakes.
Just change the front brakes when they start to wear down and squeak, before they will get to the rotors.
bad caliper.
Sounds like the calipers or sticking. Jack up the front and rotate the wheels by hand, if you hear or feel a dragging sound the calipers or not releasing as they should. The pins that the calipers float on my be bad or need to be greased with a special grease made for this. The piston of the calipers may not be going back in as they should due to trash build up behind them. Metallic pads will last longer. when you replace them.
Thanks for your help.
I have a brake problem with my 2002 Dodge grand Caravan Sport?
You have a seized caliper on that side. It's pushing the pads in, but not releasing fully. The caliper should be replaced with a quality rebuilt caliper that has a warranty. Just go to a brand name auto parts store for that. While you're at it, you may want to change the flexible brake hoses on BOTH sides in the front. These can swell and cause a similar problem. While it may or may not be totally necessary, it is pretty inexpensive and easy to do so why not?
I have a brake problem with my 2002 Dodge grand Caravan Sport?
ITS AN AMERICAN CAR
The front will always wear down first. When you brake, the car leans forward, more pressure on the front brakes.
Just change the front brakes when they start to wear down and squeak, before they will get to the rotors.
bad caliper.
Sounds like the calipers or sticking. Jack up the front and rotate the wheels by hand, if you hear or feel a dragging sound the calipers or not releasing as they should. The pins that the calipers float on my be bad or need to be greased with a special grease made for this. The piston of the calipers may not be going back in as they should due to trash build up behind them. Metallic pads will last longer. when you replace them.
Can anyone (please) give me advice on changing rear brakes and rotors on a 1994 Lexus ES 300?
I need any advice on this. . . I was told that it has rear drums and shoes. I have the rotors and the brake pads but then I was told that about the drums and I don't know what I nned to do now. . ..
Can anyone (please) give me advice on changing rear brakes and rotors on a 1994 Lexus ES 300?
You were told wrong. Lexus has 4 wheel disks. You have the right parts, nothing special about the brakes.
Can anyone (please) give me advice on changing rear brakes and rotors on a 1994 Lexus ES 300?
just take off the wheel and look and all will be made clear
try www.autozone.com/servlet/uibroker
www.painin the exhaust.blogspot.com
Can anyone (please) give me advice on changing rear brakes and rotors on a 1994 Lexus ES 300?
You were told wrong. Lexus has 4 wheel disks. You have the right parts, nothing special about the brakes.
Can anyone (please) give me advice on changing rear brakes and rotors on a 1994 Lexus ES 300?
just take off the wheel and look and all will be made clear
try www.autozone.com/servlet/uibroker
www.painin the exhaust.blogspot.com
How do I change the brakes and hardware kit on my back brakes?
I have a 1985 chevy s-10. 6 cylinder. 2 wheel drive. Standard. I have no idea how to start. I took the drum off and there is a bunch of black gunk and parts just fell everywhere. I bought a hardware kit and a set of shoes. The drum is ok. Does any one know were I can find an instruction manual or explain to me how to do this?
How do I change the brakes and hardware kit on my back brakes?
I would suggest that you get the chilton repair manual for you make and model from your library.It should show you how it all goes together.Another way would be to remove the opposite wheel and brake drum and take a look at it to see how it is in place.
How do I change the brakes and hardware kit on my back brakes?
type into search box
how to replace rear brake shoes
heres one pretty good one
1 if you don't already know how to do brakes, why are you doing them?? Leave a safety item like that to someone who knows what they are doing. Even
#2 IF THERE IS BLACK GUNK (like brake fluid or grease) THEN YOU HAVE A LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER OR REAR axle SEAL THAT NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED BEFORE THE BRAKES ARE REPLACED
take this to someone who knows what they are doing.
How do I change the brakes and hardware kit on my back brakes?
I would suggest that you get the chilton repair manual for you make and model from your library.It should show you how it all goes together.Another way would be to remove the opposite wheel and brake drum and take a look at it to see how it is in place.
How do I change the brakes and hardware kit on my back brakes?
type into search box
how to replace rear brake shoes
heres one pretty good one
1 if you don't already know how to do brakes, why are you doing them?? Leave a safety item like that to someone who knows what they are doing. Even
#2 IF THERE IS BLACK GUNK (like brake fluid or grease) THEN YOU HAVE A LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER OR REAR axle SEAL THAT NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED BEFORE THE BRAKES ARE REPLACED
take this to someone who knows what they are doing.
What would happen if you dont bleed drum brakes right? will master cylinder leak?
i undid the break line to the front driver wheels break cylinder to change it but didnt finish because of a problem so i put it back. fluid had drained when i did, so i know im supposed to bleed it even tho i didnt change it but i didnt bleed it because i thought since the cylinder was leaking the air would come out of the leak. i drove the car then parked it. the next day there was a puddle of break fluid coming from the master cylinder, dont know if it is a coincidence or not bleeding the brakes could do that?
What would happen if you dont bleed drum brakes right? will master cylinder leak?
If you do not bleed the brake lines, when you step on the brakes it will not stop. It may swerve to one side or the other. Whichever one you took off will not be working properly. If it is leaking fluid now, you probably Cross-Threaded the fitting when you put it back on, or you did not tighten it properly. If you cross-threaded it you will have to replace the fitting. It is not a very good idea to work on the Brakes of your car if you are not sure just what you are doing. You can end up in an accident because you may do something wrong.
What would happen if you dont bleed drum brakes right? will master cylinder leak?
Coincidence.
You should not get leaks from not bleeding your brakes. You will get a spongy feeling brake pedal or one that needs to be pumped every time you go to stop.
The leak is probably from a loose fitting that you didn't install right when you replaced it.
Re do the fitting, make sure it is tight, and then, have some one help you bleed the brakes.
You do this by pushing down on the pedal, holding it down, and someone else opening the bleed valve at the wheel, they keep it open until some air and fluid runs out, then they close the bleed valve and THEN you let up on the pedal. Repeat this a few times, until the pedal is hard. You must make sure that the master cylinder is filled each time, because you will lose fluid when you do this. Do not let the fluid level get low in the master cylinder.
Remember, Do not let up on the pedal while the bleed valve is open or it will suck in air. Make sure you close if every time before you let up on the pedal.
Your leak is probably from the fitting being on loose or screwed on crooked, which can happen.
What would happen if you dont bleed drum brakes right? will master cylinder leak?
If you do not bleed the brake lines, when you step on the brakes it will not stop. It may swerve to one side or the other. Whichever one you took off will not be working properly. If it is leaking fluid now, you probably Cross-Threaded the fitting when you put it back on, or you did not tighten it properly. If you cross-threaded it you will have to replace the fitting. It is not a very good idea to work on the Brakes of your car if you are not sure just what you are doing. You can end up in an accident because you may do something wrong.
What would happen if you dont bleed drum brakes right? will master cylinder leak?
Coincidence.
You should not get leaks from not bleeding your brakes. You will get a spongy feeling brake pedal or one that needs to be pumped every time you go to stop.
The leak is probably from a loose fitting that you didn't install right when you replaced it.
Re do the fitting, make sure it is tight, and then, have some one help you bleed the brakes.
You do this by pushing down on the pedal, holding it down, and someone else opening the bleed valve at the wheel, they keep it open until some air and fluid runs out, then they close the bleed valve and THEN you let up on the pedal. Repeat this a few times, until the pedal is hard. You must make sure that the master cylinder is filled each time, because you will lose fluid when you do this. Do not let the fluid level get low in the master cylinder.
Remember, Do not let up on the pedal while the bleed valve is open or it will suck in air. Make sure you close if every time before you let up on the pedal.
Your leak is probably from the fitting being on loose or screwed on crooked, which can happen.
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
I have to replace my studs cause they broke when getting tire off and i cant take off the drum!! It feels loose but it feels like somethings keeping it from coming off, any suggestions?? Dont know too much and never did this before so any help would be appreciated! It's a 99 jeep wrangler. Thanks!
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
it isnt a big deal! the drum ishung on the lip around the center. spray some wd40 on the round circle in the center of the drum face and for good measure around the stud holes. you may need to back off the brake shoes if you havent done so. now give a smack on the drum closest to the front edge but on the side. your trying to create a resinating vibration turn the drum a half turn and do the same. my guess is by this moment the drum has popped free though.
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
They are tough sometimes. Hit it with a hammer several times in between each stud or above the studs and all around. you will see it pop off of the hub a little, then pull it off. Customers get a little anxious when they see me do a brake job and whack it with my 40 oz hammer to get it loose. Trust me, if you are anywhere near accurate with a hammer, you won't hurt anything. If it still won't budge, then on the back of the drum there is a hole for adjustment. Back the shoes off of the inside of the drum since sometimes a big ridge forms inside the drum from years of use.long hair cut girl myspace
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
it isnt a big deal! the drum ishung on the lip around the center. spray some wd40 on the round circle in the center of the drum face and for good measure around the stud holes. you may need to back off the brake shoes if you havent done so. now give a smack on the drum closest to the front edge but on the side. your trying to create a resinating vibration turn the drum a half turn and do the same. my guess is by this moment the drum has popped free though.
Cant remove rear brake drum from wrangler to change studs!!!?
They are tough sometimes. Hit it with a hammer several times in between each stud or above the studs and all around. you will see it pop off of the hub a little, then pull it off. Customers get a little anxious when they see me do a brake job and whack it with my 40 oz hammer to get it loose. Trust me, if you are anywhere near accurate with a hammer, you won't hurt anything. If it still won't budge, then on the back of the drum there is a hole for adjustment. Back the shoes off of the inside of the drum since sometimes a big ridge forms inside the drum from years of use.
How do i remove rear brake drum?
Im a novice at mechanics.I can do small repairs like front brakes,alternator change,water pumps,things like that.I have never changed rear brakes.How do I remove the hub on the rear?is it suppose to just pull off or what.If so it must be really stuck.please help if you can.Its a 95 buick skylark!
How do i remove rear brake drum?
some brake drums will come off easily by just wiggling it and some of them you have to loosen the adjuster or tapping it with a hammer at the sides.good luck
How do i remove rear brake drum?
porkchop its pretty easy on that car model. make sure you dont have the emergency brake pulled 1st, there is a possability you might need to back the brake pads off iff they are too deep in the drum likely not. using a block of wood and a hammer wrap the side of the drum in aprx 3 spots. the wood is to shield the impact to the drum. the drum will likely pop free and be easily slid off. a shot of wd40 around the round center will help a lot. be carefull and wear a dust mask when you do this as brake dust will fly around.
How do i remove rear brake drum?
some brake drums will come off easily by just wiggling it and some of them you have to loosen the adjuster or tapping it with a hammer at the sides.good luck
How do i remove rear brake drum?
porkchop its pretty easy on that car model. make sure you dont have the emergency brake pulled 1st, there is a possability you might need to back the brake pads off iff they are too deep in the drum likely not. using a block of wood and a hammer wrap the side of the drum in aprx 3 spots. the wood is to shield the impact to the drum. the drum will likely pop free and be easily slid off. a shot of wd40 around the round center will help a lot. be carefull and wear a dust mask when you do this as brake dust will fly around.
How do i keep my brake drums from rusting?
i just changed my brake drums, and i would like to know if there's a finish i can put on them to keep them from rusting up like my old ones. they arent painted or anything, they just look nice and clean now and i'd like to keep em that way! ps. winters coming, so i'd like to protect them!
How do i keep my brake drums from rusting?
They have paint at most local auto parts stores just for brake parts. Just clean them and paint.
How do i keep my brake drums from rusting?
Why not just paint them black? That's what I always did and they didn't rust and looked good through the wheels. If you want to keep the look of the metal without the drums rusting, use a good quality clear coat.
We used to coat exhaust manifolds and headers in automatic transmission fluid and let them reach operating temperature to saturate the metal. Worked well at stopping them from rusting.
Hammerite paint is a rust inhibitor and has a metallic finish and it comes in quite a lot of colors which might even match your body work color.
eastwood company has mat clear for them when restoring cars some parts are not painted from factory so i use this mat clear.clean with brake clean first then soap n water dry then clear
Rub salty peanuts on them.
Paint them with an ultra-high temperature paint. Get it at any auto parts store.
How do i keep my brake drums from rusting?
They have paint at most local auto parts stores just for brake parts. Just clean them and paint.
How do i keep my brake drums from rusting?
Why not just paint them black? That's what I always did and they didn't rust and looked good through the wheels. If you want to keep the look of the metal without the drums rusting, use a good quality clear coat.
We used to coat exhaust manifolds and headers in automatic transmission fluid and let them reach operating temperature to saturate the metal. Worked well at stopping them from rusting.
Hammerite paint is a rust inhibitor and has a metallic finish and it comes in quite a lot of colors which might even match your body work color.
eastwood company has mat clear for them when restoring cars some parts are not painted from factory so i use this mat clear.clean with brake clean first then soap n water dry then clear
Rub salty peanuts on them.
Paint them with an ultra-high temperature paint. Get it at any auto parts store.
I have 1997 Pontiac Transport Van. Recently changed brake drums,pads. Low traction light comes on.?
Recently changed brake drums and pads. After releasing the brakes, wheels make a little rattling noise and low traction light comes on and off while driving at a low speed. (When it is fast, I cannot feel it)
I have 1997 Pontiac Transport Van. Recently changed brake drums,pads. Low traction light comes on.?
the rattling might mean you left them loose.
if you here odd noise you shouldnt drive it till you fix it. or youll end up messing something up that will cause more damage.
I have 1997 Pontiac Transport Van. Recently changed brake drums,pads. Low traction light comes on.?
Did you correctly bleed them. You start with the back passenger side, then the back drivers side, then the front pass. side, and then the front drivers side.
drum brakes require adjusting after replacing the brake linings.. on the bottom of the backing plate there is a star wheel adjustor.. you use a brake spoon . insert it into the hole that was covered by a rubber plug.. turn the star wheel until you feel a drag on the drum i turn it so the rear tire turn one half a turn and stops.. front wheels i turn.. ok.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake
read this two times.. buy a brake spoon .and a jack set if you dont have one.. do as i advise and you will stop safely ok.
I have 1997 Pontiac Transport Van. Recently changed brake drums,pads. Low traction light comes on.?
the rattling might mean you left them loose.
if you here odd noise you shouldnt drive it till you fix it. or youll end up messing something up that will cause more damage.
I have 1997 Pontiac Transport Van. Recently changed brake drums,pads. Low traction light comes on.?
Did you correctly bleed them. You start with the back passenger side, then the back drivers side, then the front pass. side, and then the front drivers side.
drum brakes require adjusting after replacing the brake linings.. on the bottom of the backing plate there is a star wheel adjustor.. you use a brake spoon . insert it into the hole that was covered by a rubber plug.. turn the star wheel until you feel a drag on the drum i turn it so the rear tire turn one half a turn and stops.. front wheels i turn.. ok.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake
read this two times.. buy a brake spoon .and a jack set if you dont have one.. do as i advise and you will stop safely ok.
Rear drum to disc swap?
I have a 1993 Honda Civic DX 4 door automatic and I want to change the rear drum brakes to discs, is there a way to do this maybe by getting the rear discs off of another civic of the same year?
Rear drum to disc swap?
First you need to acquire a set of EP3 discs. EL discs for Canadians also will work. The more complete you can buy, the better, low miles is good too. If you build them, which I advise against because its expensive, you need knuckles, the hub and bearings, caliper assembly, wheel sensors and all the bracketry. Regardless, you need Si brake lines and EP3 or DC5 ebrake cables. I believe non abs cars will require a new proportioning valve although I can't confirm this. EX models don't need one, the ABS takes care of it.
Start by doing normal rear end work proceedures, jack the car, stands, pull the wheels.
You don't need too many tools, 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets, a couple other basic tools. If you have ratcheting wrenches, they will come in handy, there's some tight spots.
First, remove the brake lines from the drums. Its up on the wheel well, you'll also need to remove the brake line bracket and save it for the new lines.
Next go into the car and remove the console. Disconnect the e-brake cables from the handle. You'll need to rotate the carrier until the wire comes up out of the slot on the side, then the pin will come out the top. Unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the cable to the underside of the car.
Then you'll need to remove the wheel sensor wires. On the right side, the plug is in the trunk. Pull up the carpet, you'll see a silver cover on the right side, just behind the seats. Pry it up to reveal the connector, unplug it and push it through the hole in the floor. There's also a bracket that holds it under the car, and one that holds it to the UCA. It also helps to undo the bolt that holds the muffler guard in place so you can see what you're doing when you go to put the new one in. Its the guard bolt right next to the sensor bracket. On the left, the harness is above the gas filler neck. Its a tight squeeze, but you can grab it.
With all the connections undone you can now unbolt the knuckle. First, mark the alignment cam so you know where to put it back later. The back bolt on the bottom of the knuckle is eccentric. If you look at it, there's marks on it... mark the one that lines up with the mark on the frame, or use a marker to mark where it goes.
(the red mark in the picture isn't exactly right, but if you look at the cam bolt next to it you'll see the marks I'm referring to)
Using a jack to support the knuckle, remove the UCA bolt first, then the alignment locknut. Once you've got the alignment nut off remove the front lower bolt. The knuckle should swing down now. With a small hammer or a socket handle, knock the alignment cam out. You should have the cam bolt and the big slotted nut. the knuckle should be loose, remove it.
Remove the stock wheel sensor from the drum. Its the oblong shaped thing in on the back that the orange plug is attached to. Remove the bolt then pry it out carefully. You'll need to do the same for the ones on the discs. Put the stock ones from the drums in the discs. Bolt them back in, toss the Si ones.
Everything else is just in reverse order. If you need to install brake lines on the discs, do it beforehand, make sure you use crushwashers with the new lines to prevent leaks. You can also change pads and/or rotors beforehand.
Bolt the lower front bolt in, but not all the way. If you tighten it you won't get the cam back in. Then reinstall the cam, lining up the marks. Install the locknut and keep your marks lined up. Torque the locknut to 43 ft-lbs. Tighten down the front bolt now, also 43 ft-lbs. Then swing the knuckle up and install the UCA bolt. 43 again.
Install the bracket on the brake line with the clip and connect the lines. Bolt the bracket back on the wheel well. No spec... just tight.
Feed the E-brake lines in through the floor. Connect them to the carrier attached to the handle and rebolt them to the floor pan. Don't forget to install the rubber floor seals.
The E-brake on the caliper is the sprung hook on top. Feed the line under the knuckle and through the hole in the bracket, then push the spring down and connect the line. The right side goes on pretty easily, the left is very tight. I found its easier to install if you connect the lines to the caliper first, then connect them to the handle. To connect them to the handle, loosen the adjustment nut as much as possible. Connect the LEFT cable FIRST, then rotate the carrier and connect the right cable.
Reconnect the wheel sensor wires and bolt the brackets down. Test the ebrakes to see if they're engaging by rotating the hub with the handle pulled. If they don't engage, tighten the nut above the carrier until they grab.
Then pump the brakes a couple times to partially fill the new brake lines, you'll need to thoroughly bleed the whole system.
Go gentle on them at first just to make sure everything is ok, and gradually get harder on them... they should work just fine. If you want to make sure they're engaging, use a marker and draw lines on the rotor.... they should be gone once you drive the car.
Estimated time to complete 3-5 hours
Have at it.
If you're real hardcore and you want to have the calipers pressure tested... the line pressure is about 770 psi to the fronts, 170 psi to the rear. This is the EX w/ ABS. I don't know how different the LX/DX proportioning is.
Rear drum to disc swap?
You'll need a 4 wheel disc master cylinder at a minimum. The MC on your car now won't hold enough to power rear discs. Disc brakes require more fluid to move than drum cylinders.
Rear drum to disc swap?
First you need to acquire a set of EP3 discs. EL discs for Canadians also will work. The more complete you can buy, the better, low miles is good too. If you build them, which I advise against because its expensive, you need knuckles, the hub and bearings, caliper assembly, wheel sensors and all the bracketry. Regardless, you need Si brake lines and EP3 or DC5 ebrake cables. I believe non abs cars will require a new proportioning valve although I can't confirm this. EX models don't need one, the ABS takes care of it.
Start by doing normal rear end work proceedures, jack the car, stands, pull the wheels.
You don't need too many tools, 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets, a couple other basic tools. If you have ratcheting wrenches, they will come in handy, there's some tight spots.
First, remove the brake lines from the drums. Its up on the wheel well, you'll also need to remove the brake line bracket and save it for the new lines.
Next go into the car and remove the console. Disconnect the e-brake cables from the handle. You'll need to rotate the carrier until the wire comes up out of the slot on the side, then the pin will come out the top. Unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the cable to the underside of the car.
Then you'll need to remove the wheel sensor wires. On the right side, the plug is in the trunk. Pull up the carpet, you'll see a silver cover on the right side, just behind the seats. Pry it up to reveal the connector, unplug it and push it through the hole in the floor. There's also a bracket that holds it under the car, and one that holds it to the UCA. It also helps to undo the bolt that holds the muffler guard in place so you can see what you're doing when you go to put the new one in. Its the guard bolt right next to the sensor bracket. On the left, the harness is above the gas filler neck. Its a tight squeeze, but you can grab it.
With all the connections undone you can now unbolt the knuckle. First, mark the alignment cam so you know where to put it back later. The back bolt on the bottom of the knuckle is eccentric. If you look at it, there's marks on it... mark the one that lines up with the mark on the frame, or use a marker to mark where it goes.
(the red mark in the picture isn't exactly right, but if you look at the cam bolt next to it you'll see the marks I'm referring to)
Using a jack to support the knuckle, remove the UCA bolt first, then the alignment locknut. Once you've got the alignment nut off remove the front lower bolt. The knuckle should swing down now. With a small hammer or a socket handle, knock the alignment cam out. You should have the cam bolt and the big slotted nut. the knuckle should be loose, remove it.
Remove the stock wheel sensor from the drum. Its the oblong shaped thing in on the back that the orange plug is attached to. Remove the bolt then pry it out carefully. You'll need to do the same for the ones on the discs. Put the stock ones from the drums in the discs. Bolt them back in, toss the Si ones.
Everything else is just in reverse order. If you need to install brake lines on the discs, do it beforehand, make sure you use crushwashers with the new lines to prevent leaks. You can also change pads and/or rotors beforehand.
Bolt the lower front bolt in, but not all the way. If you tighten it you won't get the cam back in. Then reinstall the cam, lining up the marks. Install the locknut and keep your marks lined up. Torque the locknut to 43 ft-lbs. Tighten down the front bolt now, also 43 ft-lbs. Then swing the knuckle up and install the UCA bolt. 43 again.
Install the bracket on the brake line with the clip and connect the lines. Bolt the bracket back on the wheel well. No spec... just tight.
Feed the E-brake lines in through the floor. Connect them to the carrier attached to the handle and rebolt them to the floor pan. Don't forget to install the rubber floor seals.
The E-brake on the caliper is the sprung hook on top. Feed the line under the knuckle and through the hole in the bracket, then push the spring down and connect the line. The right side goes on pretty easily, the left is very tight. I found its easier to install if you connect the lines to the caliper first, then connect them to the handle. To connect them to the handle, loosen the adjustment nut as much as possible. Connect the LEFT cable FIRST, then rotate the carrier and connect the right cable.
Reconnect the wheel sensor wires and bolt the brackets down. Test the ebrakes to see if they're engaging by rotating the hub with the handle pulled. If they don't engage, tighten the nut above the carrier until they grab.
Then pump the brakes a couple times to partially fill the new brake lines, you'll need to thoroughly bleed the whole system.
Go gentle on them at first just to make sure everything is ok, and gradually get harder on them... they should work just fine. If you want to make sure they're engaging, use a marker and draw lines on the rotor.... they should be gone once you drive the car.
Estimated time to complete 3-5 hours
Have at it.
If you're real hardcore and you want to have the calipers pressure tested... the line pressure is about 770 psi to the fronts, 170 psi to the rear. This is the EX w/ ABS. I don't know how different the LX/DX proportioning is.
Rear drum to disc swap?
You'll need a 4 wheel disc master cylinder at a minimum. The MC on your car now won't hold enough to power rear discs. Disc brakes require more fluid to move than drum cylinders.
When to change Brake Disk / Drum?
How many KM?
I got small nissan sunny car.
When to change Brake Disk / Drum?
no need to change unless you've worn the brakes to the point of being metal to metal,other than that the drums should last forever and your dics should be checked when changing the pads for either warping or being worn too thin
When to change Brake Disk / Drum?
You replace these parts only when they are worn out. There are specifications to go by when you measure them; make the comparison when you service them to determine if they need replacement or just resurfacing.
This is not like an oil change which must be done every 3,000 miles. The disk pads or brake shoes will wear differently depending on your style driving or even on their quality.
Disk pads are easier to examine, because they are readily visible, both inside and outside pads. It is easy to judge how much meat you have on both. Wearing them %26quot;too thin%26quot; will score the rotors (create groves), requiring them to be turned (filed by a machine to a smooth/even surface) before replacing the pads. Brake shoes are more difficult, as one needs to remove the tires and drums in order to inspect them. The same principal as the disk/rotors applies that is, don't let then wear down to the metal, which will score the drums, equally requiring them to be turned.
Amount of meat left (usually referred to by mechanics): the thickness of either the rotors or the drums is measured before turning them, in order to assure they have not been worn to below thickness specifications, in which case they must be replaced. One sound I never want to hear (neither you) is the sound of metal against metal, meaning that either pads or shoes are completely worn to the metal, because this causes heavy scoring on either the rotors or the drums. It is a good idea to inspect them if you are not sure at what stage yours are. If replaced properly, brakes ought to last you at least 40,000 miles. On my vehicles I use the Bendix brand pads and shoes which cost more, but are well worth the money.
There is no replacement time table on brake disk's. You replace them when they become damaged either by the brake pads wearing out and scoring or warping of the surface to the point that they can not be re-surfaced. A shop can measure this and determine if replacement is required or if they can be serviced to restore smooth braking.break up with someone you live with howtogethelpwithrent
I got small nissan sunny car.
When to change Brake Disk / Drum?
no need to change unless you've worn the brakes to the point of being metal to metal,other than that the drums should last forever and your dics should be checked when changing the pads for either warping or being worn too thin
When to change Brake Disk / Drum?
You replace these parts only when they are worn out. There are specifications to go by when you measure them; make the comparison when you service them to determine if they need replacement or just resurfacing.
This is not like an oil change which must be done every 3,000 miles. The disk pads or brake shoes will wear differently depending on your style driving or even on their quality.
Disk pads are easier to examine, because they are readily visible, both inside and outside pads. It is easy to judge how much meat you have on both. Wearing them %26quot;too thin%26quot; will score the rotors (create groves), requiring them to be turned (filed by a machine to a smooth/even surface) before replacing the pads. Brake shoes are more difficult, as one needs to remove the tires and drums in order to inspect them. The same principal as the disk/rotors applies that is, don't let then wear down to the metal, which will score the drums, equally requiring them to be turned.
Amount of meat left (usually referred to by mechanics): the thickness of either the rotors or the drums is measured before turning them, in order to assure they have not been worn to below thickness specifications, in which case they must be replaced. One sound I never want to hear (neither you) is the sound of metal against metal, meaning that either pads or shoes are completely worn to the metal, because this causes heavy scoring on either the rotors or the drums. It is a good idea to inspect them if you are not sure at what stage yours are. If replaced properly, brakes ought to last you at least 40,000 miles. On my vehicles I use the Bendix brand pads and shoes which cost more, but are well worth the money.
There is no replacement time table on brake disk's. You replace them when they become damaged either by the brake pads wearing out and scoring or warping of the surface to the point that they can not be re-surfaced. A shop can measure this and determine if replacement is required or if they can be serviced to restore smooth braking.
Brakes for 2002 Ford F150 4WD/ SUP CAB?
I have never changed brakes before but I have a friend who can help me. But I wanted to make sure that's what I need, and any tools I would need if I ever had to change brake pads myself.
What's happening is when I start driving me truck I'm hearing a metallic scraping sound coming from my back driver's side tire. I've heard that there's a pin that contacts the rotor when your brake pad is worn down, could that be it? Do the tires on the back of my truck use brake pads, or is it drum brakes? Also if I were to do this myself what tools would I need? (besides jack, jack stand, torque wrench) Thanks for any help.
Brakes for 2002 Ford F150 4WD/ SUP CAB?
It could be your wear indicator making that noise or it could be your emergency brake not releasing all the way that could cause the noise.
I'm not sure but I believe your rear brakes a drum brakes.
You won't need a torque wrench but you will need a brake spring removal tool, and a
brake hold-down removal tool. Of course you can use a flat head screwdriver to remove these springs but make sure you have plenty of band-aids for when the spring snaps back and catches you.
What's happening is when I start driving me truck I'm hearing a metallic scraping sound coming from my back driver's side tire. I've heard that there's a pin that contacts the rotor when your brake pad is worn down, could that be it? Do the tires on the back of my truck use brake pads, or is it drum brakes? Also if I were to do this myself what tools would I need? (besides jack, jack stand, torque wrench) Thanks for any help.
Brakes for 2002 Ford F150 4WD/ SUP CAB?
It could be your wear indicator making that noise or it could be your emergency brake not releasing all the way that could cause the noise.
I'm not sure but I believe your rear brakes a drum brakes.
You won't need a torque wrench but you will need a brake spring removal tool, and a
brake hold-down removal tool. Of course you can use a flat head screwdriver to remove these springs but make sure you have plenty of band-aids for when the spring snaps back and catches you.
How much will i be to get my rear brakes ( Pads and Drums ) changed?
i have a Ford Galaxy ( 07 ) diesel and i have got a grinding noise from the back right wheel.....i am just trying to find out how much the garage should charge me tomorrow for this?
Any ideas?
How much will i be to get my rear brakes ( Pads and Drums ) changed?
I don't think they have drums I think they have discs.
I would charge about 拢120 for rear back discs and pads but as the car is so new and the grinding is only coming from one wheel then it could be okay to just change the disc on that wheel (probably bring the bill down to 拢100).
This is just an estimate as it depends on the price of the parts.
At a garage you are probably looking about 拢170 - 拢200.
Email for more details if necessary.
EDIT:
gav552001 - It is not always necessary to change in axle pairs as you are taught in main dealers. Upon inspection, If the good brake rotor is okay (not wore down too much %26amp; smooth) then why change it? People also have there discs reground sometimes on a machine to make it right and save money.
When I say that they would be okay to get one changed, I don't mean that, I mean after inspection.
How much will i be to get my rear brakes ( Pads and Drums ) changed?
500 but idk
phone around 3 or 4 garages to get an average figure of cost. Alternatively call or go into your local accessory shop and ask them how much the drum brakes will cost, from this you can work out each mechanics labour costs.
If the noise is constant it might be a wheel bearing rather than brakes.
Autodata lists rear brake pads and discs at 1hr 50 minutes labour.
Rear Discs are about 拢27 Pads are 拢12 without sensors and 拢16 with.
Hope this helps.
Hi there please ignore the one who suggests changing only one side any mechanic/technician knows that with safety critical items such as brakes, steering and suspension you change them in axle pairs, anything else is asking for trouble, as for your noise then it could be a bearing but i wouldn't expect it on an 07 plate unless the mileage is very high, as for the cost that depends on if its manufacturers parts or pattern parts such as mintex or first line and also depends upon the garage you use, im afraid that you will have to ring around but please avoid the fast fit merchants, also again check they have replaced them as a pair by asking to see the originals
Hope that helps
Any ideas?
How much will i be to get my rear brakes ( Pads and Drums ) changed?
I don't think they have drums I think they have discs.
I would charge about 拢120 for rear back discs and pads but as the car is so new and the grinding is only coming from one wheel then it could be okay to just change the disc on that wheel (probably bring the bill down to 拢100).
This is just an estimate as it depends on the price of the parts.
At a garage you are probably looking about 拢170 - 拢200.
Email for more details if necessary.
EDIT:
gav552001 - It is not always necessary to change in axle pairs as you are taught in main dealers. Upon inspection, If the good brake rotor is okay (not wore down too much %26amp; smooth) then why change it? People also have there discs reground sometimes on a machine to make it right and save money.
When I say that they would be okay to get one changed, I don't mean that, I mean after inspection.
How much will i be to get my rear brakes ( Pads and Drums ) changed?
500 but idk
phone around 3 or 4 garages to get an average figure of cost. Alternatively call or go into your local accessory shop and ask them how much the drum brakes will cost, from this you can work out each mechanics labour costs.
If the noise is constant it might be a wheel bearing rather than brakes.
Autodata lists rear brake pads and discs at 1hr 50 minutes labour.
Rear Discs are about 拢27 Pads are 拢12 without sensors and 拢16 with.
Hope this helps.
Hi there please ignore the one who suggests changing only one side any mechanic/technician knows that with safety critical items such as brakes, steering and suspension you change them in axle pairs, anything else is asking for trouble, as for your noise then it could be a bearing but i wouldn't expect it on an 07 plate unless the mileage is very high, as for the cost that depends on if its manufacturers parts or pattern parts such as mintex or first line and also depends upon the garage you use, im afraid that you will have to ring around but please avoid the fast fit merchants, also again check they have replaced them as a pair by asking to see the originals
Hope that helps
Wednesday 21 September 2011
Why am I not getting brake fluid to my rear brakes on a 1995 Dodge B2500 Van with a 3.9l engine.?
Due to someone putting power steering fluid in my brake fluid (master cylinder). I have had to replace my front right caliper and my master cylinder. Yes I have an ABS brake system. I pressurized the new master cylinder before mounting it. We tried to gravity bleed the brakes by having the vehicle on level ground and all 4 bleeder valves opened at each wheel. We could not get any fluid to come out at rear brakes. We closed the rear bleeders and then bled the front brakes individually. They bled fine. We disconnected the brake line underneath the van that was going to rear brakes. No brake fluid. I don't know whether the problem is with the proportioner valve (does it have rubber seals in it that may have swelled up from the power steering fluid?) or do I have to bleed anything on the proportioner valve? I have tried to look up this on the internet and I either have to pay for an answer, which I do not have the money, or have found vague information about having to pressure bleed an ABS system. I'm not very schooled on this topic of ABS systems. I have a little knowledge of car maintenance and repairs, but I know nothing about the entire ABS system. I know how to change brakes and lines and such. I have front brakes, and the brake system light and ABS light has went away (turned off) since putting on the master cylinder. But you would think that not having rear brakes would keep these warning lights on. I have disk brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. I just don't have the money to take it to a mechanic and I start a new job in 5 days. I have to commute 50 miles one way to my new job, and this problem just occurred. We did not replace the front brake lines because we were getting fluid from the bleeders, so are assumption is that the lines are not swelled.
Why am I not getting brake fluid to my rear brakes on a 1995 Dodge B2500 Van with a 3.9l engine.?
the proportioning valve will get off center sometimes when your doing a brake job on them from hitting the brake pedal to hard or not following the right bleeding procedure on it,and sometimes the only way to correct the problem is to replace the valve,that will cause the warning lights to come on as well as cause you to not have any rear brakes on it,good luck.
Why am I not getting brake fluid to my rear brakes on a 1995 Dodge B2500 Van with a 3.9l engine.?
your welcome,those are hard to get brakes back on them once the valve gets off center,good luck on it.
I understand gravitiy feeding not working but you havent tried pumping your brakes and hold down then opening the bleeders? I am not sure if abs makes that impossible but I have always bled brakes by having someone pump and hold the brake pedal while I open the bleeder then close the bleeder. this allows the air to be pushed out and so forth. I keep doing this until I get fluid. One important part is while the bleeder is open the person can not lift their foot off the brake pedal or it will such air back into the line. So keep the foot down until the bleeder is closed.
I would say it is you proportioning valve or the fact that your trying to gravity bleed it just try the old stand by go to the farthest wheel from the master cylinder ( make sure all the bleeders are tight by the way) and have someone in the truck pump the brakes about 4 or 5 times hold them hard crack the bleeder screw hold pressure on the pedal when it goes to the floor the tighten the bleeder screw repeat this till no more bubbles come out make sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder then repeat at each wheel
Why am I not getting brake fluid to my rear brakes on a 1995 Dodge B2500 Van with a 3.9l engine.?
the proportioning valve will get off center sometimes when your doing a brake job on them from hitting the brake pedal to hard or not following the right bleeding procedure on it,and sometimes the only way to correct the problem is to replace the valve,that will cause the warning lights to come on as well as cause you to not have any rear brakes on it,good luck.
Why am I not getting brake fluid to my rear brakes on a 1995 Dodge B2500 Van with a 3.9l engine.?
your welcome,those are hard to get brakes back on them once the valve gets off center,good luck on it.
Report Abuse
I understand gravitiy feeding not working but you havent tried pumping your brakes and hold down then opening the bleeders? I am not sure if abs makes that impossible but I have always bled brakes by having someone pump and hold the brake pedal while I open the bleeder then close the bleeder. this allows the air to be pushed out and so forth. I keep doing this until I get fluid. One important part is while the bleeder is open the person can not lift their foot off the brake pedal or it will such air back into the line. So keep the foot down until the bleeder is closed.
I would say it is you proportioning valve or the fact that your trying to gravity bleed it just try the old stand by go to the farthest wheel from the master cylinder ( make sure all the bleeders are tight by the way) and have someone in the truck pump the brakes about 4 or 5 times hold them hard crack the bleeder screw hold pressure on the pedal when it goes to the floor the tighten the bleeder screw repeat this till no more bubbles come out make sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder then repeat at each wheel
I have a 1994 honda accord lx and im am wanting to change the rotors and i was wondering how?
and im am wanting to change the rotors and i have disk on the front and drum brakes on the rear and what do you haftto do to change the drum brake into a rear disk brake?
I have a 1994 honda accord lx and im am wanting to change the rotors and i was wondering how?
you only need the spindles/calipers/rotors, the control arms are the same except for the sway bar mounts. You will also need to use the ebrake cables since they are different lengths.
I have a 1994 honda accord lx and im am wanting to change the rotors and i was wondering how?
to change rotor
jack up the car
remove the front wheels
remove two bolts behind the calipers and hang them loose
remove screws on the rotor then wobble it out
and install in new one
You'll need special brake tools, some big auto parts stores have free loaners.
You'll also need to turn the rotors and drums so there is no low or high spots. Some auto parts stores do this for free for buying the pads and shoes.
You'll need a micrometer to measure that there is enough metal on the rotors and brake drums. Again most auto parts stores can do this for free.
As for doing the brake job, I recommend buying the correct Chilton's manual for your car. It will give you step by step instructions and pictures. It will also give the correct minimum manufacturer specs to make sure the brakes will work correctly.
By %26quot;Changing the rotors%26quot; do you mean your doing a brake job? To convert to Rear discs is not hard,You only have to replace the upper and lower control arms and the spindle assy on both sides.Why bother?,The OEM Drum is a great unit when working properly.By Google surfing you will be able to find all the parts for a nice job.Good Luck
take it to les schwab and get it professionally done cost about $200 but u get like a 50,000 mile warranty so it might seem a lilttle costly but well worth than doing it yourself
I have a 1994 honda accord lx and im am wanting to change the rotors and i was wondering how?
you only need the spindles/calipers/rotors, the control arms are the same except for the sway bar mounts. You will also need to use the ebrake cables since they are different lengths.
I have a 1994 honda accord lx and im am wanting to change the rotors and i was wondering how?
to change rotor
jack up the car
remove the front wheels
remove two bolts behind the calipers and hang them loose
remove screws on the rotor then wobble it out
and install in new one
You'll need special brake tools, some big auto parts stores have free loaners.
You'll also need to turn the rotors and drums so there is no low or high spots. Some auto parts stores do this for free for buying the pads and shoes.
You'll need a micrometer to measure that there is enough metal on the rotors and brake drums. Again most auto parts stores can do this for free.
As for doing the brake job, I recommend buying the correct Chilton's manual for your car. It will give you step by step instructions and pictures. It will also give the correct minimum manufacturer specs to make sure the brakes will work correctly.
By %26quot;Changing the rotors%26quot; do you mean your doing a brake job? To convert to Rear discs is not hard,You only have to replace the upper and lower control arms and the spindle assy on both sides.Why bother?,The OEM Drum is a great unit when working properly.By Google surfing you will be able to find all the parts for a nice job.Good Luck
take it to les schwab and get it professionally done cost about $200 but u get like a 50,000 mile warranty so it might seem a lilttle costly but well worth than doing it yourself
What do i need to change brake drums or the shoes?
or do i need to change both is for the rear brakes on my honda civic 98 dx
What do i need to change brake drums or the shoes?
unless it has been a very long time, the %26quot;drums%26quot; should be alright. the shoes will need replaced. do one side at a time, therefore you have the other side for reference. there are alot of fancy tools that they want you to buy to do this. however, you can do it with needlenose pliers and screwdrivers. if you have never done this, you may not want to do it. go online to www.autozone.com enter your vehicle and browse their sight. they can give you step by step procedure with visual pictures. good luck
What do i need to change brake drums or the shoes?
If its the rear brakes you need to change them on both rear wheels. You need a drum brake tool (it makes the job a whole lot easier) the brake shoes and new springs
If they can be machined (%26quot;turned down%26quot;), places like Pep Boys still charge only $8 per drum or rotor to turn them down. Once the metal rotor or drum doesn't measure the minimum required thickness, the rotors are simply pulled off once the calipers are removed and replaced with new ones. Like wise for the drums. Simply pull them off and replace with new ones. Wash all new rotors and drums down with hot soapy water and rinse thoroughly.
On the surface of the Honda brake drums there's a threaded screw hole that you have to thread the proper screw into to force the drum off the axle assembly. It will be a metric screw. Some older Hondas require a special front brake rotor removal tool to get the front rotors off.
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.a鈥?/a>
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>
From 24+ years as an auto tech to safely change the brake drums or shoes 2-1/2 hydraulic floor jack.At least two jack stands 2-1/2 ton holding capacity.Four way lug wrench brake spoon, at least one large straight screwdriver , 32 ounce ball pen hammer for rear drums since the drum do rust to the rear axle.
If the vehicle in question has front drums and is two wheel drive which were typical of early model vehicles a front wheel bearing cup removal is necessary. I used a pare of channel lock pliers for this. There will be a carter pin to remove so a pair side cutter pliers will be needed. After front wheel bearing removal and the front drums are off then a front seal removal tool, bearing race removal tool. Last but not least Wheel Bearing cleaning solvent, bearing pressure packing tool and bench vise. If 4-wheel drive don't forget those special tools.
Brake shoes: Brake spring pliers, and brake spring holding power handle plus all the above.
lug wrench ,, spring tool,, hammer,, drum removel bolts(if the drum is stuck) they are 8mm x 125 possibly screwdriver and pliers if there pads go to my 360 page and read the instructions there
Get yourself a Haynes or Chilton manual. That will explain all, plus many more jobs. It is better to follow instructions rather than guess!
Chilton manual is the best
you probably have drum brakes on the back of that so you need to change the rear wheel brake pads and take the drums and have them resurfaced at a local parts store and reinstall them after you get the new pads on. You will also need a brake spoon to adjust the rear pads up so they lightly make contact with the brake drums when everything is finished.how to flirt with your girlfriend nappy hair
What do i need to change brake drums or the shoes?
unless it has been a very long time, the %26quot;drums%26quot; should be alright. the shoes will need replaced. do one side at a time, therefore you have the other side for reference. there are alot of fancy tools that they want you to buy to do this. however, you can do it with needlenose pliers and screwdrivers. if you have never done this, you may not want to do it. go online to www.autozone.com enter your vehicle and browse their sight. they can give you step by step procedure with visual pictures. good luck
What do i need to change brake drums or the shoes?
If its the rear brakes you need to change them on both rear wheels. You need a drum brake tool (it makes the job a whole lot easier) the brake shoes and new springs
If they can be machined (%26quot;turned down%26quot;), places like Pep Boys still charge only $8 per drum or rotor to turn them down. Once the metal rotor or drum doesn't measure the minimum required thickness, the rotors are simply pulled off once the calipers are removed and replaced with new ones. Like wise for the drums. Simply pull them off and replace with new ones. Wash all new rotors and drums down with hot soapy water and rinse thoroughly.
On the surface of the Honda brake drums there's a threaded screw hole that you have to thread the proper screw into to force the drum off the axle assembly. It will be a metric screw. Some older Hondas require a special front brake rotor removal tool to get the front rotors off.
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.a鈥?/a>
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>
From 24+ years as an auto tech to safely change the brake drums or shoes 2-1/2 hydraulic floor jack.At least two jack stands 2-1/2 ton holding capacity.Four way lug wrench brake spoon, at least one large straight screwdriver , 32 ounce ball pen hammer for rear drums since the drum do rust to the rear axle.
If the vehicle in question has front drums and is two wheel drive which were typical of early model vehicles a front wheel bearing cup removal is necessary. I used a pare of channel lock pliers for this. There will be a carter pin to remove so a pair side cutter pliers will be needed. After front wheel bearing removal and the front drums are off then a front seal removal tool, bearing race removal tool. Last but not least Wheel Bearing cleaning solvent, bearing pressure packing tool and bench vise. If 4-wheel drive don't forget those special tools.
Brake shoes: Brake spring pliers, and brake spring holding power handle plus all the above.
lug wrench ,, spring tool,, hammer,, drum removel bolts(if the drum is stuck) they are 8mm x 125 possibly screwdriver and pliers if there pads go to my 360 page and read the instructions there
Get yourself a Haynes or Chilton manual. That will explain all, plus many more jobs. It is better to follow instructions rather than guess!
Chilton manual is the best
you probably have drum brakes on the back of that so you need to change the rear wheel brake pads and take the drums and have them resurfaced at a local parts store and reinstall them after you get the new pads on. You will also need a brake spoon to adjust the rear pads up so they lightly make contact with the brake drums when everything is finished.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)