I decided on changing my rear brakes, when I opened up the drum, the pads were nearly all gone (parts of it was all steel), had to replace one of the wheel cylinders too, well to make the long story short, I replaced the brake shoes, replaced the old wheel cylinder with a new one and tried to bleed the brakes, I used one of those one man brake bleeding bottles with the clear tube, well , I successfully bled the 2 rear brakes and the front brake on the left side, when i tried to bleed the brake on the front right side, the bubbles kept on coming, I must of pumped the brakes about 50 times or more, not at the same time of course, emptied my 40oz wheel cylinder oil, when the car is on, and press on the brakes , there is no pressure, the break pedal will come back up, but there is no pressure what鈥檚 so ever, Im at the end of my wits , any suggestions on what else I could do. Thank you.
94, Toyota tercel
160k
Manual transmission
Ps, the front brakes are still good.
Bleeding brakes, bubbles keep on commin?
I don't understand how you got air in the front brakes when you were only working on the rear brakes, I understand how you got air in the rear brakes but that should not effect the front brakes whatsoever.
Bleeding brakes, bubbles keep on commin?
check brake lines for any possible leaks.
You've still got a leak somewhere, check all the brake lines carefully.
Check the master cylinder for leaks..plus check each break cylinder..you have a leak somewhere from your description.
I am lost, when you opened up the drum the pads were nearly gone but you replaced a wheel cylinder. This question I dont comprehend. You ask as if you have both disc and drum brakes and I have yet to see that in 40 years. I'd take it to a reputable repair facility and have it power bled, figure around 50 bucks and go from there, might be a bad master.
if you are using a bleeder ball ? you shouldn't be pumping the brakes ! If im understanding you,did you mount a bledder ball on top of your master cylinder with it pressurized? try again start at the furthest from the master cylinder,and work your way to the closest. if still no pedal,check the booster and vacume lines
If all the other wheels bled ok you have air getting in on that side somewhere. Follow the line from the master to that wheel. Check any fittings as you come to them, the line, and check the caliper for any wet spots along the rubber boot around the piston.
Try gravity bleeding the right front....place the clear tube on the bleeder valve and place the other end in a jar with some fluid in it...make sure the end is under the fluid level. Crack open the bleeder valve a little to allow fluid to slowly bleed out and keep topping off the master. Let the fluid drain like this for 15-20 minutes, then close the valve. Repeat for the left front...always bleed from the furthest away and gradually going to the closest to the master...I.E. start with right rear, then left....then right front, then left.
Pumping the pedal while bleeding can suck air back into the system or keep producing air bubbles....sometimes better to do it with two people, one to hold constant pressure on the pedal while the other opens and closes the bleeder valve...do not release the pedal at all while opening or closing the bleeder if you use this method.
when you replace the brake shoes, you need to adjust them, otherwise they won't move far enough to reach the drum, before the pedal reaches the floor. as you let up on the pedal, the brake springs pull the shoes back in. they should be self adjusting,- each use of the parking brake SHOULD cause the adjusters to take up some of the slack that is there (if installed correctly). Try working the parking brake a dozen or two times.
bleeding - loosen the bleeder screw, put your thumb over the opening (rubber glove?). have someone pump the brakes for you. pressure will force your thumb away, spraying fluid. your thumb will prevent air from getting in, as they let up the pedal. It seems like bleeding works better, if you can keep the fluid moving faster.
